Legacy777

If the coolant temp sensor is bad bad...yeah it should show up. However it's not uncommon for them to get lazy and not work right...however not throw a CEL. I know here in the states they're not overly expensive, so if someone's in doubt, I usually just tell them to replace it. You may have other cooling system issues, do you know the condition of the water pump? I'd suggest getting an OEM thermostat. Trust me....I had some weird issues when I had the non-oem thermostat in. Everything went back to normal when I put an OEM back in. I'd really suggest doing that first before you do anything else. Also, did you flush the cooling system out good....either with a flush or fresh water?

may want to take a look at my thread on the bbs http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=14378&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

David, was the thermostat you used an OEM thermostat, or one from a parts store? You might want to try www.bbs.legacycentral.org also, check out my site. It has instructions on how to get codes and run diagnostics on the legacy. It should be the same for yours, even though you have a 1.8 liter.

picture http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2481.JPG

damn california cars......that's crazy all the crap they're getting....it can't be good for the car.

hmm....must be having issues with my network connection at home. Try again a little later. I'd try and talk to someone who knows more about this type of electrical setup and see if they think you really need an upgraded alternator.

****.....looks like I'll be keeping my old cars for a LONG time...haha. This technology is sort of like black boxes in airplanes......however the big difference is real time data that technically anyone can access vs. a black box you get the data pertaining to an incident....only if there is an incident. ehh....guess we'll just have to wait and see what happens.

Well the outside is ok....inside is disgusting.....I could clean it up....but the real issues are to get it so it's mechanically sound, and to the point I feel comfortable to drive around every day, I'd need to replace the cv axles, all belts, hoses, timing belt, seals, struts, and shifter bushings. that's easily over $1000 for just parts. I need the parts from the car for my AWD & MT swap anyway....so this will be the donor car. Also....if you haven't seen my legacy normally....I'm a little anal when it comes to clean and stuff.....

I guess one thing to note....how much draw are you planning to have on these batteries, how often do you plan to cylce them like this, etc. If it's not very often, the stock system should be fine to charge it back up.

I got mine through one of the guys on www.nasioc.com his board name is ruiner. He's in Dallas. If you register on that board and send him a PM, he should be able to give you all the info/prices. Tell him I sent ya to him. I think I paid $300 something for the alternator. Here's some pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/hoalternator1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/hoalternator2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/hoalternator3.jpg Here's the alternator birth sheet http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/techinfo/HOalternatortest.jpg I had to do some extending of the main feed wires for my car, but for the newer cars, all you should have to do is re-wire the plug, which shouldn't be a big deal.

you can find everything you wanted to not know here www.need-desire.com

I'll keep my old cars if it ever comes to that.....or figure out a way to disable it.....I like my privacy.

Well....everyone has their own version of POS.....being as anal as I am...and what my car looks like.....plus the pictures don't do the dirt and nastiness justice...hahaha.

you may want to check out www.bbs.legacycentral.org and the www.rslibertyclub.org They are geared more for the first gen legacies....however they may be able to point you in a direction to get the wiring diagram you need.

that honestly would be a question better suited to the guys on www.subaru-svx.net

individual coil pack for each plug

Not all subaru's come with On-star......am I correct in saying that? I'd question the actual capabilities of On-star and what it actually "can" & "can't" do.

ahh.....I just did 1100 miles in 18 driving hours (which included gas, food, & pit stops) in a POS, mechanically questionable car with NO AC. pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/legwagon I think my record for cross-country (eastern PA to seattle ~ 3000 miles) is 2 1/2 days driving time...again including gas, food, & pit stops.

Hate to burst your bubble....but throttle by wire simply means it's controlled by an electronic servo, rather then a physical cable. Under the current technology there is NO WAY in hell the police would be able to do something like this. Your ECU would have to input some form of RF signal. You better believe that if something like this happens, the ACLU will be all over it...as well as other groups......the likelihood of it happening is so slim to nothing.....I wouldn't worry about it. But like you said....in ten years...we'll see.

I don't like drive by wire either. Regardless of what people say, I can tell a difference in terms of throttle response.....it's not as immediate as cable IMO.

Oh I agree with that statement. My legacy with the r134a retrofit cools MUCH better then today's cars. It's really in how the system was designed. I'm sure mine would probably work better with R12....but the difference really was pretty negligable. The summer of 01 I had the system recharged with r12. It cooled well. However after doing the retrofit it cooled just as well....

The injectors...at least on the ones I've worked on, aren't exactly the easiest to get out, however you should be able to get them out without damaging the o-rings. From my experience, generic ones don't seem to fit as well.

Most aftermarket head units have a trigger for dimming the head unit when the interior lights come on. I haven't personally seen any aftermarket head units that offer a dimmer feature that works with the stock setup. I believe a lot of that has to do with the fact the amount of juice going to the lighting in the stock head unit was designed and setup by the factory to be the same as the rest of the interior lights. With an aftermarket unit....there's really no way to regulate it will be the same. If your new head unit has a dimming feature to it, yes there is a wire you can hookup to the factory setup that will dim the head unit when the interior dash lights are turned on.

Nope. The first gen legacy had a face lift for the 92 MY. So most body parts from the 90-91 MY's will not work on the 92-94 MY's.

Not that it's right....but just loosen one of the a/c lines....that'll depressurize everything. You'll still need to have a vacuum pulled on the system.