Legacy777

Here's some video of the car on the dyno. I unfortunately didn't get any video during the pulls. Please right click and save as. (8.46mb) http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/media/legacydyno1.avi (1.52mb) http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/media/legacydyno2.avi

I don't really have much advice on the specific tires, but have you checked out tirerack or discount to read the reviews posted?

Here's some numbers for the one sheet I found quickly 22.46 mpg 19.04 mpg 24.62 mpg The last two tanks with the turbo have been 16.52 mpg 20.30 mpg My numbers may be off slightly due to a tad shorter overall tire height then stock.

The only thing that comes to mind would be that the timing belt may have jumped a tooth if you turned it in reverse. If this did happen, it would indicate to me that the tensioner may not be providing adequate tension, and should probably be replaced. I'd look there, since it doesn't sound like you changed anything else that could have affected things.

An exhaust leak might affect mileage slightly, but shouldn't be too noticable. How much of a drop are you seeing? You mentioned you smelled gas. Was it a raw gasoline smell? Or exhaust smell?

I think I have some laying around. I'll look this evening.

I'm not sure if the older gen stuff is the same as the newer. If it's not, you may be able to. If it is the same or similar you may or may not be able depending or not if you fab up your own bracket. I sort of think the fork for the hyd. setup is different, which may also be the reason they change the pivot point.

Not sure where Fayetteville is in relation to Teague's Auto, but they sell subaru performance & OEM/used parts. I'm not sure if they do service. If not, they'd probably be able to recommend someone to you. www.boxer4racing.com You may also want to post in the meet & greet forum too.

Here are the factory manul pages. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt3.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt4.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt5.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt6.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt7.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt8.jpg Also, here's pics from my timing belt job http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt It's pretty straight forward. The thing most people screw up on is aligning the crank shaft gear with the front arrow instead of the mark on the back of the timing gear. If you're just doing the belt and no seals, you should be able to just line up the marks on the pullies & gear with their corresponding marks on the covers & oil pump, and slap a new belt on.

The 1/16" measurement is circumferance correct? I'll have to check my manuals regarding the 12ohms, but if they're both were that way, they're either both ok, or both bad. The speed sensor in the extension housing is VSS1. VSS2 is in the combination meter in the dash. It shouldn't matter about the ratio as long as the front and rear are the same. The biggy that leads me to believe it's the wiring, the duty c solenoid, or something else is the fact that inserting a fuse in the FWD fuse holder does nothing to alleviate the problem. If the duty c solenoid is functioning correctly, when it receives 12v it stays open 100% of the time. This allows the line pressure to bleed off, and not go to the clutch packs, which in turn gives you 0% torque split to the rear wheels. If something in the FWD fuse circuit, ie wiring, or duty c solenoid is not working, then the problem will still exist. Just a shot out of the dark, but did you check to see that you had +12v at one side of the FWD fuse holder while the car is running? If not, you may have a problem there.

There wasn't a 98 loyale. Do you mean legacy? There really wasn't a "guard" from the factory, just an under engine plastic cover to help with areodynamic drag losses. If it's a 98 legacy, and you want to replace the cover, a cover from a 95-99 legacy should work.

Yeah, an n/a EJ22 should have no problem hitting mid 20's. When my car was FWD & automatic (higher final drive ratio) and I drove sanely, I'd get high 20's or low 30's on the highway. With the AWD & 5MT and in town, 23-26 was sort of the normal. I think I've got some papers of my old mileage if you're interested.

Guys....let's take the whole government/big brother thing to OT please.

The cryo-treating process will improve rotor longevity. You won't really see any braking benefits. I still think it's very beneficial for street use, especially since the rotors on the first gen legacy are a little small. With better brake pads, you're going to raise the temps of the rotors, and you end up with vibration issues. So do as you want.....

My EJ22T is virtually stock. Other turbo legacy guys don't see much better....if you run separate engine management, you could probably get better.

I would check the wiring of the duty C solenoid. Since it happened after swapping extension housing, I would look at the wiring going from the TCU to the transmission. You may have wiring that is failing, and as it heats up, resistance increases. If you don't want to test it, or if testing is a pain, try running a separate wire for the duty c solenoid. Other thing I might recommend if you have a laptop is seeing what the ECU sees via a Vikash's scan tool. http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/bcbfscan/ I don't see how the TPS or air suspension could affect the torque bind. If your VSS's are acting up, that could attribute to some issues. How "close" are your tire diameters?

What vehicle are you wanting to do this on? On the newer gen subarus, there are two different types of clutch engagement systems, pull & push. The pull style is all hydraulic. The push style was cable & hydraulic. To convert a push style to hydraulic, you will need a hydraulic pedal box, clutch master cylinder, clutch lines, clutch slave cylinder, (I think the clutch fork is different too), and any associated misc hardware. You'll also need to change the pivot point for the clutch fork. There's two bosses in the transmission. For the hydraulic setup, you just have to move it to the other position. I don't know if it's tapped or not.

The turbo radiator is taller, and without modifying the lower radiator support, it's not going to fit. I don't feel like messing with that. I'm running a lower ratio of anti-freeze & water as well as redline water wetter. I have not seen any issues what so ever, temps are maintaining where they need to be. If I find that I'm running warm, I'll probably look at a custom two row n/a sized radiator, instead of the one row.

After running lots of different rotors, including OEM, cheapos, and brembros, I still like the OEM rotors the best. However the best money you can spend on rotors is to cryo-treat them. I've been running a set of cryo'd rotors since the summer of 02 and no "warping"

Firstly, the FWD struts are inline with the axle. The AWD ones are offset back and raised slightly. Therefore height will be different. The AWD strut body is smaller. However irregardless of height, the way the metal at the bottom of the strut is bent will not fit on the rear FWD spindle. I tried it when I did my AWD swap. I was just going to use the rear AWD struts on the rear FWD spindles on the donor car, so it rolled. I ran into the issues I mentioned, so I had to swap the rear AWD springs on the rear FWD struts, so they would bolt up to the rear FWD spindles.

4WD & 2WD rear struts are not interchangable.

That's good to know they aren't the same. The FWD TCU probably doesn't have the programming to control the AWD.

It's possible the bulb is not in tightly, something is screwy with the combination meter, or the ECU is going.

The rotors you have that are in the brembro box are not made by brembro. They are manufactured by another company and packaged by brembro. They've been doing this for quite a while. I was told that about the brembros I bought several years ago. I wouldn't really worry about it.

no, the speed sensor is not related to the tachometer. What was the problem that you brought the car in for? It's possible the ECU needs to be reset. If that doesn't work, take it back to them and tell them to fix it, because it wasn't like that when you brought it in.