TomRhere

I would suggest some sort of insulating material between the bracket and line, to prevent chaffing of the line. In running new fuel and brake lines, even running new wiring for lights or whatever, I take a short section of hose and split it lenghtwise, wrap it around the line or wires, then fasten it at that point. When wiring up a trailer, I use garden hose as a conduit for the wires, and staple that to the underside of the floor of the trailer. Saves headaches down the road. Just my .02

1st answer. Sounds as if you need to adjust the clutch cable. from your discription, one would take it as the clutch is not fully releasing. 2nd answer. Does sound like bad motor mount. Easy way to check is to place jack under oil pan, with a block of wood between pan and jack. Raise jack up untill you contact pan, then try lifting engine slightly, repeat -slightly- don't force it up, while watching the mounts for un-wanted movement. Usually, you can spot a bad mount without using a jack, but it helps to find the weak ones. Would also give the pitching stopper link a good looking over. About all I can think of right now.

Have simular problem in the '82. Heavy rain, nose parked facing up-hill, I get a wet driverside floor. Haven't pulled the cowling grill yet, but thinking that either the factory sealing putty came loose, or I have a rust hole in the duct under the cowl. Kinda funny, the Wife's '95 Grand Am does the same thing, only with the nose down-hill. Just one of those things that makes you go Hmmmmmm!!!!

Been alot of discusion on this, back and forth, yea and nay. It helps to have it, no it don't help to have it. As far as engine performance goes. I didn't have to much choice in the decision to remove my cat, it did it itself. So, in order to remedy the "no exaust system" problem. I built my own 2" dual system, no cats, free-flowing turbo mufflers. Don't know if I lost any torque in doing so, but I can say that she'll get up and go. Especially now that the Weber is on her. http://www.discountconverters.com has a 2" dual inlet/outlet converter listed in their online catalog, you have to call for pricing, and I haven't yet. But there's a converter available if you feel the need, or your area requires one. They even have one listed that resembles the stock Subaru one, only with larger inlet/outlet, thinking it's 2" also. Can say that the stock Subaru exhaust system itself is restrictive as all get out. Let the engine breath easier, and you get better performance and gas mileage. You want to relieve back-pressure, some is good, to much is bad. And yes, Time to retire that old fuel filter.....

Talking on an EA-82 engine here. I used the little bracket that holds the wire for the oil pressure sender, to hold the throtle return spring. I removed the bracket from where it was, flipped it a bit, then bolted it to one of the T-belt cover bolts. This put the spring in front of the carb, and down lower than what I've seen on other swaps. I still have to drill a small hole in the throttle linkage on the carb to fit the spring, just have it hooked on it for now. I had a time of it with the throttle cable myself. It's been shorten by previous owner. Haven't figured out why yet. Anyways, getting the cable in-line with the linkage on the carb was a slight pain. Finally just whacked the bracket with a hammer. Whala, she be in line now. Have to get to the local yard and get me a proper lenght throttle cable soon. Where this one is attached to the mount bracket, it won't let me set the choke, and I can get full WOT with the go pedal. Everything works properly if I do it from under the hood. So that just leaves the cable length, and it's mounting point, as the culprits. I did have a clearance problem where the Hitachi's throttle linkage fastens to the Weber carb. Wanted to hang on one of the rods for the choke. I just added washers between it until it cleared the rod. Thinking that vacuum line you mentioned is for your heater controls. If the air won't come out of any of the other ducts besides the vent ones, You may want to hook that back up. Really love the differance that the Weber made on mine. Snappier throttle response, better gas milage. Did take some of the bark out of the exhaust, but that will help keep the cops off my tail.

Love the key off-lights off feature on the '86, always left the light switch in the on position. Wish the '82 had it also. Guess it's time for a DIY wiring change.

Bigger is better, in this case, Jim. Especially with a turbo on there. You have alot more heat being dumped back into the engine. Price differance betwen the 1 and 2 row radiators, isn't that much, for a new one. So I would put the 2 row in, just to save future headaches. Got a new 2 row in the '86. Bought it last year, on-line for $109.00 to my door. The price has gone up this year, thinking it's now around $125.00 plus S&H. I'll be getting one for the '82 here shortly. Nothing wrong with the one in there now, just going to do it.

