heartless

i would not risk it - look at the axle stubs.. ugh

make sure you have a Subaru thermostat! aftermarket t-stats are not recommended.

start with vacuum lines.. they tend to get hard & brittle with age & heat and don't seal well anymore.

I use the Purolator Pure One filters and found that the spec filter for the Forester's 2.5 was so tiny as to be laughable.. also found that the slightly larger filter spec'ed for the 2.2 would fit quite nicely, so that is what I have been using. No problems at all.

yes, gauges do fail. get the charging system load tested - most chain auto parts stores can do that for you.

like i said, unless there is a specific reason to such as warped or out of spec, there is no need to change them. Rotors don't typically just fail for no reason. On a 6 yr old car, I would not expect them to be out of spec.. warped, possibly, but you would have symptoms of that if they were. if the car were 16 years old, then yeah, i would be more inclined to do the rotors "for safety" (and I have - I drive a 2002 Forester that I did new rotors, pads, drums (rears) and shoes on)

that is insanely high - agree that i would never go to that shop again, for anything. and lets be honest here - unless there is a problem with the rotors (warped) or they are out of spec for turning, there is no real reason to change the rotors, either. I see a most shops around here advertising brake jobs at $129/axle all the time. I don't use them, but just as a reference.. assuming that includes pads, incidentals* & labor.. *incidentals would include lubing the slides, brake fluid, etc... My guess is they get people in with the price, then tell them that they need all new hardware (calipers, rotors, etc) too, to get more money out of marked up parts & labor charges.

the odometer is showing a bit more than 73K... try 123,000 it is a beautiful car, but they tend to have too many problems

you should, and can very easily by going here & entering your vin # https://www.subaru.com/vehicle-recalls/airbags.html

year and model would be helpful.. but most likely you have broken wires in the boot that goes between the body and the hatch. this is pretty common you can find factory service manuals here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

is this year one of the ones under the airbag recall?? has the recall been addressed? you should be able to find out by contacting a dealer with the vin #

open Google type in P0456 (and that is a zero, not a letter "o") hit enter..

ok, I personally do not know how to test the ABS sensors.. or even how to retrieve the codes for that system.. I would start by downloading the service manual for your year from here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ there should be some diagnostic info in that to help you further.

there is no guarantee the cheap one is going to last 5 yrs either.. stop nit picking and clutching at straws.

who told you it was a bad sensor causing the light? there are any number of things that can cause the ABS light to come on. a bad sensor is just one of them a quick check of wiring would be a good place to start - fairly common for one that old to have damaged wires going to a wheel sensor

Yes, it does.. there is parasitic drain on the battery all the time that it is hooked up.. clock memory, various other computerized bits drawing small amounts of power all the time, running or not. The more computerized stuff there is in the vehicle, the more drain there is, the shorter the life of the battery. Heat and cold also affect battery life - even when they are not in actual use. what is with people always thinking they should buy the cheapest thing they can find, then whine & complain about it not lasting or working right? Buy a quality battery of the correct size, take care of it (ei: keep your charging system in good order) and it will last at least as long as that Walmart special, most likely longer.

technically, yes, the tread depth will affect circumference - but.. it is the overall circumference that will affect the tranny operation - you want all 4 tires to be within 1/4" maximum. a donut spare is NOT going to be the same circumference as a regular tire - even if the tread depth is the same you can have two different tires with the exact same tread depth, yet still be different in measured circumference - this happens frequently with different brands - which is why it is always recommended to have all 4 tires be the same brand, model and treadwear on a Subaru.

put the spare on the back - front tires should match, and run with the fuse in place - short term only. fwiw - tread depth has little to do with how the tranny copes - it is circumference that you should be concerned with - the distance around the tire.

most definitely NGK or OEM plug wires only!

do keep in mind that under that rubber liner is the access for the rear strut mounts.. you do not want to make it difficult to get in there in the future.

what brand(s)?? It DOES matter.

LOL, being as you are new here, you have no idea how funny this is to those of us who have been here a long time.. trust me, He was being gentle... in all seriousness tho.. the stock bracket is just a stamped metal piece that bridges the tower and holds the speaker.. there is no such thing as acoustically sealing a speaker in a Subaru. In fact, I don't know of any vehicle - unless it is a really high end luxury boat (Bentley? Rolls Royce?) - that does such a thing.

no, the OEM bracket does not acoustically seal the speaker in the strut tower.. it simply holds it in place. this ain't your high end home stereo system here.

there is supposed to be a bracket that the speaker mounts in, if I am not mistaken..