Legacy777

Here's my timing belt replacement pictures. You should be able to see the marks. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt

Does the clicking noise come from the engine compartment? Have you opened the hood with the AC running? If the compressor is making noise, there's really not much you can do. You could pull the wire at the compressor, and that will disable it though if you just don't want to deal with it.

The instructions on my site for the legacy should work for the impreza as well. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

Thanks! I'll be doing a write up similarly to my AWD & 5MT swap. I'm not going to do a step by step of everything, but will try and do an overview of the main issues.

The stock turbo is a tiny turbo. With a larger turbo mileage will be better. As I mentioned this is just the initial setup....

Glad you got it fixed.

If it happens on every setting it's not the a/c. the a/c compressor only engages when on a/c, a/c max, and the two def settings.

You sure it's not the a/c compressor engaging and disengaging? Is this problem on your 90 legacy? Or a different car?

yeah, change the fluid and see if that helps.....you may want to run some trans tune stuff through it. It's made by the same people that make seafoam. Check out their website for places that sell it. www.seafoamsales.com

You see the aluminum thing on top of the engine in this pic? http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2475.JPG That's the coolant crossover pipe.

Is your 90 SW an automatic or manual trans? The automatics got the 3-pin rotary IAC valve. the manual trans cars got the 2-pin recipricating valve. If you have the correct valve, you may want to try getting a used one from a junkyard and swapping it in. Have you tried clearing the codes and seeing if the IAC code comes back?

Pretty sure it's the body harness.

Are they getting plugged up, or is the injector bad...meaning they don't show the correct resistance across the terminals? I'd probably just try and find a set of lower mileage ones in a junkyard and swap them in, or just hold onto them if you have any more fail.

Honestly, I really don't have any idea of what sort of boost I'm going to run. It's still up in the air. It'll probably depend too on the turbo, and where its efficiency ranges are. Yeah there are probably some issues with putting down that much power through the transmission. I may/hoping will be alright, but I'll just have to wait and see. I won't be doing any AWD clutch drops though. There was some discussion about the cooling system and using the n/a radiator on the legacycentral bbs. I am having zero cooling issues, temps are running fine. I'm running just shy of a 50/50 mix, and redline water wetter. Unless I have issues, which I don't think I will, I'm not going to worry about it. This last time it was $50 for 3 runs and a/f ratio monitoring. Thanks for the comments guys!

Yeah, I've got a dyno chart from the n/a ej22 motor. Remember it's a completely different motor. Also, it's a different dyno, so you really can't do an apples to apples comparison. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/legacydyno.jpg Yeah I kept track of all the costs. With all the performance parts and rebuild I've got just a little over $7,000 into it. I'll do a write up like I did with the AWD & 5MT conversion when I get some time.

I don't know the exact depth. You may want to check crutchfield....they may know.

Thanks guys! Yeah it's a pretty fun car to drive around. This is the beginning though. With a larger turbo & injectors, upping the boost, and tuning, I don't see any problem with putting out another 100 hp with the setup I have. muwahahaha

About 5 seconds. Here's logs from my dyno runs. The battery on the laptop died on the first run, so I just have the last two. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/techinfo/pplogging2.xls

Some of the first gen legacy guys have put complete outback struts/springs on their legacy to raise it slightly. Regarding the lifter....have you recently changed your oil? You could try running some seafoam in your oil to try and dislodge any junk that got stuck in the lifter.

One end of the heater hose hooks up to the coolant crossover pipe on top of the engine. The other end hooks up to a line on the pump. To flush the engine out pretty good, just remove the top and bottom radiator hoses, take the garden hose and put it in the top radiator hose, and that will flush everything out of the engine. It won't really get the heater core.....but if you're that picky, you could just remove the heater core lines and flush it out. I suppose if you want to use the kit. Hook it to the heater core line going to the coolant crossover pipe.

No, the mount depth is not 1". I don't know the exact mount depth, but what I was saying is that I have 1" spacers to give me a larger mount depth so that the back of the speaker doesn't hit the window when it's down. I looked at it.....looked alright, but I've never heard of them before....

Or the low voltage isn't enough to engage the relays.

I'm not sure about the 95-99 engines, but there were differences of sensors between the MT & AT engines. The sensors matched the ECU. On the 95-99, I don't think they did that. I honestly had thought that the 95 had the single port, however there are a few people that have said their 95 has the dual port. I think 95 may have been a bubble year....where they had both the single and dual port exhaust heads.....don't quote me....just a guess.

http://techinfo.subaru.com You may be able to find out the info you need on crutchfield.com. They may have the radio pin outs and connector diagram. Also, some people on this board or http://forums.nasioc.com/forums may have some info.

Not really....they just don't want people paying for 3 days and d/l all the manuals.