Legacy777

yeah the italian tune-up does work pretty good for those cars who's driver's pampered them

try some seafoam in the crankcase www.seafoamsales.com

It's a piece of cake..... First remove the three screws around the speaker grill. Next pop out the little plug below the door handle....remove the screw.......take a small flat head remove the black foam piece at the top of the door handle to reveal a screw. next take that small flathead and press ever so slightly at the pivot point of the door lock button. There are two clips there, one on top, and bottom. And you need to push the clips (up for the top one) (down for the bottom one) to unclip it. Then there is a third clip on the front. Simply hold the door handle open, and push the plastic piece forward.....it should unclip itself.....then wiggle that piece out. Next run your finger around the edges of the door to pop off the little clips.....then when everything's off.....slide the panel up and backwards.....to unhook it from the top......and you'll need to unclip the electrical too. It's easier to do this with the window down btw.

nothing....

To get at the cam seals, you'll need to basically take the timing belt off and do what I did in the second set of pictures. The seals can be a pain to get out. There is a trick to doing it. You have to sort of stick a small flathead screwdriver into the seal and then use the head(or whatever) as a pivot point so you can press towards the head and it pops the seal out. It's rather difficult to explain, but once you figure it out....it'll take less then five minutes to get the actual seal out.....it's just figuring it out.....took me a while banging my head against the wall to figure it out.

you can by the external filter in the retro-fit kit from subaru for like 10-20 bucks......if you want just the filter....it's an arm and leg....go figure. I think the part number is in the sticky in the stuff you need to know forum on the www.bbs.legacycentral.org

Not sure if they're going to have a chiltons or haynes for that one.....you may want to check out their sites to see if it's available. The factory manuals are really nice.....a lot of info, which I prefer. other place you may want to look to d/l some stuff is http://techinfo.subaru.com and yeah.....I much prefer working on subarus then most other manufacturers.....so much easier. I've had my intake manifold off, timing belt off....really wasn't bad here's pics if you want to gander http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt

Replace the knock sensor......it's not very expensive, and the older ones on these legacies tend to crack and short out.....which gives you the code 22. My legacy has been doing the weird idle lately too.....I need to try and pull the IAC valve off and clean it up, to see if that helps.

when you say cylinders 2 & 3.....which ones are you referring to?

FWD's were available in the legacy from 90-95 I believe

yeah a FWD legacy trans should bolt up to the ej20 with no problems.

you mean the steering rack bushings......I assume? There's no bushings for the power steering pump or associated stuff.....only the steering rack. They aren't exactly easy to replace.....you'll have to get under the car, loosen the caps that hold the existing bushings to the rack, and then wiggle the old ones out....and put new ones in......pb blaster or some other lubricant is needed when uninstalling and installing the bushings.

find a used trans and stick it in.....much cheaper.

No you can't tow with the rear wheels on the ground with the FWD fuse IN. The automatic AWD cars really should be towed with all four wheels off the ground. I believe the owner's manual says you can tow with all four wheels on the ground for a short distance, at a low speed.....but I suggest double checking before doing that.

When you connected both connectors (D-check) did you follow the procedure exactly, because it should cause the CEL to blink all clear before you even start the car. If it doesn't, you need to check that code. If you can only drive the car with the connectors connected, you definitely have a problem.

have you looked in your owner's manual? should have the info in there.

If you have a new AT MAF.....you should try and sell it.....you should be able to recoup some of the money you lost.

Forgive me for being a little harsh....but don't people bother checking links out? The manuals I have on my server ARE the FSM's from subaru. As I mentioned they are not fully complete, but contain the engine & electrical sections, which are probably two of the more useful sections.

yes there is a separate dipstick for the front differential. The differential dipstick is on the pass side. The atf dipstick is on the driver's side. I suggest looking in your owner's manual for the correct info. If you don't have one.....you can d/l mine that I've scanned. A full pdf copy is at the bottom, or you can look at individual images. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/owner

it can be done.....I'm planning on doing it this summer. You'll need hubs from awd car, gas tank, drive line, rear sub frame, dif, axles, struts, and probably a few others things.

I suggest doing a search....... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8399&highlight=legacy+manual It's not everything, but should have the more important info.

If your fpr theory doesn't solve the problem, it may be the MAF sensor. I had an intermittant stalling problem, which was finally linked to the MAF sensor.

www.rceng.com

Yes the air suspension typically fails and they're very expensive to replace. It's much cheaper to swap it out for regular springs and struts.

Unless you have added a turbo kit, there is no need to upgrade your injectors. The only thing you could do to them is have them balanced & blue printed, which equals out the flow rate on each and improves spray pattern.