Can't help you on the Wagon ID, there Miles. But had simular problem getting the '82 re-titled to a Michigan title, from an Illinios title. Was at the Secretary of State office for over an 1:45, probally closer to 2 hours, just to do 5 minutes worth of paper work. I had the title for the '86 with me to show what it should be registered as. Told me the year differance would change the way it was registered. HUH?!!? Excuse me, they are the same vehicle, parts will swap between them. Except for the difference in headlights, they are basically identical. The '86 is listed as a truck, as it should be. They couldn't find the '82 listed as a truck, so they wouldn't list it as one, or didn't want to. Finally got them to look under the Subaru listings in the book. There it was. IDed as a truck. They were trying to find it under the standard listing for truck models, and just wouldn't listen to me. I have retitled more vehicles than most of the people that work in the local office of the SoS, I know what i'm talking about when it comes to this stuff. I even know how to beat the system, and get a clear title, in my name, to a brand new vehicle. Just don't chose to use that knowledge in that fashion. I can tell you that Kentucky was the easiest place I was ever in to get a vehicle retitled. Just outright plain and simple method they have there.

Just learned something new. Thanks Qman! Now I just need to find a DL with a manual tranny. Don't think the lack of the spring is your problem with the clutch adjustment issue. Reason being... My '82 doesn't have a clutch return spring on the release lever, nor is the cable there for the Hill Holder, which is there. The guy that did the engine swap, left the HH cable off, mainly because he didn't re-mount the HH when he moved it rearwards. He did put an accelerator return spring on the release lever for the clutch. Clearly not even close to what it should be size wize. I do have good pedal adjustment with proper free-play. And the clutch fully releases if I put the pedal on the floor. May have to tweak it a bit more. Only problem I do have is the clutch will slip during shifts, if I'm hard on the gas and on dry pavement. Loose stuff, or painted shop floors are no problem. Thinking the slippage is from the spring not being what it's supposed to be. Not 100% on that though. Could just be weak pressure plate. I haven't messed with a clutch cable on any Sube yet, but I do have a new one out in the garage for when I do the 5 speed swap. Therefore, I can't give you any tips or tricks on it But clearly, something isn't right. Would consider what was said in your first posting on this, about the release bearing and holders. You shouldn't have the same problem with 2 different cables.....

From what I understand, the spline count of the input shaft is different between the EA-81 and EA-82 trannys along with the collar that the throw-out bearing rides on. Plus the throw-out bearing not fitting the fingers of the pressure plate, like Scott mentioned. Add to that, the pilot bearing size difference. Really thinking that's why the guy that swapped the EA-82 engine into the '82 BRAT I now own, used the EA-81 flywheel, and clutch assembly. He re-drilled the mounting bolt holes to fit the larger ones for the EA-82 engine crankshaft. Main problem with doing that is, you lose the marks for timing the T-belts. Plus, the ignition timing marks are off a bit, I'm setting ignition timing by ear right now. If you have both flywheels available, you could enlarge the bolt holes in the EA-81s, stack them atop each other, both facing the same way. Align the bolt holes to their proper postion. Then make your own marks on the EA-81 flywheel, for T-belt and ignition. Then, , , , You could send me that un-needed EA-82 flywheel so that I can do my 5 speed swap. Yes/No, maybe so?!?! Just asking is all.

You need the pilot bearing, clutch disk, and throw-out bearing for the tranny you're using. Flywheel and pressure plate for the engine you're using.

She's running real good now. Managed to get a proper plug cut done. Actually did 4 different ones, under various driving conditions. Plugs appear to be the right color. I can now wind her out in first gear, and no stummbling as with the Hitachi. The exhaust note from the duals has mellowed considerable, but she'll still bark when you mash the loud pedal. My gas mileage has geatly improved. Have done a specific check on MPG, but the gage is telling me she's running better. Yesterday, the Boss sent me down to get a couple of propane tanks filled for our forklifts. When I got back, I pulled into the plant to unload them. Boss is impressed with the BRAT, He's seen it, but not up close. Anyways, upon pulling out of the shop, he tells me to "light 'em up"... So I did. Always listen to the Boss, Right? The floor is painted with an Epoxy paint. It's now sporting 2 stripes about 6' long, with 2 more about 3' long from when I nailed 2nd gear. When I get back into the shop, Boss is standing there with a couple of co-workers. All of them are going ape sh!t over the tire marks on the floor. Boss had only one word to say to me. "COOL". Another co-worker wanted to know what I had in it. I told him, "No way" he says. Had to go out and show him that it was what I said it was. Wouldn't believe that it was only a 4 banger under the hood. His Ford pick-up won't do that, he's tried. It'll just chirp the tires. Poor Baby!!!!

