Everything posted by TomRhere
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92 Loyale Body Moulding Hardware
Well most of the responses are from EA82 owners, but I'm sure those of us that own EA81's would like some also. I own both. Not sure if there is a difference right this moment.
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My '83 GL: The Ski Wagon
I bought a clutch cable from rockauto for one of the BRATs a few years back. Cable has survived 2 different BRATs sofar. What year did they change the method of how it connects to the clutch pedal? I can't remember if it was '83 or '84. Tom, I have a brand new one still in it's package for the '82. Pretty sure it's an OEM one. Can be your's if it fits the '83. Got a new phone what does pics, I'll try to get one of it and send it to you.
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92 Loyale Body Moulding Hardware
Same here. Rear PS door trim is loose. Not sure if I have any saved from vehicles I parted out, will have to dig thru various totes and boxes. As for the type of plastic they're made from, I want to say it's from the ABS Family, but can't say which one. Worked the Plastic Injection Molding Industry for quite a few years. Lot of the trim fasteners were of ABS, but different types. ABS family ranges from hard/brittle to soft/plyable.
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My '83 GL: The Ski Wagon
Chris has a '97 LaSabre. Really likes it. But he still says "The Wagon is more "FUN" to drive" though. And a 1.8L against a 3.8L has no chance, even if the 3.8 is moving more of a load. It's twice the engine,,,, and then some.
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Heating up my brat bed??
There is a 12 volt electric blanket to be had. I'll see if I can find some more info about it while at work.
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Complete Cone Washer Failure
That line looks more like a casting mark than a crack. Flash from camera just inhances it more at that angle.
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Complete Cone Washer Failure
The axle should be fine. The hub however, is toast. With that much wear on the cone washer, the matching area of the hub is worn also. Plus, the hub splines that mate to the axle are most likely worn away. Reason you can't move it when you let the clutch out.
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Got my hands on a push start today.....
That is my thoughts also. I would use the switch to control a couple of relays for the Ignition and Accessory power feeds to the fuse box.
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Ea82 driveline
Some times, one must do that to keep the vehicle drivable. Done so with a couple of the BRATs due to bad front axle(s), and no moneies to replace them right away. Pull axles, install outer stubs, pop it in 4WD and drive it to/from work. Really not recomended in heavy wet snow though. Had the back bumper want to do the leading a few times. Front tires would get into the heavy stuff, rears would break traction, around we go. I'm on the road in the mornings, way before the plow trucks are. Been the 1st one down the road(s) many a morning.
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Quiet Riot. My 87 GL-10
Quiet Riot has some good jamming music.
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TomRHere's '88 GL 4WD Wagon
Not much done on the Wagon, spent most of my energy wrenching on Del's HHR. Had to replace PS front bearing hub assembly. Major argueage going on there. Was definetly not wanting to come out of the knuckle assembly. Lot's of corrosion in the bore after I got it out. Steel part in an aluminum housing, go figure... Did get the windows cleaned. Drain/refill of the washer fluid with ice melter type fluid. Checked tire pressures. WOW... Glad I did. All 4 were around 25 pounds. Didn't really look all that soft, and ride quality seemed to be right, so I never thought they were low. But cooler temps have set in so I can see why they'd be low. Got some twisty roads around here that I drive on at different times. I have hit some of those curves at a good speed, no issues in handling that I felt could be tire pressure related. Been getting decent gas mileage also. Last fill up was 13.9 gallons with 381.1 miles driven since previous fill. Had thought of rotating tires, but it'll wait until next weekend. I'm whoopped. This bug I have is kicking my backside, intensly... I have no energy.
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What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)
Moved the '85 BRAT from yard to garage. Been sitting outside for 2 weeks now. Been keeping it in the garage, just to abate anymore weathering of it. Had to do the jump-start thing though. Seems someone was thinking of playing around with it, they left the key "on". They wouldn't have gotten to far in it though. Pretty sure the tank is about empty. Low Fuel light has been on for some time, but she still comes in handy for moving stuff about the yard. Haven't put any gas in it for quite some time, and the light has been on since I took it off the road back in June this year.
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TomRHere's '88 GL 4WD Wagon
Yeah, I'm sure you are right in that statement. LOL
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TomRHere's '88 GL 4WD Wagon
You have no idea on how irritated I get with her over simple things like that.
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proportioning valve + rear disk swap (WTB: valve)
Well,,, it did come off a way rusted out XT6.... Should be able to hit it with a wire brush to clean it up. Leave the cut lines attached while you do that, help keep crud out of it. Other than disassembling it, , I don't know of any way to check it's condition prior to installing it.
