Legacy777

The big pipe under the intake manifold is the coolant cross pipe. There is a pipe that comes up from the water pump. There is small line that comes off of that. It goes to the throttle body, then from the throttle body to the IAC valve, and then back into the cross pipe. Your leak is somewhere in that piping. Check all the smaller piping/rubber lines.

If you have a spare MAF sensor, try swapping it out. I had a similar issue that turned out to be the MAF sensor. Have you checked the ECU codes?

You still must have some form of heat exchanger. You can not inject CO2 directly into your intake. The kit by DEI offers two main places for cooling, the intake and fuel. Take a look at this link: http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sc&cid=1 Specifically the intake http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sp&pid=4

Is the kit injecting CO2 directly into the intake manifold? If so, I see no way that can be beneficial.... So the cam belt is off about 4 teeth from what it's supposed to be? Any header that fits the 2.5 liter will work on your 2.2 liter. Borla makes a header, and there's a few others. It will require some custom piping at the outlet of the header since that changed between the older 2.2's and the newer 2.5's

To remove the plastic trim, there's two screws behind the cup holder, two screws that face upwards (you need to take out the ashtray to get at them). Once those are out, you can remove the plastic trim. The screw in the back of the ashtray. Loosen it slighty, don't unscrew it all the way. Then you can remove the ashtray mount section. The metal cage around the radio has 6 screws. The radio antenna disconnects further down the antenna lead, rather then at the back of the radio.

How badly is it rubbing. When you spin the wheel by hand, does it keep the wheel from moving. What do you mean you've adjusted the brake shoes to the maximum?

They do pretty well. Get some decent snow tires and you'll have an extremely capable winter car.

I pull the hose off the pcv valve and lower vent line. I put the hose back on the pcv valve but upside down. Pour a little bit of seafoam in the hose, then put my finger over the end of it so the pcv valve opens and sucks in the seafoam.

The knock sensor is not behind the power steering pump or alternator.... See the round black thing with the bolt through it. That's the knock sensor http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2481.JPG

Mike, You posted this question multiple times in multiple forums, please bring back the orignal thread if you wish to continue conversation about it, or did not feel that you got your questions answered. Thanks

Yeah, they're pretty easy to replace. If you look straight down just to the right of the throttle body (looking from in front of the engine), it'll be down there.

The EJ22 speed sensor sends a 0 or 5V to the ECU. So depending on what the older ones were like, you may be able to use it. If you check the ECU codes, it should throw a VSS code if it's not getting the signal. So that would be a way to confirm that may be the issue.

Can you provide a little more information about the problem. When did it start happening, did you change anything...any other info? Does the engine stall? I'm not sure how speed is related to the problem unless that's when your rpms go above that point, but I would assume they're going to be above that point when you accelerate anyway.

Take it off. If the bolts are still intact. Just take the shield off. If not, take a cut off wheel or torch and cut the heat shield off.

Yeah, they're a little flat looking.

How does the car run? If it runs good when cold and when warm, it's probably not the coolant temp sensor. Does your throttle body have a screw like this on it? http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/tb/ If so, see if it's screwed in all the way....if so unscrew it a little. You can pull the battery for 30 min or so to clear the ECU. It's possible running it without the airbox caused issues, but I doubt it. Wait.....did you use all the sensors/ECU and such for the EJ22??

Insert a fuse in the FWD fuse holder. If the rumbling goes away, you have torque bind. You can search for more info on it. But check to make sure you have all four of the same tires, also check tire pressure, and change the transmission fluid. BTW, your automatic doesn't have a transfer case. The AWD is handled in the rear extension housing. The clutch packs can wear out, and need to be replaced.....I would assume that's what your mech. was talking about.

Yeah....it the visors had a real stupid design. Let's make the wear piece out of plastic so it rounds off after time and the visors don't stay up......

I'd also recommend keeping the car. There are some small incidental stuff that you will need. You can keep your ECU, there are some other issues. Check out my AWD & 5MT swap write up. A lot of the issues can be found on there www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

I've done two crank seals by putting them on the oil pump first and then installing the oil pump. They've been fine. I agree that if you aren't careful you might screw it up, but the ones I did are fine.

In your geographic area....I'd offer 3500-4000 if in excellent shape. No more. How many miles are on it? They are good cars, but they are not that rare. Subaru has some stupid ridiculous numbers for these cars. They're total hogwash. Check out www.bbs.legacycentral.org There's more cars on that board then what Subaru said was made.

That small hose after the throttle body is the canister purge line. My reasoning for not using it is because on the older throttle bodies there is some form of black goo around the throttle plate. I've been told it helps reduce carbon deposits, but I can attest it also helps seal the throttle plate. On the older TB's there was a bypass needle valve. When I got rid of the black goo, the car idled extremly high. I didn't notice the screw until I checked evrything. I screwed the screw down a little, and everything was fine. On the throttle bodies without the screw, you'd probably be ok if you got rid of the stuff....but for me.....I'm rather wary about touching that stuff. So I'll use the PCV valve.

Take the car some where else. This guy either doesn't know what he's doing, or he's trying to screw you. Here are the prices I paid for all the parts that you really should replace, or would be "affected" Timing belt: $43.16 Idler gear: $55.26 Tensioner pulley $83.36 Idler pullies: (2) $59.96 each Tensioner: $74.90 Water pump: $75.56 (note: this price is for a turbo water pump, yours will probably be slightly less) Cam seals: probably around $6 each Crank seal: $5.33 So we're at around $470 right now....and we're using Subaru genuine parts. I can pretty much guarantee he wasn't planning on buying all the stuff I listed above.

Try www.subarugenuineparts.com They are a subaru dealership that sells parts online. They are the cheapest online dealer I have dealt with (and always cheaper then your local subaru dealer)....and I've used about 4 or 5 of them now.

Just a few questions/comments for you. The cats don't really hinder performance that bad, and in most cases if you have a big open area that was cat, performance is going to be worse. If you replace that section with pipe, I can see a benefit there. Otherwise, you really didn't gain much by knocking out the cat. What did you do to advance camshaft timing? Why did you fiddle with the throttle cable tension? The voltage regulator on these cars is in the alternator. Did you remove/alter that one and install the aftermarket one? Porting and polishing the heads will definitely help on top end power. The MSD DIS 2 ignition is a very good investment. Myself and others with it, have been very happy with it. I don't really follow your CO2 kit idea. Why would you want to inject CO2 into the intake/throttle body? CO2 is non-combustible, and by injecting it into the engine, your decreasing the amount of oxygen available for combustion. Plus it's being injected after the MAF sensor, so that's just going to play havoc on things, and just not work. If you are trying to cool the intake charge with CO2, I have seen a "ball" like object that is inserted into the intake track. CO2 is then injected into that. The intake air goes around it, and cools. It is said to have very little pressure drop across it. Which is good, and why you don't see intercoolers on n/a cars, because they add pressure drop, and since you're typically using air to cool the intake charge, you really can't get much cooler unless you're using a refrigeration or cryogenic system.