TomRhere

Would also suggest that you unbolt the box and check the underside connections. Not saying it's your problem, but I've had them get way corroded on my old '86. Lost headlights on dark curvy road once, due to corrosion on the wires under link box. Wouldn't crank over another time, for same reason. And as usual, check all of your grounds.....

You go Girl!!! Just keep plugging away at the little Gremlins that pop up, and you'll have it running good in no time. Have had people ask me why I spend time and money on mine. Well, Cause it's mine, and not your's!!!! Working on the purchase of BRAT #4 at this time. Just made the 3rd payment to owner of it, 2 maybe 3 more to go. Another '86 GL D/R 4spd. Jus kant hep m'seff.........

Have you checked your T-belts? If you popped the RH one (as you look at engine), disty no go around, therefore no spark. Pull disty cap, crank engine over, see if rotor turns. Hmmm.. Would this be the type of disty that has that little screw for the rotor that likes to come loose/fall out? Could be broken wire for the sensor/pick-up unit in the disty. Not real sure what your vehicle has in there, (more of an EA-81 type here). Just some things to check...................

It was an '86 BRAT, but I managed to get the windshield out in one piece. I used a razor knife to cut away as much of the rubber seal as possible. That sticky Black goop that's in the glass area is/was a joy to convince to let go of the glass though. Tried same method on the '82 BRAT, but wasn't as careful I guess. It was cracked, so I wanted to change it. By the time I had it out, it was totally Fubar....

Any engine, can be built to run backwards. You need a reverse ground camshaft, and a reverse wound starter motor. Kinda fuzzy on all the details involved, but thinking plug wires may have to be reversed also. Don't 'member of-hand who's magazine it was in, but you could order the stuff to do a R'd Chevy engine. Thinking it had to do with stuffing one in a VW.... Have to run a manual tranny though, as Auto's don't run to good being turned backwards. Pump don't do backwards real well, regardless of make. Need pump to pump fluid, no do that running backwards......

2 things that came to mind when reading you original posting, both are related to each other in a sense. 1. High idle speed when cold = vacuum leak?? Whether carbed or Fi, engine gets more fuel when cold, add more air via vacuum leak, you get higher idle speed. 2. Brakes are harder to apply = vacuum booster not working properly?? Vacuum leak will affect brake booster, 'specially a big leak. Would look at all hoses as previously stated, 'specially the larger ones, and one going to booster can. If nothing found on hoses, remove and plug hose going to booster can, see if idle changes. If more normal, booster is fubar.... As in possible blown diaphram, causing vacuum leak, and no power brakes. Quick test for bad booster: Engine off, pump brake pedal atleast 6 times, hold foot on pedal and start engine. Pedal should "fall away" from your foot after engine starts. If it don't, booster is fubar.....

When re-doing, or adding for that matter, the ground wires on your vehicle. Make a trip to your local hardware store first. Get some star-lock washers to use on the bolts, one below terminal, one above terminal, under bolt head. Star-lock washers have multiple teeth on them ( sorta like ////// all the way around), and will bite-in better, giving a better contact. Words of wisdom passed down to me by an Automotive Electrical Guru.

Had, a carbed EA-82 in my '82 BRAT. Ran fairly good up to the time the Hitachi started to go south on me. Swapped on a Weber, Super Stock coil/wires, fabbed a 2" true dual exhaust for it. Won't say she was super fast, or anything after all of that. Can't say if I lost any low-end grunt, by going 2" on the exhaust. Was the only EA-82 I've ever drove, so.... Can say, she'd run up thru the gears real good, sounded good doing it too. Could cruise down the hiway at 75-80mph with no problems, and could accelerate more at those speeds. Did have the speedometer needle pegged, and tach needle still climbing once. How fast I was going, don't know that... Got 31 mpg on last road trip in her. Consensis on the exhaust is 1-7/8" lead pipes back to the "Y", (thinking I read 26-1/2" on length somewhere), 2" to the cat (if needed where you live), then 2-1/2" the rest of the way, with a free-flowing muffler. This will help maintain your low-end torque, while freeing up the engines breathing. I went 2" all the way, just because the pipes matched the ports on the heads, and EMT conduit, doesn't come in 1-7/8" size. Conduit was free, so I used it. Used Xcellerator Turbo mufflers, but Glasspacks, FlowMasters, or other performance mufflers will work, your choice there. On the coil, you're looking at the High Voltage output. Say a stock coil is 25,000 volts, 35,000 would be better, 50,000 is really much better. Need to have plug wires that will handle the higher voltage, and open the gap of the plugs to .045-.050 range.

