TomRhere

Ummmm..... Me thinks you might want to check out the Back Yard Boys web site. They be in your neck of the woods. I believe it's ausubaru.com ................Tom

Didn't mention the fact that you would have atleast twice the cost of a new one wrapped up in re-building your old one. Just call your local parts store and check on the cost of new innner and outers, plus boots, and that nasty yuck called lube for them....

That altenator was also known as the S-10 model, and no, I'm not talking about the S 10 truck. Was used on most '72 GM products, and all after '73. First internally regulated GM altenator. Have seen them as high as 120 Amps on certain fully loaded models. Think Cadillac, Buick Electra. and 225's, Olds Delta 88's, Pontiac Gran Prix, and Paresienne(sp). A few that I can think of. I'm looking for one of those myself. Easiest altenator to mount to any motor requiring a charging system. 2 battery + leads, can be spliced together, and the other lead goes to a push-button type switch. Start the engine, quick push on the button, and it be charging. Don't need button switch if your car has the "Idiot light". That wire goes to the 2nd terminal. Really way super easy conversion.........

Not wanting to get into a shouting match here, but... Yea, you can take them apart that way. How do you get them back together? The trunion, (inner cage) has to go on the shaft first, then the snap-ring. What about the outer housing? The little steel ball-bearings, that go in there also? I've re-built a few CV-joints on various makes and models of cars. They aren't for the, "I'm in a hurry " crowd. Takes alot of patience to do one. You can, if you get things lined up right, remove the ball-bearings in there. Then you can remove the outer housing from the shaft. Once that is accomplished, you can then removed the snap-ring and remove the inner cage from the axle. There are only a few manufacturers of CV joints. You have your different wheel and trans ends, but the workings of the joint are done by only a few manufacturers/designers. Just like our beloved Subaru's use a roll pin on the inner joint, others use a cir-clip to do the same. Still others have a bolt-on flange at the tranny. Yes, they are serviceable. But not for the faint of heart. That's one reason they say that they are not serviceable. It's not a job I would want for a 9-5, 5 days a week. Sorry if I stept on any toes here.........................

Checked out that link. Auction had ended, so I e-mailed them about buying the scoop, out right. Got a reply back saying that they had re-listed the hood scoop. Didn't exactly make my day. I just wanted to by a hood scoop, up front, and across the table. Don't want to "bid" on one. In my opinion, they are out to get as much as possible for it, and not interested in a plain jane sale. Looked on JCWhitney's site for one. They had a few, different styles, different materials, what not. Can't believe what they want for the ABS Plastic ones. Sheesh!!! I work in the Plastic Molding Business. I know there ain't more than $3.00 worth of materials in one, and that's molded, trimmed, boxed, shipped, what have you. And they're asking over $50.00 each. I know, I know. free enterprize and all of that. But still...................................... Ok, I'm done venting now.............................................................

Didn't notice that at first, had to do the double take on it. I did notice that the tread on that tire was way iffy, though.....

The Hill-Holder will have to be moved towards the firewall, by atleast the distance between the two mounting holes for it, or just remove it. You'll have to re-bend the front 2 brake lines coming off of the Master Clyinder. Not a lot, but they will interfer with the Disty if you don't. I just carefully tweeked them by hand. Don't want to kink them. The Vacuum Advance unit on the disty will hit the M-C, only allowing 1/2 of the slot for timing purposes. This is not an issue on mine. Was told that the M-C for Auto Wagons are shorter than the ones for the Manuals, don't know for sure. When installing the engine into the vehicle, leave the mounts loose on the engine. This will help you get the studs into the engine cross member. Then you can tighten the mounts to the engine. Before you tighten the stud nuts, make sure that the engine is centered between the frame rails, then tighten the nuts. Not much clearance between cam covers and frame rails, only about 1/4" at the rear. I have the EA-82 radiator in mine, needs some upper mount re-work to do so. But after comparing the EA-82 & EA-81 radiators, there is not really much difference that I can see. Other than where the cap is actually mounted. Haven't looked at the lower mounting pionts, as they are both in vehicles. You will need to lenghten the 2 wires for the Disty going to the coil. Am told that the '85-'86 Disty's are the stand alone type. Meaning only 2 wires to hook-up, nothing else. Please use Shrink-wrap and solder on the splices. It will save you head aches down the road. Use the EA-82 Y-pipe, then whatever you can fit under vehicle for the rest of the exhaust. I fabbed up my own 2" dual system. Not 100% on which pitching stopper is used right now. Thinking it's the EA-81, have to check on it later, and edit it in. The person that originally put this engine in, re-worked the gas pedal cable. Not sure that that has to be done. Thinking that one or the other will fit with no problems. I have to change mine out so it works with the Weber better. Plus I can't put my spare tire in now, it stits against the cable, won't allow it to move. Installing a Weber carb is a whole nother story that is still unfolding. Have hood clearance issues. But I'm working on it. That's about all I can think of at the moment. Will edit in anything I may remember later. Edits: The EA-81 pitching stopper is used on mine. You will need to use the EA-81 4 Spd clutch disc and pilot bearing, as well as the 4 Spd's throw-out bearing. Use the EA-82's flywheel and pressure plate. Above all... Keep the EA-82 flywheel on the engine. Makes doing the T-belts a whole lot easier. The EA-81 flywheel will fit the EA-82 if you drill the mounting holes out bigger. I don't recommend doing that. Have fun, and enjoy the engine afterwards.......Tom

