Spiffy

lets see some pics of the coupe... the power windows not working it usually just dirty contacts in the switch... nice that the ac works good... that'll come in handy for the couple weeks of hot weather... is it 4wd or fwd?

the first part of your issue seems like simple physics... the brakes are designed to work best when moving forward... and since the front discs will grip better they'll lock up when the weight is taken off of them because of moving backwards... and the angle of the vehicle would cause the drums to do the same thing... however, you say that the brakes remain locked until you pump the pedal a few times? so if you try to move after braking hard backwards you can't go anywhere because the brakes are still locked up? could be that the self-adjusting mechanism caused the drum shoes to dig in really hard... I have to agree with grossgary... don't do that, and get rear discs... (:

yeah, except... camo has a gen2... so he's going to need to install a full body lift in order to get bigger tires under there to give him the real lift...

you'll want to read Frequently Asked Questions: Tires Wheels Lift Kits Mods for offroading Soobs.... there are a couple links in there to a do-it-yourself homemade lift...

looks like a typical idle or mixture screw... what model is it? 32/36 dgev? --Spiffy

GD was advising me in my hitachi thread that disabling the feedback on the carb will cause it to run full rich... so you'd have to change the jets to the ones from a non-feedback hitachi... and since I'm probably already running full rich since I don't have an o2 sensor I decided to just get a weber... it's in the mail, should be here soon... (: just have to figure out how to connect the pcv hoses to it and I should be good... so long as I don't have a screwed up cat from running it that way for so long... guess I better get a flange welded onto my spare... --Spiffy

if they're both ea82, both the same as far as 2wd/4wd, and both non-turbo or turbo, then yes... here's a reference I picked up off USMB a while back to help you cross reference the spline count... --Spiffy

I keep hearing that the cars with feedback carbs had an O2 sensor... I don't have an O2 sensor... that can't be good if the feedback system is looking for that... so am I really supposed to have one? I'm sure my y-pipe was probably swapped out at some point... guess I could go searching for a loose wire down there... I've got an extra y-pipe with an O2 sensor but I need to have a flange put on it... --Spiffy

I think your answer may be here: http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d11/vc23221.htm Drinking in Motor Vehicle 23221. (a) No driver shall drink any alcoholic beverage while in a motor vehicle upon a highway. ( No passenger shall drink any alcoholic beverage while in a motor vehicle upon a highway. Amended Sec. 2, Ch. 723, Stats. 1999. Effective January 1, 2000. and I think they could reasonably argue that the back of a brat is IN the vehicle... --Spiffy

yeah, a lot of places have those archaic drinking in public laws still on the books... also, if you have a sliding rear window it would definitely be a no-no since then the driver has access to the alcohol... --Spiffy

guess I'll just piece it back together for now... it'll work until I get back to Portland... I'm sure something isn't working right with it... if it needs good feedback I think the already disconnected parts are crippling it... ideally I'd like to go SPFI... but it'd be quite the task for me... I read your guide again last night... at least you have everything laid out nice to follow along... sounds like it would be ideal to have a donor car on hand... maybe I'll just spend the $200 on a used weber kit... but I'd like to take some crazy angles off-road and don't want to worry about stalling at the wrong angle... --Spiffy

although I liked your answer better, GD is a god among the hitachi... I was just hoping for a better answer, but I was already eying the weber swap... (: and yeah, it took a while to get an answer... thought it'd be an easy one for all the pros on this board that have seen a million engine bays... I already consider my mileage to be bad, although it's 20mpg... I guess it could be worse after reading some other threads... just trying to cut down on engine clutter and get rid of the cold start issue I have where I need to keep it floored and basically flood it until it warms up so it will idle... it wasn't always like that... I think the freezing wisconsin temps are making it mad... I'd rejet my carb but the only other one I have is probably also a feedback one, so I have no extra jets laying around... --Spiffy

I agree... you don't know what type of shape a used one is in... they're not THAT difficult to access, but they're in a tricky spot... especially considering there's a wire attached... things can get twisty... you can do it with a wrench, but expect a lot of short wrench throws... also, when you go to the dealer they can give you a print-out showing exactly where it is on your vehicle... very handy... sometimes I go to the dealer just for a print-out... --Spiffy

on my '82 the part where it connects to the fork is broken so it's not hooked up... I haven't missed it... use the parking brake... on my old '88 turbo it worked good... was sometimes annoying though... forgetting that you had it and trying to roll back for something... it's a neat gadget but I've been without it so often that I really don't need it any more... --Spiffy

