TomRhere

Items required; 4"X6" post, long as width of vehicle, 2"X4" blocks 12" or so, 2-ton bottle jack, Lenght of good quality hardened chain with atleast 1 grab hook on it. Place 4x6 under bumper, wrap chain around bumper, furthest point obtainable from bend area, running chain under 4x6, Place 2x4's on 4x6 until you have proper height for bottle jack to set on them and under bumper, leaving room for one 2x4 ontop of jack, you want the jack to the straight side of the bent bumper, but near the bend adjust center portion of jack cylinder until it contacts board and bumper, start pumping jack handle, being WHATCHFULL of how things are happening, especially with the jack, repeat as needed by lowering the jack, adding 2x4's and shortening the chain hook as needed. If you pull it to far, reverse the position of jack and chain, Done this on many a bumper, even ones that were made out of real steel, not this heavy gauge sheet metal stuff of '70 and later cars

Went out to garage after work today, and started to do abit of troubleshooting. Slapped in a good battery, and started checking things over. Got good spark, got fuel. Well it's pumping some pretty foul smelling stuff that used to be gasoline, anyways. Kinda sorta offered to fire off once, right after cranking it a bit, stopping, then cranking it over again. She fired, 1 time. Decided to check disty/crank timing, as someone has put new tune-up parts in her at sometime. Disty is way off the mark! So, decided to check into it further, by way of T-belt timing. I was right!!! Someone has put new belts on the engine, and they have them way out of sync. Both cams pointing same direction, and they missed the T-belt timing mark by a mile. Looks like they timed the cams to the 0* mark and not the lll marks. Not Knocking on the guy that did this, as I had problems my 1st time of doing t-belts. But I stuck with it, asked the knowledgable ones here on the board, and I got my '82 running. Seems this person just gave up on it. So sorry for him, but to my good fortune. I'll work on it tomorrow after work, and get her timed right. Pretty sure she'll fire up now. Have to get some fresh go juice first. Also need to get some kerosene for my heater. Garage gets cold quick after sun goes down. I'm not ready for the cold weather yet. It can wait afew more weeks, can't it.

Put many a new T-stat in a vehicle, only to later remove it 'cause it was bad. These things happen. Both of my BRATs run at dead center on the temp gauge, and both have only the electric fan. I removed the mechanical one from the '82. This BRAT also had AC which has been removed. You will need to locate the wiring going the the electric fans motor. You will see where the control relay wires kinda T's into the harness. Un-plug the relay wiring, and put the connectors for the fan wiring back together. Now your electric fan will run as a non-ACed car would. Would check all of your hoses, and the radiator for signs of a pin-hole leak. These leaks are small enough, that you won't always see them, but they will leave traces of the water/anti-freeze solution in the form of some crusty deposits. As for filling the system, I fill the radiator until it stops giving major bubbles of air. Then start engine with cap off, letting it warm up. Add more coolant as needed after the T-stat has opened. You want to have your heater set on max heat when doing this, also. Thinking the little jiggler valve on the T-stat should be at the rear, but not 100% on that. Don't remember how I have either of mine at the moment.

Well' ifin it's a 4WD, I'd look at the driveshaft as a possibility here. Could be bad/worn u-joints. Could be, if car has it, a bad carrier bearing on the driveshaft. This only pertains to a 2-piece driveshaft, though.

Thanks Scott! 1st thing on the to-do list, is to find out why it wouldn't run. Don't know much about it, other than it wouldn't start. Owner didn't want to put anymore money into it, and just left it at the repair shop. Could be something major, could be something simple. Would be the tit's if it was just T-belts. Garage owner said it had low compression, but he didn't really want to go into details much. Just wanted rid of it. Battery is deader than a 200 year old doornail, so I can't even crank-it over until I get another battery. Even if I have to do a re-build of the engine, I have the bigger piece of the puzzle. And the car was only $200.00, then some money to a friend to help go fetch-it. After Miles and I settle-up, I'll only be into it for abit over $100.00. Not to shabby I thinks. If the light is good after work tomorrow, I'll try for some pics and get them up in my photo albulm. But pics ain't on the top of my list right now. Wife's thinking she's going to demand that I fix-it for her. Keeps saying, but what if I decide I like it. Kinda to bad Dear, no Title for one, and I'm only 1/2 owner of the car. So, your out-bid. Don't think she's wanting to accept that idea.

