Petersubaru

the car I bought for my own FI conversion did not have the fuel pressure regulator on it and had to be removed several years ago...I only knew this later when reading the various repairs that had to be done on this car...although the car runs very smooth, under what conditions of driving style is the fuel regulator needed and how does the car behave when it is being over fueled...I am asking the question to determine if I should purchase another regulator...

the Bellows for the manual steering rack(86 loyale)can not be purchased any more...does anyone have suggestions on how to seal this area up

when looking at rockauto.com there seems to be a difference in calipers between the sedan and wagen, but no difference between the rotors and brake pads that fit them

needing a new gas tank, but the store can not tell me the difference between the FI and Carb (the carbed tank is much cheaper then the FI tank)...the loyale is still carbed with plans for the FI conversion...if I am not mistaken, the carbed fuel tank is just fine for the FI conversion, but I am not sure???

Get a well cared for Legacy/manual/non-turbo these cars have lots of power with the same mpg on the highway as the loyale

I think I now found the general area of why the car has a slightly rough idle ..on the back and sitting on the throttle body is a long looking like nut with a wire going to it and snaps on from the top...I took the part off and cleaned out the "gunk" on the end of the small rod and blew some cleaner down into the plenim...the car idles nearly like new(close enough for now) and also apon starting when cold, it no longer revs up to 1600rpm before warming up to the normal idle...concerning the switch, is this some sort of shut-off or anti - dieseling switch?

I know what you mean about corrsion with that particular part because yesterday I was taking apart pieces from another MPFI plenim and noticed how extremely corroded that wireing etc was...I will look with even greater care in my situation..thanks...

I did not mention the coolant sensor because I put one in last year...but I will check for the corrosion...

No problem, I don't feel insulted..how do I define "shake"?...well, my 86 loyale(200,000mi) with an old carb runs smoother and my SPFI with one very low cyl.compression is also smoother....I just finished up useing a half can of seafoam thru one of the vacuum hoses into the plenim and I will say there is a small improvement...it's almost there ...maybe there is something developeing internally (valve?)...I also checked and cleaned the injector and Maf electrical connections( but they did not need it) ...the car idles at 750-800rpm in gear and 1050-1100rpm in neutral...another characteristic I forgot to mention is that the rough idle will completely disappear and then re-appear a few minutes later when sitting at the street corner....

I just finished up disconnecting the hose from the tranny and plugging it up...There was no change to the idle..it still shakes like before (just a little)

one thing for sure is to replace the modular(s)... would you know the purpose of the other small canister...one can has the vac hose and the other can has 2 wires coming out of it....

there is no tranny fluid being sucked up into the plenam..I disconnected the rubber hose there and it was clean...I think the ashen white color of the plugs is from the additives in the gas....

I forgot to mention at the beginning that the O2 sensor was also changed and yes, the modular has some tranny oil leaking from it unto the driveway...the plugs are also ashen white as you described and it has been raining for 2 days so I will have to wait till it dries up...

I will experiment with that idea.. Thanks

vacuum modular...I will have to look into it..Thanks

86 loyale/ 2wdr./ turbo/ auto /205,000 mi/..the MISS is only felt when the car is in gear and has been like this since I bought the car 2yrs ago, but now I would like to deal with the problem and discover or learn from this one...other then that, all seems to be very good if not excellent... pulls hard when wanted and still passes the Emissions test with no problem and also the compression is still within near new specs...I have changed out the ECU/idle control valve ( the part on top of the thermostate) /O2 sensor/spark plugs/ plug wires/new distributor with new vac pot/dist. cap/ rotor/checked timing/fuel pump is OK/new fuel fiter/changed out the timing belts/ cleaned out the MAF and throttle body inside and out with electronic cleaner/ I have gone over the vacuum lines on 3 different occasions with WD40/propane/starter fluid and resulted in NOT a waver to the RPM gauge..I also took the idle adjusting screw out to clean it, which only resulted in setting the idle a little easier/checked with digital muti-meter for proper grounding and could not find any real difference between the various testing points when comparing the 2 battery posts...one thing that this car does differently, is when checking the spark plugs...they only burn WHITE, not even a hint of tan color which is unlike the other sub's I have....

I am seeking install the Spfi on my carbed EA82 and does anybody know if the SPFI system needs to be so "vacuum sealed" that it requires the oil spout cap to be also sealed..for ex: my MPFI turbo will not run unless the cap is tightly on or the PVC hose also being sealed up...I might have to much back pressure (possible worn rings)to install the FI system, if it requires complete sealing well I guess in this case just get the carb rebuilt

I am looking for detailed info on exchanging my timing belts for an EA82 motor,,,looking up the "search" does not give me anything...Thanks

I think your correct, it does feel like silicone

You got me thinking, so I looked under my car and I too have to change out the hose...went down to the Subaru dealer and he told me quikly that the part(hose) would cost about $20 dollars...Less then a couple of minutes later he told me that the numbers have been superceded with a new price tag of $118.oo for the little hose and possibly a small metal pipe coming down from the turbo( this is the Canadian situation)... the parts guy said that they use a Synthetic hose from Sweden(feels like great stuff) for all applictions that seem to be to expensive when having to use the orginal part..he gave a piece of hose for nothing and it can be used in all applictions useing either hot water/gas/ oil/.. and the part # VOLVO 949701 014 1134 sweden..I am not actually sure what is the part number, just copying from the hose.......

you can speed up the process to see if what you have done will correct the problem...Take the car out on the highway and use a gear that will let you drive without speeding in the 4500-5000 RPM...drive for 10 min..check the breather area for oil...if you find oil there, you may still have to disconnect the pipe from the passanger side valve cover and install a very small breather on the cover... at least the car will not be sucking up oil into the carb from that side of the valve cover where most likely the oil is coming from...you may want to remove the new air filter for this short time...it could become oil soaked

in my case the thermostate was not opening up until the last moment (hitting the red line)and then it would suddenly open..later I found out that the thermostate was not the one for a subaru...It was missing the "little wiggly" that lets the air out if the system ...if your thermostate has the wiggly on it, try running it without the thermo. and see what happens..if it runs cooler then it is thermostate related...a broken or wrong thermo

the gear ratio on the diff reads 3.90 and my original question refers to the 5th gear...Thanks

I like to buy a spare ECU for my 1990 loyale from an exact year and style of car..my ecu says MECF-023 G5 A9 and the one I would like to buy has written on it MECF-024 H6 A9...I can't just test them by exchange nor do I know at the moment if it is an auto or manual...is there a web site that might shed some light on this

would anyone know how fast you are driving when the RPM is at both 3200 and 3600 RPM..I have an 86 loyale manual tranny 4wd. standard tires/wheels