Wagon looks good.......:cool: Engine no look so good..... Seen simular damage on a 'Yota engine, the head actually, total wash-out between adjoining cylinders from owner driving it for over 6 months with blown head gasket. (no comments will be made on this former significant other) Amazing what damage can be done from compressed air, ain't it??

Some of us that's done this conversion, have had to use a Fuel Pressure Regulator, in the supply line to the carb, and there's some out there that don't need one. Don't know why that is.... Difference in fuel pumps maybe???? Sounds like you need one, about $20. Ran mine on the 4.0 setting, which is just about full open, but that's what the engine wanted. At the 3.5 setting, it would basically run outta gas if I ran her up thru the gears hard, and I liked doing that.... Last long road trip in it, got 31mpg, '82 BRAT, EA-82 engine, 4spd D/R trans, 2" dual exhaust, stock tire size.

Quick fix for the fuel pump power. Was posted by another Member here also. Get the oil pressure switch for an early/mid '70's GM product, Vega, Monza, Starfire, ect... These had electric pumps, powered thru the oil pressure switch. No OP, no gas. Got the part number here some durn place, used one on my '82 to solve pump power feed problem. Switch has 3 tabs on it, 1 for oil light, other 2 were for fuel pump. Good buy on the BRAT, even with tire dent. Thinking I would've side-stepped that tire myself.

Can not for the life of me find the web site I read it on, it had to do with Soob motors in airplanes. Anyways, thinking I read on there that 26-1/2" on the lead pipe length before they hit the Y. Maybe it was 29-1/2". Was one or the other though. Sorry couldn't be of more help.

Not real sure of the actual PSI of the system, but an AT tranny cooler should be just the ticket for you. Would put it the return line, and in-front of the radiator for best cooling. Would only need some hose and a couple of clamps to do install, other than actual mounting of cooler. But any air flow would be benefical. Ford used to just have a looped line sitting behind the fan for PS cooling, mounted right on the PS pump. Later, they added some fins to the loop, but it wasn't all that much really.

Not sure on your car, but on the BRATs, the air intake is about dead center in front of you, in the wiper cowl, as you're setting in the passenger seat. Quite possible that the blow-by fumes are being sucked in there. Check the rubber seal along the top of the firewall, it should seal against the hood when shut, to help eliminate that problem. As for the PCV system, sounds like the hoses, and/or the engine covers are blocked with crud. These things happen.. Would pull all of the hoses off, clean them out. Maybe even pull the cam covers off and do them too. Unless your rings are totally shot, you shouldn't get a lot of blow-by out of the oil fill cap otherwise.

http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/retrofitting_the_weber_dgav_32.htm

Going by your pics, and looking up at lines, they go as follows; #1. small line = no problemo #2. runs with small line to top of tank, where larger line is #3. it runs to the line that goes around to the frontside of tank

D'OH!!! Knew there was something I was to do after work. Give me afew, and I'll post back with info.

What shifter, and driveshaft do you need? Got the shifter out of the XT-6 here, got a couple of driveshafts laying around too. Think ones from the 6 also. I know you can stuff a wagon full of parts. Seen that when you picked up all of your stuff from the XT-6. Front seats, front suspension, rear suspension, all 5 tires with rims, did I forget anything? Of course, you didn't have 2 other bodies to get in there too at the time.

Drop the driveshaft out, and look at the splines of the yoke that goes into the tranny. While not a common thing, I have seen them strip out before. Usually caused by the front u-joint being siezed, or way overly stiff. Causes yoke to wobble slightly on output shaft, eating away at the splines in the front yoke. Seen same thing happen in the slip-joint of 2-piece driveshafts, too.

One filter is at the fuel pump, has 1 in and 1 out. Other one is under hood, by the Master Cylinder. Has 3 lines, 1 in from pump, 1 out to carb, 1 small line on top that's a return to tank line.

I'll take a look/see under both of mine, after work today (3pm). Try to do a pic of them too.

As Tim said, no one set of numbers for doing the Weber swap. But info here http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/retrofitting_the_weber_dgav_32.htm Might help you get a grip on things..........

Can't help on the AC swap stuff really, but thinking the main harness should have it in there, just plug in the parts you take off donor. Don't quote me on that though. On the T-belt idlers; Been a few of us try making our own, me included. Just to let you know, wasn't to much success doing it. But wishing you luck on yours.

What color interior on the BRAT? Looking for some trim pieces here.

One of the Auto Mags I used to get had a nice write-up in it on "Under the Hood" cooking. Can't 'member which Mag it was, been afew eons ago. But you wrapped up the viddles in 'luminum foil, stuck it on the exhaust manifold, did your trip, chow down.