Well,.... between Miles Fox and friends finding it, and me buying it. There now resides,...out in my garage,...an XT-6,...just wishing it was a Turbo model................ I'm getting the engine, clutch assembly stuff. Along with the ECM wiring and what not. Miles is after the suspention, tranny and what not. Shouldn't be much left of it other than the body shell, when we're done. Question.... Anybody ever tried putting the XT dash and Steering wheel set-up, in a 2nd Gen BRAT? Thinking that it really won't be a doable thing, but it would be awesome. Atleast in my humble opinion. Adam, Scott, I'll be asking you guys quite afew questions about the ER-27 engine swap over. Mounting, wiring and such. I'll probally figure most of it out myself, but there's always those little, "Gotcha's". For those who may be wondering. The EA-82 w/Weber will most likely be residing on the sidelines for a while. Atleast untill I can find another worthy body for it, prefferably, a BRAT. Sorry, I'm kinda prejudiced in that aspect. We will probally be selling parts from the body shell. But, It needs to be dismantled first to check out over-all condition of parts. She's in a sad and neglected state. Can't say at the moment what is salvagable. Will keep those interested in body parts, advised of the outcome of the inspection. Been wanting to do this, eversince I ran across Scott's site. Was way tempted to have his BRAT as the wall-paper on the Desk Top. Wife ixnayed that idea, but I still wanted to do what he has done. Now,..... I have another piece of the puzzle. This camper be a "Happy One".

You're asking for quite a few problems in doing so, 'specially if you're a smoker. Spend the money, and have a local sheet-metal fabricator make you a tank that's customed to your demensions, to fit the stock locale. Pricey yes, but safer, by far. I did, for a while, run an extra tank in the trunk of a '66 Falcon I had. Was there just to prove to the Ex-Brother-in-Law, that his cars gas mileage wouldn't be that much improved by draining my tank. One load of Deisel Fuel,(out of the stock located tank), and he quit draining my gas tank. Couldn't figure out what happened to his engine one night after leaving my place. Told him to take a whiff of his portable gas station. I can still hear him screaming! 20 years later. Be safe, and don't do it!

Really depends on how it's bent. Up, down, in, out?!? Big tree and length of chain work for the in, out, type bends. Up, down bends are a bit trickier to do , but can be done. Need good jack, and cribbage wood to support frame. Big tree still comes into effect on some bend it up, down, parts.

Don't know on the Supplier end of it. But I'll be digging out what I can find and get back to you.

Have to dig around out in the garage to be sure. But I do believe I have some of the ribbed/slotted type clamps. How many do you need, large/small?

Subaru stock exhaust is highly restrictive. Anything you can do to it to help improve the flow of exhaust gasses will be an improvement. Depending on what Emissions laws you have, changing out the stock catalytic converter, and stock muffler, for better flowing ones, will be of benefit. And as mentioned in ealier posts here. Swapping on a Weber carbureator, really helps these engines out. Plus, you get better gas mileage, to boot.

Simular problem on my '86 awhile back, and I did loose the headlights completely, after a few black-outs. Found the problem to be at the fuseable link box. The connector to wiring harness side of it, had corroded off. Looking at it, it looked okay. But when I un-bolted the link box and flipped over, there it was, plain as day. New terninal end, and I now have headlights.

http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3890&highlight=power+windows Don't know ifin it will help or not.