Can't answer the 1 or 2 belt question, don't know what engine you have. But on the tensioners... They should be free spinning, no odd noises. and no wobble side to side. Also check the idler pulley, (it has cogs on it to match the crank and cam pulleys), same check as the idlers.....

Pulled all 4 plugs, and gave them the eyeball. Appears that she's running lean. Re-installed plugs, twisted the FPR up another notch. Drove the long way home, approximately 5 miles. Pulled the plugs again. Looking a bit more towards normal. Twisted the FPR anpther notch, and when for a run down the road, went around 20 miles, 60 MPH average speed. Stopped and pulled plugs, looking even better. One more twist on the FPR. Drove home, and pulled plugs. Looking good! Nice white-ish tan color. Think I'll leave it where it's at for now. I know that a true plug cut, is done by driving a certain speed, shutting off the engine while at speed, then pulling plugs. Kinda hard to do that with the traffic at the time I was doing the tests. I'll try to do it the right way this week end. Had to re-set ignition timing too. This was on the 1st leg of the 20 mile run. Had slight spark knock. No pinging on the way back home. I'm running 87 octane from what ever station I stopped at last, don't remember brand name. Getting Happier!!!!!!............

Getting the same bull from my brother-in-law, (Wife's Sister's Husband). Had a '91 Cavalier I bought cheap. Replaced the head, water pump, put on used a used altenator. Patsy drove it and wanted it. Offered her '91 Sonoma as trade. What the hell, I did it. Now Rodger, complains about all the little squeaks, rattles, what ever. I tell you, that Sonoma ain't no great piece itself. Hell, I had to spend over $120.00, before I could even drive it. Some people just don't appreciate what they have in front of them. I agree with the others. Buy back all the "old, worn-out, bad" parts from him. You know what condition they were in when you sold it to him....

Yep, what they said. Would also check the tightness of the axle nuts. Torque spec is 140 Ft lb +. If they're loose, it can cause swerving to happen, especially on deceleration...

I forgot all about the measurement for the air filter. Measuring down from a straight edge across the fenders, to the top of the bottom filter plate on the Weber, I have 1-7/16" of room. So it don't sound as if the shorter filter will help any. Guess I do have to hole the hood. Then again. I could remove the black phenolic spacer that is under the adapter plates. That would give me about a 1/4" more room. Then get the shorter filter, and see what I can see. Been running ideas of a hood scoop thru my brain. Just can't visualize one that would look good. It would have to be tall in the front, and taper down to the stock hood line at the rear. Kinda like a cowl induction hood scoop, only in reverse. Just can't picture a good looking one. Oh well. As long as it doesn't rain, I'm okay without a hood. Got some way weird looks again while driving around last night. I like it!! Had a guy in a late '70's Camero, breather poking thru the hood, pull up along side of me. Pointed at the breather, gave me a thumbs up, waved and took off. Cool.................

Okay. Wired the choke to a "key-on" hot, it be working now. That will help on these cool mornings. Did have a major time keeping her running this morning, maybe it "was" to lean. Don't know. After doing the choke bit, I let her warm-up. Played with the idle speed and mixture settings a bit more. Had a real nice idle at around 800 rpm's. Played around with the FPR setting while she idled. Let her idle for awhile after setting change to allow the carb to compensate to the changes. Didn't notice anything different asto to much fuel, what not. Didn't seem to change the idle quality any. Really just went with what I handed it. I then went for a test drive. With approximately 2.5 lbs of fuel pressure, she idled good, no stumble. Ran her hard up thru the gears, I'm liking this so far. Ran strong, pulled way better than the Hitachi did. No surging at higher revs like before. Ran for about 5 miles, mashing the pedal as I could, doing the speed limit (55) when I couldn't. Didn't notice any problems. Figured all was good. Got to a turn, took it and pulled off the road. She wouldn't idle, period. Acted like she wasn't getting enough gas. Just plain died under 1000 rpm's. Kept her running, tucked my tail between my legs, and headed to the house. Had to make a stop for some smokes. She still didn't want to idle. Came out of the store, fired her up, and she idled, no problem. WTF!?! Was a little irritated by now. Took a different route home, and just plain gave her hell. No problems. Took what I demanded, idled when I wanted too. I just don't know now. Talk about a tempermental, spoiled BRAT!!! Sheesh!!!! Haven't done a plug cut yet Skip. I'll do that after work tomorrow. Pull them out, look at them real good, put them back in. Drive her this way, look at them. Drive her that way, look at them. See if I can find something out that way. My brain just doesn't want to function properly any more. Never had a car best me like this. A carb swap, should not be this troublesome. Even if I am new to Subaru's, an engine is an engine, a carb is a carb, settings be settings. Or have I gone senile?......