ok, so I was following GD's thread about the sorbid tale of hitachi love and wanted some clarification on what all this junk is... his thermo vacuum valve has two lines... I have two valves... the one on the driver side of the manifold has three lines, and the one on the passenger side has two lines... mine don't look quite like his picture... my car is an '82 GL... driver's side: the three lines go directly into hard lines... can I plug all of these? one of them ties into a line back to the evap canister by the wheel well... one of them ties into the disty line and the carb vac... don't remember where the other one went... passenger side: one of these went to the air cleaner and the other went to a hard line with a cap on the other end... another vac line next to it that also went to the air cleaner seems to be rusted shut and I can't find where it goes (stupid plastic carb shielding)... you can see it there at the bottom of the pic to the left of the disty line... it seems to me that anything connected to hard vac line could be removed and the disty line taken directly to one of the vac lines on the front of the carb (probably the port it currently hooks into with the hard line and canister line)... ... his thread also mentions air control valves and later the metering port vacuum control valves so I assume these are the same things... however, I don't have the two little round jobbers, I've got one large canister looking thing with four lines going to two solenoids that are wired... my setup: you can see the canister thing on the left with two lines from the middle and two on top... they run into those wired towers in the middle and are connected to the spade plugs on the lower right... three of the lines run to those towers, and one runs to the carb... and one of the tower lines runs to a similar port on the other side of the carb... these seem like they could be the metering ports... dunno... ... so, can I just remove all of these systems and still function normally? hard vac lines, canister thing, towers and wiring, and thermo vacuum valves? if so do I just plug the carb ports and evap canister vac link? I think a weber would be so much simpler... (: --Spiffy

that's an awesome off-roader... those are some nice welds... and it looks like you've got some good fab equipment on hand... definitely looks like a fun car... --Spiffy

that's a nice rig... looks like a good time... take a trail buddy with you so you can try more daring roads... no fun getting stuck without somebody to pull you out... this is great! hehe! --Spiffy

ooo, purdy... --Spiffy

not good! I have to keep the pedal to the floor on the ea81 until it warms up... with the pedal to the floor it runs around 1500 rpm, rough... after that all is great... I think I'm using a ton of fuel during that warm up time because my mileage is the suck right now... need to figure out what's causing it... I'd much rather be inside where it's warm while I wait for it to warm up... it was about 5°... but I think anything too far below freezing makes it not idle when cold... could my cold idle circuit be frozen or something? --Spiffy

what car do you drive, and how far is your weekly drive? maybe you never see them serviced or in the yard because they're too reliable... (: --Spiffy

you should join the Social Group that SoobieKoralli created on here... Quick Links menu, then Social Groups... don't know if you have to be invited or can just join... I'm probably driving the only reef blue ea81 in the state, so I'll be easy to see... I'm sure we'll have to wait until summer to see the DMC... lots of those back where I lived in california... --Spiffy

um, a slight hesitation might be normal, but not bucking and jerking... I had a bucking and jerking problem with my Fozzy, but it turned out to just be oily plug wires... was without the ac on, and only at low rpm under a load... richie figured that one out for me... as usual... (: --Spiffy

sounds like you're the closest member to me... there's a few svx's on craigslist for sale... one of them yours? a brat eh? yeah, get that thing going so we can go play off road... I'm loving this snow... looking for any excuse to go out for a drive... as for pics, you'll need a place to host them, like photobucket or the like, or you can upload them to the USMB photo section (click Quick Links, Pictures and Albums, but they may need to be resized)... you can get more help on that in the Site Help and Suggestions forum... --Spiffy

I agree that you just have to drive them until they develop a personality... currently I have: '00 Forester = Red (named after Red Foreman on That 70's Show, but it's also red colored) '82 wagon = Handy Smurf (blue like a smurf, and handy because it always runs) have had: '81 hatch = Bert (the happy silver subaru) '85 wagon = Earnie (although they weren't roommates) '92 loyale = no name, no personality, didn't own it long '88 wagon = Pearl (she was white) '98 Imp wagon = Peter (it just seemed appropriate) only the loyale was an automatic... so just give it some time, and the personality and name will come to you some day... --Spiffy

with the fan going on and off normally the thermostat should be good... your dash gauge might not be accurate... lousy grounds and whatnot... you should see it change when the fan comes on, since that's when the thermostat will be releasing all the hot/cold water into the system... I'm thinking your heater core is clogged... I had to flush mine out... garden hose trick works good, just don't turn it on full blast and put ALL that pressure into your core... just push enough water through until it starts resisting, then push it through the other side... --Spiffy