TomRhere

2 motor mounts on the crossmember under the engine. 2 transmition mounts on the side of the trans. Some part lists call the trans mounts "rear motor mounts". Check pics of what it is you're ordering, make sure that what they say it is, is what it is.

If you haven't touched the other side, take that drum off and copy how it's put together.

Order the cable for an '84, that way you get the correct one, (or any parts for that matter).. If you go with the year of your's, you could get the EA82 cable, (or other parts). Be sure to properly route the replacement also. It runs under the steering column and heater hoses in the engine compartment.

Outside of driving it everyday, I've been amassing parts for it. Bought new, oilpan and cam cover gaskets, T-belts, waterpump gasket, rear axle seals, (already had bearings). Still to purchase yet, camshaft seals, oilpump seals, strutrod bushings. Some new u-joints for the driveshaft are on the list also.

No worries Mate......

Could be, the PS axle that was replaced, bad spot in a wheel bearing. If you think the DS axle you took out is still good, swap it into the PS side, see if eliminates the clunk. My 1st Subaru, an '86 BRAT, had a noise from the front, usually after driving a few miles and getting some heat into the moving parts. Could feel it in the steering wheel too. Found the inner bearing on the PS had a bad spot in it

To do 5-lug, you have to swap the strut/knuckle assemblies, not just the hub. But yeah, any 4-lug hub will fit regardless of what EA82 vehicle it come off of.

Was happy to hear you got the parts already.

Yea, hubs are the same. Inner joint/trans splines are different. Auto trans/turbos share the same inner spline count. 23 vs 25 is what you're looking at. You need 23 for a Non turbo/auto vehicle. Unlles,,, it's an XT6. The inners on those are 25 also for the manual trans.

LOL. Guess I fat-fingered the key on that one. Fixed it. Had just got home from work, and was busy shoving food into my face.

Parts are on their way to you. Hang in there on the car, it's 20 years old. Bound to have things what need attention. And yea, around these parts, if your vehicle don't have rust, it soon will....

I should have a couple sets of the washers and nuts here. Could send some your way. PM me your address.

Nice to know that.. Wasn't sure on fitment, just new there was a difference.Thought I would mention that.

Do believe that you need a different starter also. There is a definet difference between man/auto starter overall shape/construction. Not sure on interchange between the 2 though.

Over the years, I've made a few trips Northerly. Been over the bridge once, awesome ride on the back of a trike!!!!! Thinking, I've been thru St.L. once, just seems to be real familular.

"quote: Not sure what people use to re taper the ball joints anyone know? "end quote: One should really use a tapered ream to change the size/pitch of the balljoint mount in the control arm. Know anyone that works in a machine shop or tool & die shop? Maybe you could borrow the correct ream. Be exspensive to buy one just for a basically, one-time use, unless you plan on doing a few vehicles worth of them for others. MilesFox has posted about using various size drill bits to "step-drill" the control arm. I really don't like that idea myself... The stud of the balljoint should be fully seated against a simular taper in the arm.

Got the parts I ordered, so some wrenching shall be done this weekend. Won't be able to do a reseal on the oilpump though. Seems I ordered the wrong seals. Could of sworn I clicked on the proper one, but a search of the part number on the order slip came up with an EA81 kit, not the EA82 one. Correct seal was listed right below the one I ordered, so I hit the wrong order button apparently. But why they have the EA81 kit listed with the EA82 one is confusing. Need to order some more parts, so I'll make sure to get the correct seal kit for the pump. Some new timing belt are on the top of the list, as I have no clue as to the age/mileage on the belts on the engine now. They are the ones that were on the engine before I swapped it in. No more drips from the waterpump. Nice, but makes one wonder. I do have a spare "newish" pump here, but no gasket. Thinking some Ultra Black will work though. Had thoughts of swapping out all of the interior for the Brown this weekend, but it seems Del has made her own "to-do-it" list for me. Thanks Dear............. I'll get that stuff done 1st, then it's on to some car wrenching.

