Legacy777

Welcome to the USMB. I added a link for the video and moved your thread over to the transplant forum. It may get some additional comments here. If I did the math right, that's about 18-19 mpg. That's not horrible, but I agree, that's not great for how light the beetle is. That tube is probably for the canister purge valve. It's for emissions purposes. You can just plug that tube. Is it this tube? http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/TB/DCP_1511.JPG What are you running for engine management? The stock computer? You need to have knock sensor hooked up. If you are running the stock computer and don't have the knock sensor hooked up, that is probably one of the reasons you're getting poor gas mileage. The ECU will retard timing to avoid any chance of detonation. This will hurt gas mileage and will cause you to lose power. Do you have the check engine light hooked up? If not, I'd suggest wiring a bulb to that pin on the ECU, and then checking the ECU for stored codes to see what's in there that could be giving you issues. Any more info you can provide about your setup will help in diagnosing. Is it sticker on the engine or in the casting? It sounds like the water pump isn't able to keep the required flow moving through the system and it's stagnating at that high point. How much additional hose did you add to run the radiator in the front? What size hose? Depending on what you have setup, you may have to put some sort of electrical booster pump in-line to keep the system from stagnating at idle. I don't have them off the top of my head now, but do have some documentation at home. The CTS uses a standard Bosch NTC calibration curve. I'll try and get you the gas gauge and CTS info when I get home. I run 10w30. With miles that are on it, I'd probably stick with 10w30 or 10w40. The lack of backpressure shouldn't be an issue.

Welcome to the USMB. The problem is more than like the resistor pack. There is a resistor pack that provides the slow fan speeds. It is located in the AC evaporator box behind the glove box. You need to remove the glove box, two screws at the base, and then you should be looking at the resistor pack. It's held on by two screws. You can probably get a used one at a junkyard or from someone on the board. You can see what I'm describing in this picture. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/accomp/DCP_2945.JPG

It's likely the throw out bearing or pilot bearing. There's a chance it could be something more, but I'd probably lean towards that. With the miles you have on the car, I'd suggest replacing the clutch, throw out bearing, & pilot bearing. Clutch jobs can vary, but I'd expect a couple hundred dollars. Hopefully someone else can give you a little more clarity on the cost.

One thing to note is that you may not get the refresh rates to be very valuable other than just to show the information. Just something to think about, depending on what your ultimate goal is.

That big screw on the top is a needle valve. If you have it completed closed off (CW) is the car running alright? If not, just un screw it a little until the idle seems about right. What you would really need to do is be able to monitor the idle air control valve's duty percent. Once it's in the range it's supposed to be, you could stop adjusting the needle valve screw. If you have a laptop and are adventurous you can use this program to monitor the ECU paramters. http://www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/b10scan/ Other wise, do it by feel Make all adjustments when the car is fully warmed up.

I don't recall how much I paid for mine. I bought it off ebay. So it's whatever the norm was at the time. As mentioned the biggest drawback is the software. You've got to have software with these interface adapters. The free stuff does the basic stuff, but not much more. If all you're looking for is the basic stuff.....a hand held scan tool is much more convenient than dragging out the laptop with software. If you want to get into the logging and other stuff, then the computer based setup is better, but more expensive.

I had bought one of these a couple years ago for my 97 Impreza. I think mine was the model below the 327. As such it didn't have the USB cable, just serial and the elm adapter. If you're wanting to do something with software and possible logging with a computer, I'd go the ELM route vs. the hand held unit. But the hand held unit is probably cheaper and easier to use.

Glad to hear seafoam may have worked. I'd be curious to see your before & after compression test numbers.

Yeah....I'd agree. Based on the symptoms it sounds like the MC. There may be some trash in the MC resevoir that has made it into the MC and is sometimes interfering with the seal. Over time this will wear the seals down in the MC and cause the problem all the time. This is a good example of why it's important to change your brake fluid annually so dirt and moisture suspended in the brake fluid does not precipitate out as the brown nasty "junk" sometimes found on the bottom of MC resevoirs that have not had fluid changes in a while.

I would probably use the WRX banjo bolt. However it shouldn't really matter.

Forgive the ignorance, but what exactly are you calling BPT?

Can you get some more information. Does it shake upon startup, or does it shake when driving away? Is the shaking seem to corelate to engine rpm, or possibly speed if driving?

Welcome to the USMB. Do you have a wideband O2 sensor? If not, I'd be a little hesitent to crank up the boost without knowing what my air-fuel ratios are doing.

Well keep us posted on how things turn out.

They'll only replace the one that has problems.

I'm going to move this thread to the retrofitting forum as it may get more responses there.

ARP does list one, but not sure if I'd bother with it though.

There's info in the sticky in this forum. I've also got instructions on my site http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

It would swap over. Not sure how the electronics/electrical side will cooperate. You may need address that. Other thought is the 2000 outback is going to be heavier than your 95, and may feel a little less "peppy" than your 95 did.

The stock water pump gasket should not need any rtv sealant on it.

That's a good point. He may want to put a fuel pressure gauge on or take it to a shop to check the fuel pressure. The fuel pump will kick on for 3 seconds prior to starting. So even without starting the motor, fuel pressure should be around 30 psi or so.

Yes, the fuel regulator is on the passenger side fuel rail. Have you rechecked the codes since the CEL coming back on? There should be a code stored in the ECU. Based on the additional symptoms......you may have have a clogged catalytic converter. Other thing I'd suspect is the MAF sensor. It really sounds like you're not getting enough air or fuel into the engine....and/or it's not leaving the engine fast enough. So I'd check the fuel, MAF sensor, and the cats. As for testing the cats, you could try removing the center mid pipe as it has a cat in it. There's still another cat in the front header piping. That would be difficult to bypass. If you have or can find a spare piping to test, that'd probably be the easiest.

I don't think it would matter, but we'll see if Jamie replies.

My ex had an 06 Outback wagon with the 6 cyl, and it didn't seem too bad. It would get out of its own way. I never noticed the problem you described.

Welcome to the USMB. Is the car an automatic or manual transmission? When he starts the car up, and it runs badly, if he just lets the car still run, does it get better, or does it only get better if he turns it off and then back on again? Has he tried to drive it when it has been running badly? If so, any other symptoms the car exhibits?