Truly sad news. It is a shame that things like that happen during hunting seasons. Usually 3-4 hunters are killed here in Michigan every year. They always call it "an accidental shooting". I say "BULL". More often than not, the one who does the shooting, just shoots at a noise with no idea of what is making that noise. I have never gone out hunting, mainly just for that reason. Always wanted to try bow hunting. Got all the gear around to do so. Was going to go out after work. Heard on the radio that someone was "accidently" shot and killed while bow hunting. Again, I say "BULL". If you can't clearly see what you're shooting at, why the hell are you shooting. Sounds wreckless to me, so why do they call it accidental? My thoughts and sympathy go out to his family and friends...........

With out the FPR, It wants to flood out, couldn't even start it before I put one in. I'll try setting it to a higher setting, and see what happens. FPR is adjustable in 1/2 lb increments, from 1.5 to 3.5 lbs. As far as holin' the hood, I'd rather not really do that. And I all ready have about an inch of spacer under the carb as is. They sent me a 2 piece adapter, adds up to an inch itself. Plus I have the black phenolic plastic spacer under those. Would lift it but need to float a small loan. Lift-kit = $400.00, 14" or 15" rims = $125.00 or so, new tires for said rims = more money. Which I don't have at the moment. I do have a length of aluminum stock, 1-1/2"X3", and some 3" dia aluminum rod. Could make my own lift, ifin I could figure out the strut mount angle, and such. That would save me some money. Then still have to get tires and rims. Skip, I remember that pic of the air filter from before, I could do that. Have to turn it 90* though, can't fit the spare the way yours is mounted. That is 1/4" aluminum plate for the filter, right? I'll get the straight-edge back out, and see if I have clearence for the stock heigth air filter, and the plates. Who/where did you get the PCV filter from, got a part number? I'll get a plug cut done, and see what I can see. Of course with my eyeballs, seeing is a whole different story. Thanks for the info on the choke power feed. I need to get that done. Today at work, I reran the hoses for the PCV system. Have the D/S one going to the PCV vavle itself. Right now, the P/S hose is just ran up from the cam cover, behind the strut tower and ends in free air. I did have the evap canister plumbed in before, teed into the stock tee in the PVC hose. Maybe that was letting it suck to much air, she seemed better driving home. Haven't yet taken her for a drive yet, and the ride home is less than 1/2 mile. Time to go outside and putter around with her. See what I can do, and what I find out. Will post back with the findings........

I installed a hose barb in where the plug was, across from the fuel inlet on the carb, just like the Hitachi was set-up. I have the FPR, in the feed line to the carb. Had it set at 1.5 lb, raised it to 2.0 lb with no difference, thinking I went back to the 1st setting, during the test drive. On the higher settings, I was getting to much gas to the carb when idleing. could hear it dripping onto the throttle plates. Right now, she idles good at 800 or so rpm according to the dash tach. Smooth, no stummble, no hunting for rpm. Had her idleing at 700 rpm, but she'd stummble a bit when you burped the throttle, or when the fan kicked on. I have a print out of Cameron's Weber info, and followed it in the adjustment of the idle speed and mixture setting. From what source does the choke heater power come from, and what voltage should it be? I have no voltage at the choke at all. Can I just use another "key-hot" circuit? I have the choke adjusted so it won't set right now, until I get the power feed figured out. Got some weird looks, driving the BRAT around with no hood, and a chrome breather sticking up out of the engine bay. :) I laid a straight-edge across the fenders. The front edge of the breather sits 1-1/8" above the fenders. Shorter filter element won't help that much. Guess I do cut a hole in the hood. Still need to re-do the PCV hoses. They're all in place, and hooked up, but no breather on it yet, just open hose. What filter do you guys put on yours? I do need to run new hoses also, old and brittle they be, yes. I'm going to play around with the carb somemore today at work. I'll be back with what I find out. Later....................

Got her running, but I ain't happy. Went out this AM, and tried to start it, she fired off, but wouldn't run. Got to checking things out, and determined I was getting way to much go juice. Went to the local store and got a fuel presure regulator, along with some new vac and fuel hoses. Put all of that in, she fired and idled. Took her outfor a test drive, not impressed. She surges way badly when running thru the gears hard. Ease into the throttle, she'll do what you ask. Just don't try to force it any. The exhaust note has changed dramatically from when the Hitachi was on. Not as throaty, till upper revs. Just doesn't seem to be up to it's potential. Can't see the up-grade in carb not liking the free-flowing 2" exhaust. Just don't seem right to me. I know I have some tweaking to do, but so far, I ain't impressed with this Carb. Haven't played with the ignition timing, nor any major adjustments to the carb, yet.... What should I really be on the look out for? ............................