Good to hear that you're getting it running properly. Sorry to mislead you on the disty timing/vac hose thing. I've always set mine as I stated, but apparently a new vac adavnce is more sensitive than an old one. Mine were/are functional, but there must be something to do with age of the diaphram. Don't know.....

Welcome! I'm down in Hillsdale, long way away from the dunes. Liking the roof rack! Need to build one for my Wagon. I think Wagons look much better with a nicely built roof rack on them. To do a 5-lug swap, you'll need to find the parts off an XT6 for the rears, only thing that will fit. You'll atleast need the hubs from one. Swapped mine to 5-lug, but I also owned the XT6 all the parts came from, made it much easier/cheaper to do. If you can do the fabrication work, Legacy rears could be made to fit, but it would be some serious fab work as it's a totally different setup under them. Lots of info on this Board. Take the time to read thru some of the other forums like the Off Road and Retrofitting ones. Off Road has info on wheels and tires. The USRM Forum has good info in it also.

On one of my BRATs, I had an issue of corrosion on the main battery feed to the fusable link box. Wire was just about ate through at it's connection. Undo the mount for the link box and turn it over to inspect those connections. Also, it could be the battery cables themselves loosing connection inside of the ends. A "high amp draw" like starter, or headlights will cause the connection to fail, where dashlights, radio, chimes will not.

T-belts changed during lunch. She be running again. Did get a few drips of coolant on me while laying under it. Seems the waterpump is leaking. Got spare one of those. Need to get a new hose for the heater line.

Yeah, pretty near empty. Didn't take note of gallons filled, but it was starting to gurgle in the filltube. I run the low-grade gas in all of the vehicles. Rarely bump it up to mid-grade. Popped the DS timing belt on the way to work this morning. Luckily, I was in an area where I could pull way off the road. Rich just happen to be a few minutes behind us, so we made it to work on time. Called a wrecker to tow it to the shop. No problem there. Major problem getting the tow bill paid. 3 different cards from 3 different banks were denied. Had to make a trip with the driver to an ATM an pull money out of the account what pays the HHR loan. Was not a good Monday.................... Got spare belts and tools loaded in Chris's LaSabre. Hoping to get it fixed during lunch tomorrow.

I cut the wires that were bad right near the connector and used some bullet connectors to make the connection. No futher issues.

While playing around under the hood yesterday, I noticed the AC compressor mount shaking some while engine idled. Got to checking things and found I forgot a bolt behind the AC drivebelt tensioner. D'OH!!! Got a bolt in there now..... Swapped PS pump out with another spare one. Have had belt squeal if I move the steeringwheel any while sitting still. Was one of the reasons for putting the AC compressor back in. 2 belts are better than one, or so I thought. Used my 3/8" air ratchet to drive pump while I flushed the fluid out. Got some dirty fluid after cranking the wheels stop-to-stop. Put everything back together, and still have some slight belt squeal. Grr! Guess I need to invest into some "new" belts. These look good, but apparently aren't. Pretty much near the end of the adjuster slots for both belts. Hit the gas station, put $50.00 in it (ouch). Pulled into the carwash and gave it it's 1st real bath since I've owned it. Didn't do any washdown under the hood though. Ran out of coinage. But it definetly needs a good spraydown under there.

Wife's '07 HHR has one of these mirrors, kinda like it. Just may get one for the '88 Wagon. TIP: When you are ready to glue the mount button on, rough up the button and the windshield with some emery cloth. No need to get carried away doing so though. Just need a small amount of roughness. I fold the emery over the tip of my finger, put it against the glass and do a few twists of the fingertip. Same with the button. Clean the roughed areas with some rubbing alcohol on a papertowel. Let dry. Apply adhesive, place button and tape it in place, let sit overnight. I've had to remount many a GM mirror over the years, and found the above to work the best.