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TomRHere's '88 GL 4WD Wagon
Since getting the Wagon on the road back on June 23rd, I've put a bit over 7,000 miles on it. Mostly from the trips for work, a few short jaunts here and there. Time to rotate tires. I can see a difference in tread wear between the fronts and the rears. TOD issue is still happening. Comes and goes. Some times, it's quiet at start up, other times, she'll rattle. Driving down the road, TOD comes and goes. No real pattern to it, just does it when it wants to. Need to pick up another oil pressure gage, plumb it in, see what actual pressure is. Oil pump I re-sealed and installed only had something like 5-6,000 on it, so it should still be a good pump. Everything "looked" ok with it. Didn't do any indepth inspection of it though. Bought new wiper blades for it last week. Finally,, put them on yesterday during lunch. Just in time for a wet drive home from work. Been trying to fight off some bug, so not much of anything getting done as far as wrenching goes. Been 2 weeks now, time for it to go away. Last weekend, after doing the usual Saturday morning errands, I had just enough ambition to crawl back into bed. That's where I stayed all weekend. BLEEH !!!! Not to sure on what I'll get done this weekend. Got to do the job thing today. Sucks... Del's HHR needs a front bearing hub replaced, and some other TLC. Christopher's LaSabre needs some attention also, so I'll be assisting him on that. Kinda sucks being the major wrench turner, my vehicle is always on the bottom of the list. Christopher is learning to do some of the work himself though. Can't even get Del to add washer fluid to hers.
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Grounding woes
Main battery ground is a single wire at the attachment point on engine/trans. Shouldn't need to remove heater hose to get to it. As said, clean all ground points you can find. Doesn't hurt anything to add extra grounds either.
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proportioning valve + rear disk swap (WTB: valve)
Printer is refusing to coperate with any computer in this here house. Must be time for a new one.. PM me your email addy and I'll send that section of the XT6 FSM. PV will be sent your way tomorrow via UPS. Let you know shipping. Think you can convince the Wife about that "awesome" part for me? edit; Is that St., Ave., Dr., for your street addy. I know they'll ask me about it.
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1986 GL Coupe Restoration Project
I found that Murphy's Oil Soap does wonders for getting the smell of cigarrette smoke out of vehicles. Bought a '95 Dodge pickup off a friend. He and his wife were heavy smokers. I smoke, but the smell inside that truck was intense to say the least. Mixed up a pail of hot water with Murphy's and washed the interior down, damp-ragging the seats and carpeting. Took two seperate washings to get rid of the smell, but it was worth it. Nice pine scent, that isn't overbearing.
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It's a BRAT!
Believe that's the switch for 4-Low. FSM says 4WD switch is on the upper right side of the transfercase, just in front of the top cover. Plunger on switch is most likely gummed up with varnish from the trans lube. Mainly from not being activated often. Should be able to remove switch and clean it with some electrical spray, see if it frees up. Not sure on best way to remove switch though. From inside or underneath. Haven't had to do that.
- It's a BRAT!
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proportioning valve + rear disk swap (WTB: valve)
The FSM I spoke of is for the XT6. I'll get the info printed off, get the PV and info in a box later today. Let you know when it's on it's way.
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proportioning valve + rear disk swap (WTB: valve)
I have the PV out of the XT6 that I had. Yours if you want it. I can print a page out of the FSM that shows the whole brake system. Can aslo include the text that explains the system and how it all works. PM me your street addy. edit; I was under the impression that you "had" the donor vehicle, not that you just have the disc parts.
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Painting in cold wet weather
With the ambient temps you're talking about, it will take much longer for the paint to fully cure. It may feel dry to the touch, but still be wet underneath.
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New Orleans Brat!
It has been said that one should install the proportioning valve when doing a rear disc swap, as a "Panic Stop" situation could cause the rears to lock-up, putting you in a spin. You have that valve under the donor vehicle, so go ahead and swap it over to the BRAT. You will have to figure a mount spot for it. Plumbing it in shouldn't be to difficult. Take note of how the lines are connected on the donor and replumb the lines under the BRAT to match. You should be able to purchase pre-made lines at your local parts store, Choose the lengths closest to what you need, bend them to fit. A little extra length won't hurt anything, just bend an S curve or a loop in the line. I didn't have the proportioning valve when I did the '85 BRAT. It stops straight with no rear wheel lock-up. I can see how it could happen though, as I have had it happen to me with a few of the mid '60's era pickups I used to own.
