Legacy777

You have a 2.2 liter engine. It is non-interference.

So you're putting a used auto in correct? Unless you plan to replace anything inside the used AT you're putting in, you shouldn't really need anything else. Removing the AT is a little bit of a pain. You might want to get a tranny jack, and have someone around to help The only thing I'd probably recommend you replace is the speedo cable base piece http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/speedocablebase.jpg They are known for going out, and are pretty cheap to replace. Do you know what year and model car the transmission is coming out of? Is your legacy AWD? If so, you really need to make sure the final drive ratio is the same. If you post the Tranny model codes, I can probably help you verify that. Where in Texas are you from?

This may or may not be of some use http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/coolingfanwiringdiag.jpg

Yeah, there's two. The first gen legacies had two temp sensors, the smaller (green) one goes to the dash gauge. The brown one goes to the ECU.

The injectors are a pain to remove. The best way to remove them is to squirt some penetrating oil around the seals, and twist them. The twisting works about the best to remove them. That's a pretty substantial difference in mileage between city & highway. Are you doing a lot of short trips for city driving?

Yeah I added it sort of because and the turbo. The mystery part ties the PCV system into the turbo inlet piping. It was just an adapter. Hahahaha....yeah...I take cash & money order

Here's a pic of the coolant temp sensor. It's under the passenger side intake manifold http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2477.JPG However, if the fans aren't coming on with the AC, then I doubt it's the sensor. I'd check the electrical connection to the fans, and the fan relays.

No, the 91 MY tranny will not work.

It's not a touring wagon. The touring wagon specifically has the turbo engine, and did not come in a five speed. The GT was the only wagon with the raised roof, did not come with a turbo engine, and is different then the touring wagon.

Are you talking about the legacy axles or RX axles being different lengths? The legacy axles are the same length, that I know for sure. The axle stubs in the legacy (and probably RX) VLSD however are not the same length.

They did not make a 5spd touring wagon. The numbers from subaru on production amounts are bs. Dave and a few others have done a 5spd conversion. I've done one on my 90 sedan www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap I'd suggest checking out www.bbs.legacycentral.org You'll find tons of info about the touring wagon and first gen legacy.

I'm posting what I replied to your pm, so others will have the info as well. I've got a parts book for the first gen legacies 90-94. There are a fair amount of options/trim levels between the different models. Despite this, they utilize the same transmission, hence the same transmission model code. I'd rather not scan all that information in. If you are looking for a replacement transmission with the same final drive ratio, you'd want one from a 91 AT turbo, 92-94 AT turbo, or 92-94 AT n/a. 91 Turbo AT TZ102ZJ1AA 92-94 normally aspirated AT TZ102ZA2AA 92 Turbo AT TZ102ZJ2AA 93-94 Turbo AT TZ102ZJ3AA The above codes are the different transmission models that will have the same final drive ratio, 3.90

Just curious, what year legacy is your legacy? Which axles are to your legacy, and which ones are for the RX?

On the VLSD diffs, the stubs I don't think can be changed. I guess I'm confused as to why you don't just use the appropriate axles which match the diff. The splines and everything on the hub should be identical as long as the rear end is the same, ie r160 to 160, etc.

The passenger side will be slightly higher then then driver's side. This keeps from blinding on-coming traffic.

I rebuilt an ej22t motor and swapped it into my car. I finished everything up this past weekend http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t The subaru oil coolers are pretty straight forward to install. I believe I have some pictures in there. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/20/ The cooler attaches to where the oil filter goes, there's a longer tube that screws into the block, and the coolant comes off the block through a fitting that replaces a block plug. Take a look at the pics.

The rotors are 260mm in diameter. Those are for the non-turbos.The oil cooler I put on is a stock subaru oil filter, and can be found on the foresters and a few other cars. I've actually got a n/a oil cooler I thought would work with the turbo setup, but it won't clear the cross pipe. If your idle air control valve is similar to the US ones, there should only be one gasket.

Just curious....which sensors were causing the check engine light?

The tranny is from a 92-94 turbo legacy. So the final drive ratio is 3.900

www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

It's all about cost....money drives a lot of things in design. As an engineer we want to put everything in we can to make it the best, but the bean counters pull things to make them more affordable or improve manufacturing time, etc etc.

Yeah I'd say that's probably the dropping resistor for the auto trans. Only other thing I can think of is a DRL resistor.... You can always disconnect it. If you get the power light or AT light to blink, then you know it's the dropping resistor.

check out www.bbs.legacycentral.org Matt Monson should be able to answer your question. I believe the ej18 heads will increase your compression ratio, by how much I don't know. Another thing to note is the EJ18 has slightly smaller valves too. I don't recall if it was just the intake or exhaust, or both.

I should be able to look up those numbers in my parts book this evening and tell ya if the tranny came out of a 1st gen legacy or not.

What you're describing is normal. If you want to test the valve, remove it, and try and blow through the valve. You shouldn't be able to. If you use a hand held vacuum pump, you should be able to open the valve and will be able to blow through it.