Don't know much about the Emmisions Tests, but there's been quite afew posts here about them, here and on the old board. What I can remember of them is fresh plugs, clean air filter, and a fresh oil change helps alot. Also a good warmed up engine, as in a long drive right before the testing. There's other stuff too, just don't recall much of it. Try doing a search with either smog or emmisions in the body of the post........

Sure thing Boz... Right after I run it thru the 3000ton press at the shop, I'll send it of to you. :)

I would think it to be doable. Would all depend on the duration/frequency of use as to longevity of the engine. That's true of any engine with nitrous. Slap one of the smaller kits on any engine and YeeeHaaa!! But to much YeeHaa with rampant use becomes Oh S**t. Same is true for an aftermarket turbo or super charger kit. They're fun to have on the engine, just have to be wise in the useage of them. That's one of the reasons that factory turbo equipped engines have lower compression. Helps the engine to last longer, thus taking some of the load of the dealerships as to defect claims. But this is just my opinion......

Skip, that's on my "to-do" list. First check for spark at the coil wire, then check voltage at the coil, working into the interior wiring, and fuse box. Nothing should have shorted out during the install, I had the battery disconnected. Wiring is the same as any '82 BRAT, only the wires from disty to coil have been extended. I did wire the choke heater into the connector for the Hitachi, positive I have the right terminal for it. Maybe it was to much for an old fuse, they do go bad from age. Not saying they blow with age, just get weaker, like my memory. Maybe I'll go back out tonight, after another cup of coffee, and see what I can find..........

Well the weber is on, all hooked up and ready to go. Got a few problems though. First off, the filter sets to high. Clears the top of the fenders by a good inch, at the front edge. Just may wind up and cut that hood scoop hole after all. I know all about the rain, car wash, water in the carb issue. Won't be the first car I've put a hood scoop on. Now for the more of a problem, problem(s). I can't get it to start, doesn't even sound like it's firing at all. Haven't gone into it indepth yet. Here's what I do know. After finishing with the install, I hot wired the fuel pump, just to fill the float bowl, then hooked it back up normal. Tried to start the engine, she'd crank and crank, but no fire. Don't even sound like it wants to fire. I didn't remove anything electrical, other than what was on the Hitachi. I even dribbled a little gas down the carb, still no run. Thought maybe I flooded it during the prime , so I pulled the fuse for my fuel pump, and cranked on it some more. Still no offer of firing off. Did discover something doing that though. I've ran my own fuel pump wiring, didn't work by key. Still have factory wiring in place. Anyways, while I had my fuse out and cranking the engine, the fuel pump ran. Much to my surprize! Pulled the connector off of the FPCU, and cranked some more. Still no run. So now I'm getting a bit discouraged, not to mention a bit POed... Pulled the disty cap, yep the rotor goes around during crank over. I checked to make sure I didn't inadvertantly un-plug anything. All looks good.. Grabbed a cold one and a smoke, sat down and considered the possibilities. Haven't actually checked for spark, yet. Wife called me in for supper. Afterwards I decided to take my frustrations out on our furnace, it needs beat up anyways. Furnance is done, and running like a champ. Wish I could say the same for the BRAT. Anyone have some pointers for me? If I lost spark, that means something fried. What/where should I be looking for? Don't think I'll go out and play with it anymore tonight, unless it's some simple thing I've over looked. Sorry about the lenght of this rant. I had to vent...................

Other than maybe more noticable gear noise from the tranny, only other thing I can think of would be seal problems. Most seals are made to work in a particular type of fluid. Subjecting them to another type of fluid, for extended periods, may cause them to swell, or deteriorate Used to be all trannies, and tranfercases were 80, or 90 gear lube. Then alot went to either 5W30 or 10W30. Now, alot have ATF in them. Not much other than the seals have changed, from what I can tell. Maybe a slight different cut on the gears to reduce gear whine. Never know untill some one tries something, if it will work or not........

That looks tempting to me. 'Specially as the filter on the new Weber sits 1" higher than the hood. They sent me the tall element, need short one..............

Heater problem- You may have inadvertantly knocked the vacuum line off for the heater controls. The flapper doors are vacuum operated. Hesistation/stutter- See above. Could be a vacuum leak. Could be something else, too. Don't really know much about turbo systems. I have a link to some turbo info. Have to see if I can locate it. Will edit it in if I do.......... Here you be... http://www.dune-buggy.com/turbo/index.htm Good reading, in my opinion...........