Although the EA-81 and EA-82 engines have different methods of attaching those tubes to the exaust, I used the same method of blocking them on both of my BRATs. I cut the tubes off of the attachment point at the exhaust. Then I cut the head off of an allen head bolt and welded it to the connection for the tubes. After doing that, you can remove all of the associated components that are connected to the tubes. Really cleans up the engine bay. The ASV's have been known to go into Nuclear meltdown, and cause problems with the carburator. Some of the plastic from inside of the ASV will get into the bores of the carb and cause you headaches. But I don't think it would cause missing or stumbling, could be wrong. When was the last time she was given a good tune-up? Could be the carb is dirty inside, try some fuel system cleaner, maybe a couple of tanks worth. Where in Ohio are you? A few other members are from Ohio, and I'm only 20 miles north of the border. Plus Miles Fox is just over the border in Indiana....

Don't have any referance as to which wire is which, as far as color coding goes. But at the wiper motor connector, you should have the following. Key on-wipers off; You should have battery voltage on one of the leads. This is the power feed to "park" the wipers. Key on-wipers on low; You should have voltage on one of the other wires that didn't have it before. Key on-wipers on high; You should have power on the last of the wires. Lastly - You have your grounding wire connection. Maybe this should be firstly instead. But you need to make sure that the ground is a good connection also. This will get you to the it's the motor, or it's in the wiring/switch area. You can make the check with either a test lamp, or a multi-meter. I prefer the latter myself.

Would check the condition of the electrical connection for the sending unit at the tank. The one on my '86 was way corroded. I just removed the connector and spliced the wires together, using solder and shrink-wrap.

http://www.carbsunlimited.com/Weber/Dataresults3.asp?Kit_Nbr=K731&Model=ALL%20,%20INCLUDING%20BRAT The link is to the complete carb kit I have for my EA-82 engine. Has a 2-piece adapter for the manifold. Carbs is supposedly jetted correctly for these engines. Mine is running good now, just as it came out of the box. A few notes on the kit; The flat-head screws for mounting the lower plate to manifold are to long, unless you use the black plastic spacer that's under the Hatachi carb. I found that the spacers themselves, don't quite fit the opening in manifold, and vice-versa. I did a little hand machining on everything, using a rotory file, and a flat file, to blend everything smooth. Even trimmed the gaskets to fit the spacers better. The studs for mounting carb to adapters are to long also. They will work on the rear 2 holes, but would be a real pain to use on the front 2 holes, recommend using shorter bolts here. They send you the tall filter, approx., 2-1/2" high, may cause hood clearance issues. Short filter is 1-1/2" high. You may/may not, need a fuel pressure regulator. I did. http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/retrofitting_the_weber_dgav_32.htm Good info on a Weber install, with guide to re-jetting if you deem that nessacary. Take your time installing the carb. Double check that you have everything hooked up, and un-used vacuum ports blocked off. Then go out and enjoy it...........

Thanks for pointing out the FPR, Skip. I must be getting senile, didn't enter the thought pattern. I have a Spectre FPR p/n 2517 from Auto Zone $20.00. Adjustable from 1.5 to 3.5 Lbs. I have it set on the 4.5 notch right now. 11 settings, from .5 to 5.5, but not reflective of actual pressure. Seems to be what she likes. Did a 60+ mile trip last night, ran good, and I didn't use as much gas as I had on previous trips with the Hitachi on. I still need to find some open stretch of road so as to do a proper plug cut run. Then I'll know if I have the gas flow set right. Query; Why is it, that when you breakdown, it seems like you're the only one on the road. But if you want a clear section of road to do some testing, everybody and their brother is on the road?.......

http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/retrofitting_the_weber_dgav_32.htm Helped me out with my conversion...