Most, if not all, adapter plates are made from aluminum. Not the best choice in my opinion. To answer the question as to how it's done. The plate is thick enough so that when you bolt it on to your lugs, it takes the depth of the lug studs. Now, there are the other stud pattern's lugs in it all ready, so you just bolt your new wheels on to it, like you would a regular wheel stud pattern. Biggest problem with using adapter plates is, they tend to fatigue after a while. Especially if your doing things like Rally Racing. They really don't stand up to the side-load forces aplied to them in that aspect. Ifin they were made of steel, it would be better. But, you really don't want to add aditional un-sprung weight to your ride. The less weight under the springs the better it is for handling, and ride comfort. Been alot of studies done on this. I'm not just spouting words here.

http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo81/Exhaust_side_view Link is to the PS view of the Xcelerator Turbo mufflers I have on mine. 2", true dual, exaust system, built by, me. I've had Turbo mufflers on other vehicles, but they've never sounded as good as these do. Don't really know if it's the muffler itself, or it's being on a Subaru motor. But, MAN,,, do I love the way she talks when I nail the loud pedal. Not as loud as a Harley in a full on hard roll-out in 2nd gear, but she's close.. And I have the Harley owners who will back that statement up. They love the sound of my little Subaru BRAT. Even like the looks of her.

What about cracks on MPFI heads, big enough to let the valve seat come out of the head? haven't tore these done yet, so no clue as to depth of crack. But it's wide at the CC area.

I have a mess of links that be Subaru related. Some you may have already. I don't have the time right now to do it, got to be heading out the door for work. But I will get it to you. I still have a few more to add to the list, also.

Cooling ports on that manifold, are the brass looking things just above the mounting flange. Vacuum ports can be added as needed. Off of the plenum for manifold vacuum. Depending on carb used, you may have some there, but it will have the ported vacuum for the disty anyways.

Have you got this figured out yet? __ Red with Black Red with Yellow | | Red with Blue Pass Side --------------- Driver side of connector ----------- of connector Sorry to take so long in getting this up here. Brain is on vacation somewhere. Wish I was with it, where ever that be. Edit: this is from my '82 BRAT. And it didn't post out exactly as I typed it, but thinking it gets the picture across. 2nd edit: trying to clean it up a bit.

SPFI, or TBI, doesn't care how it's positioned. You just have to pay attention to where your connections will be, along with your TPS, Idle Speed thingy, for future ease of maintenace.

Belt driven fan is always turning, eating HP. Electric fan only turns when it's switched on. When it ain't turning, it's not eating HP. Hence the freeing up, saving, of HP statement. When you are moving the vehicle at roughly 10 MPH, there is enough air movement over the radiator to cool it. So a belt driven fan is pointless above this speed, and it is eating a couple of ponies, our Sube's don't have that many ponies to be wasted.

But I know I could do something with it! Had thoughts on a Sube powered buggy for awhile now. That project will be down the road aways. Got 2 BRATs to do up first. Just get it and do it!!!! You know you want to.

He hasn't said so on here yet, but this is dadeeo's 1st ever Subaru. Thinking an XT-6, even a rusty one, is hella good 1st score. So, he'll be having lots of questions about things that be Subaru. I'm trying to help him, but I'm still a newbie myself. But I'm a learning.

Ummmmmm. Terry, no picture/no link to one either. We be confused here!!!

Just to throw in my opion. Having your 'tenna mounted central in the vehicle is beneficial. The body of it acts like an mild amplifier. Twin 'tennas are better than singles, if you have the match right. Lot of single 'tennas are out there and they be good ones. But match is the key. You can have top of the line everything, but if it ain't matched, you got a lot of expensive junk. I've played with many different set-ups as far as units and 'tennas. Like the Cobra models, but there are other as good. Have an RCA Co-Pilot 40-ch w/side bands as a base, can be used as a mobile as well. Just takes up alot of room in the vehicle, to be a mobile. CB's are better than a cell phone, ( as stated), cause you have more ops for contact that with a cell. Haven't been on that much lately, but there's still alot of people on the air. As stated, it's free communication. All it costs you is the initial investment, no monthly bills. No long distance charges, no out of service crap. Best of all, no tele-marketers. Still finding good CB's in yard sale around the area. Can get them for $10-20 complete. Listen to any Trucker, they'll set you straight on the best of the best. Tell you what to steer clear of, and what not. 86 subaru (Jim) is a trucker, don't know how much he is into CB's. but I know he can find out, easier and faster than most of us.