Legacy777

Which one?

They should do that and then some. I had mine up to 130 on level ground on one of the tollroads around houston

I want to just clarify that this is for the rear brakes. The rear backing plate does not do squat for cooling, and it is not easy to replace. The hub must be pressed out of the spindle to slide the backing plate off. The wheel bearing will typically need to be replaced at the same time. Here are some pictures with the dust shield removed from the backing plate. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/08 I do agree that the dust shield does help keep junk out from behind the rotor, but unless you're driving down dirt roads and doing crazy stuff, you should be fine....even in the snow and rain. Lastly, if the actual backing plate, not the dust shield is rusted out, it really should be replaced since the caliper bracket mounts to it. Josh

Don't worry about it. I cut mine off to install larger rotors, and that was about two years ago.

It's one of the "special" model wagons in 94 that had the raised roofs. I'd recommend checking out www.bbs.legacycentral.org for more info on the first gen legacies and mods, etc.

Yes I have a complete write-up on my site www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

bump

I'd recommend teeing in where the stock oil pressure sensor is.

auto trans axles are the same.

you may want to check out http://forums.nasioc.com/forums as well.

bump.

You talking about the bearings in the rear diff, or the bearings in the axle hub. Here's pics of the rear diff & bearings in it. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/reardiff/

Yeah....not sure what you mean. The radiators tend to get a leak in the front of the radiator where the top radiator hose goes in.

Yeah, If you drive any bit agressively, you'll wear evenly. Even if not, you'd still probably be fine.

Is it a wagon? It may be from the lift gate. It also may be from the cross-bars if you do have a wagon and have a rack on top.

It's running rich, and it's burning oil. You've got internal engine issues. Either head related or bottom end related. Do a compression test and see what you come up with. If pressure is low in one cylinder, squirt oil into the cylinder, crank it over and do the test again. If the pressure goes up, you've more then likely have bottom end issues. If pressure doesn't go up, you likely have head issues. There is no "quick fix"

The first gen legacies are peppy for what they are. You may want to give it a tune up. There's really not much you can do cheaply that will give you an amountable hp gains. I'd also recommend checking out www.bbs.legacycentral.org Josh

The whole manual can be d/l here http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1990_Legacy_Owner_Manual_Scans/

Yes the legacy turbo does have a bigger rear anti-sway bar, and does help balance out the car. I'd also recommend some KYB GR2 struts if you haven't replaced the struts.

If there is an AWD sticker on there, they should have known better. As for their liability....not sure. They are of course are going to say it's not our fault, but I don't know for sure.....I think others have had similar experiences.

I've heard taking the headlights out is a pain. You may want to also search/ask this question on www.legacygt.com/forums

I guess it's more or less a turbo legacy.... but it sounds more impressive that it started its life as a FWD AT L.

The seatbelt buzzer should only go off if you disconnect the shoulder belt from the latch. It won't buzz for the lap belt.

Thanks for all the comments & compliments guys! Appreciate it!

I posted pics of the engine stuff a little bit ago http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/td05