heartless

if you don't have any yet, pick up some good wrist braces (ones that are specific to the hand it is being worn on) and wear them! Especially at night. During the day, too, if you can. Have dealt with carpal tunnel and the pain it causes since 1989. Finally had the release surgery on my right hand in 2012. That hand is MUCH better (have other issues now related to an injury) but the left one is still a bother.

10 seconds is not a lot of time, you may simply be taking too long to complete the sequence.

the problem is definitely the cheap after market axles - the audible clicking is a dead giveaway.

personally, i dont use a wrench.. (except maybe to take one off that was put on by someone else) they do not need to be so tight that you need to use a wrench. lubricate the rubber seal with a little dab of clean oil, spin the filter on till it hits bottom, get a good firm grip and turn another half turn or so. Done. And no, I have never had one vibrate loose, either.

wrong place for this - there is a buy/sell/trade section for these kinds of posts

tire balance would have been the first thing i would have had checked.

and lesson learned

the jackstand should go under the subframe. using the pinchweld area where the emergency jack is used is never a good idea - even with the blocks. You want the jackstand positioned in a solid area that will support the weight of the vehicle - the pinchweld is not designed for that.

for plug wires - OE or NGK only. parts store aftermarket wires are known to cause problems

car-part.com

we have one of the harbor freight floor jacks and it will lift your car plenty high enough. It will even lift our dodge 4x4 pu high enough to take a wheel off, and you can get under that on a creeper without lifting it on a jack at all.. only need the jack to pull a wheel.

technically, no, a Subaru does not have a "frame" per se, but they do have "sub-frames" which do rust/rot out. and for the record, there are other places besides the shock towers that can render a car unsafe. My old GL wagon had a front sub-frame problem, and that was why it was taken off the road - motor still ran great, tranny still shifted fine, but it was structurally unsafe.

OOOooo - I would like the exhaust if it is still in good shape! I have a 2002 also

the muffler thing is a total red herring. it is a "single" exhaust system made to look like a dual. forget about that aspect. you could eliminate one of those mufflers completely and still have a fully functional exhaust system. the problem is elsewhere.

ok that is not stock equipment on a subaru. have no idea what that is, or what it is for the location suggests something cooling system related, but sorry, no idea

are you referring to the black tube that I pointed the arrows to? if yes, this is a fairly common failure - this is a coolant tube, and it is still available new, but will also require you to pull the intake to change it (means you will also need intake gaskets) in a Subaru, this is a fairly straightforward job to do and does not take that long - but being this is in a VW bus, you may face other challenges - working space wise.

lol, no, they do not "go every few months or so" if they are fixed correctly the first time. And this issue is most common with the early 2.5s, not the 2.2 that you have. In fact, the 95 2.2 is probably one of the best years for that motor. Not to say that it never happens with a 2.2, but it is fairly uncommon. To start with, where exactly are you seeing the leak from? give us a few more details on the issue.

yes, you can run it without the covers. it wont hurt anything if you dont have them. Just be aware that it leaves your timing belt more vulnerable to debris that could potentially cause problems.

not for durability, no... at least it doesn't seem like it crash testing, yes - got to have those crash test ratings.. aerodynamics, possibly... better air flow means better fuel economy... but long term durability/reliability? yeah, not so much... just like everything else, cars these days are made to be "disposable" - 3 to 5 yrs (or basically as long as your loan or lease lasts)

sounds like it is suspension related... inspect the coil springs carefully - possibly a broken coil? 95 is a good one for breaking the sway bar end links - the 95 I had had a broken one when i got it. the only other thing i can even remotely suggest would be the top hat bearing going out. the problem there is you have to pull the strut assembly out and disassemble to verify

just because you have that option where you are does not mean everyone has that option. Different areas, dude. Just like there is no such thing as a "pull n pay" junkyard near me.. customers are NOT allowed out in the junk yards around here anymore. I can not go find a car, pull the part I want and go pay for it. Nope.. have to go to the front counter, ask for what i need, wait for one of their employees to go get it (if they even have it) and pay premium prices for that privilege. and there are very few shops around here that will do the kind of work you are suggesting anymore, either. That is just the way it is now. Be grateful you still have that option, but also realize that not everyone does.

you could still use the larger wheels, but would have to put a lower profile tire on them to clear the spring perch if you are running stock suspension. there are some great on-line tire size calculators out there to help you figure out what size tire you would need to make it work and even keep your speedo/odo very close to correct.

no, as long as all 4 are the same size, the drivetrain could care less.. it will mess with your speedometer/odometer readings, but wont actually hurt anything

the wheels will most likely bolt up, the real question is if there is clearance to the spring perch on the strut. fwiw, i put early gen forester wheels (15") on my 95 Legacy (stock wheel was 14"), but it was also sitting on Forester struts, so there was plenty of clearance.

can't believe no one has asked what year not sure exactly what year it started, but newer models have a bolt on hub with the bearing in it that is a separate piece attached to the knuckle - you can replace just that part rather than screwing around with pressing bearings out/in. The other half just did one on his 06 Outback.