Happens more often than not, to all of us. Not a good idea to use fine threaded bolts/studs in aluminum. But that's just my opinion. Few different ways to do a repair... Re-tap to next size up in bolt size, Buy a Heli-coil kit, drill out the hole(s), use heli-coil tap, insert heli-coil, then install new stud(s), Have muffler shop cut off the flanges and re-weld them to use the other holes in the head, I repaired the ones on my '82, by running a 7/16"-14 tap into the holes, goes right in, no pre-drilling. I used a starter tap first, (has the pointed tip), then followed with a bottoming tap, (has flat tip). Then installed my own studs. I realize that you're in another country and all, but those are American standard bolt thread size. I'm going to have to do the ones on the '86 also. How ever you chose to do the repair, be sure to use Anti-Sieze compound on the studs. Will make life easier next time you have to remove the exhaust......

believe that they're held in by a pin on both ends. Read of guys with welded rear diffs pulling their axles while on dry pavement. Chances are that they're just rusted on to the stubs. Alittle heat and convincing with a hammer will probally help get them off. I would recommend using anti-sieze when putting them back on. Just to be safe.......

I could do Iowa in the Spring......

As stated in the thread on the '87 BRAT...... If you have to ask, then yes you should buy it. I know I would ifin it was closer to me.

Believe so. One battery + connection on the rear, has a nut holding it. Side connector is - -, not | |. If memory serves me right, it should be about 7-8" in diameter. You can tell by looking at the wires, on the side connector, which one goes to battery +, and which one goes to the light(switch). The battery one is heavier gage. Getting irrated with this key-board. Shift doesn't always work, and it skips letters. GRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pull the trim panel under the steering column. Should be a whiteish(I think) colored connector there that has wires going up into the steering column (could be a pink one). Look for a burn mark, however slight on this connector. It's the main feed to the key switch. Could be that connection is kaput. Lot of guys just splice the wires around the connector. Have you tried doing a battery + hot-wire to the + side of the coil to see if she'll run, since the first hot wire try? This will rule out bad disty/coil and related wiring. Use a voltmeter or test light to check for power at the coil connections, again. Should have battery voltage on the + side of coil with key on. There is a fuse for the ignition system. You may have shorted something out when you re-inserted the key. Thinking one of the fusable links are for the ignition system also. They're in the little black box by the battery. Also want to check the connections underneath these. Remove the bolts that hold it in place, and look under it. Lost the headlights on my '86, due to a corroded terminal. Looked good to look at it, but it wasn't. Just some ideas...........

but it's how I bought 2 BRATs. Got the '86 from a guy I worked with, he took it as payment for work done on another guys vehicle. Dave really didn't want it, (the fool). It's rusty, but runs great! Had leaky rear brake lines, which he replaced. He couldn't get the brakes to bleed out, figured the rubber flex lines were shot. Asked what he wanted for it, said $100.00. I said sold!!! Neglected to tell him that the brakes are cross plumbed. Really didn't know that for sure, but had my suspisions. Drove 23+ miles home, no brakes other than the E-brake, no exhaust beyond where the cat was supposed to be. Flailed it, flogged it, beat the crap out of it. Wife loved every second of the ride home. It is now, Her BRAT! Found the '82 while reading posts over on Yahoo's BRAT club site. Someone was looking for a tailgate for his. Killer_Siller replied that he had one for sale, and that the guy could have the whole BRAT ifin he wanted it. I straight away emailed him, and asked what he wanted for it. $300.00 was the reply, includes all the extra stuff he had for it. Get to where he lives, East Central Illinios, and pay for the BRAT. We start loading up the extras. 1-EA-81 engine, some assembly required; 1-3.90 rear diff w/mustache bar (damn, it's not LSD); 1-5 Spd D/R tranny; 2- new rear shocks NSIB; 1- complete front strut/knuckle assembly; 2 front struts for wagons; 2- vented rotors and calipers,(calipers were trash); 2- rear drums. 1- 2-piece driveshaft Also on the BRAT so as to be able to drive it; 2- brand new tires, still had the nubs; 1- full size spare to match, still had sticker on it; 2- slightly used tires up front; 1- brand new battery; 2- re-apholstered(sp) seats w/lumbar adjustment; By the way, the jump seats are in the back, where they belong. Also, it has the EA-82 engine in it. Now, just last week, I get an email from him. Seems he was cleaning out the garage, and found the "complete" bed chrome for it. I'm missing the tail-gate piece, like the rest of us BRAT owners. Wanted to know if I wanted it. Had to think on that for a nano-second. Would just cost me shipping charges. Heck, I made up the box and sent it to him, so he could ship it back. Just thinking that these were DEALS. Not to often you can find buys like this, 'specially like the '82 ..............................