heartless

standard Legacy will most likely be shorter - i know on the older ones they were.

to be clear, he is talking about the cam markings - not the belt markings - the belt markings take a LOT more rotations to line up again. belt markings are there for convenience during installation only - so you don't have to count teeth.

any of the 90 to 94 tensioners will be fine. that part did not actually change during those years. in fact, it did not change until 96 i think..possibly later. the 95 i had a few years ago had the exact same style. it should come pre-compressed and held with a pin. do not pull that pin until belt is installed properly and the tensioner is bolted in place - pulling the pin is the last thing you do. one of the counts is actually a half tooth.. it is 44 and 40.5 (go back to first page and find Rampage's post with the counts shown) on rotation, yes it will change.. all that matters is that things are properly lined up when initially setting it.

really? you pulled up a 5yr old post for that?

there are also marks on the cam pulleys themselves that should be at the 12 o'clock position when things are in the correct places - and a mark on the back plate of the crank pulley that should also be at 12 o'clock (or the key-way at 6 as mentioned earlier) as seen here... Do NOT use the arrows on the cam pulleys.

not necessarily. I have had them skip a tooth and die while driving (jumped on the throttle hard one day & it jumped & died, and running cover-less had heavy snow get in and cause it to jump - both times it was the tensioner being shot that allowed it to happen) there is no specific write up for setting the tension.. the tensioner is hydraulic.. it is supposed to be compressed - very slowly - in a vise & pinned until everything is installed properly, the the pin pulled out if the internal seals are shot, they will give easily and at that point should be replaced. there are service manuals here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ there is not a 94 specific manual, but the info in the 90-94 folder should work just fine for your needs - the major differences in these years were mostly cosmetic

you should not be able to flex the timing belt much at all. hate to say it, but it sounds like it has skipped a tooth or two from improper tension (ie: tensioner is worn out, or was damaged by compressing to quickly) and just the act of cranking it over after sitting for a while can do it. The good news is, being a 94, it is non-interference, so redoing the timing - with a new tensioner - should solve the problem the fact that starting fluid failed to produce firing would kind of negate that as an issue.

if it is an automatic, it is most likely a 4spd. is it cold out when you notice the symptoms, or warmish? tranny fluid should be checked with everything at operating temperature, the car running, and parked on a level surface. verify the fluid is at the correct level.

first thing to do would be to check if the CEL is on - if it is, there are stored codes that need to be read. those can often help point you to what might be wrong If you do not have an OBDII code reader, most chain auto parts stores will read the codes for free - if you can get the car to them. They wont clear them, but will tell you what they are. If there are codes, make note of what they are, in the order they appear - will usually be in a "PXXXX" format with the Xs being numbers.

3200 sounds like gross weight - maximum weight for the vehicle including passengers and cargo

the other half has a 2006 LL Bean Outback with the 3.0 that he bought several years ago - has been pretty decent. nothing major so far - not sure of current mileage but can find out easy enough.

any other phone numbers besides his? I would definitely be doing some followup on this. It "looks" legit, but anyone can have business cards made.

Me either... i would certainly be suspicious of someone coming to my house like that.

Yes, NGK wires are my go to. Have been for a long time

make sure you use the simple, straight hash mark on the face of the pulley - NOT the arrow.

sorry, but that is incorrect. the 205 and 215 refer to the width, not the diameter of the tire. the sidewall of the tire is determined by the 70 (or whatever number follows the /), which in essence is 70% of the width in this case. 205 x 70% = 143.5mm sidewall height (from bead to tread) 215 x 70% = 150.5mm sidewall height converting that to inches is 5.6" and 5.9" respectively in sidewall height. (if you check the link I posted, you will see that these numbers correspond to what they show) overall diameter would be (sidewall height x 2) + wheel size ... (5.6 x 2) + 15 = 26.2 - the tire site shows 26.3 (5.9 x 2) + 15 = 26.8 - the tire site shows 26.9 for this one, so assuming there is a margin of error for rounding of decimal places..

it is also taller..

best i can say is maybe... compare sizes side by side here: https://tiresize.com/comparison/ it will mess with your speedo, not a lot, but it will be off.

my bet is on the bypass tube that runs from down by the thermostat up and across the top of block to drivers side rear, and has that small tube that T's off to the throttle body.. have had to change that thing on two different cars! One an Ej22 Legacy, the other on my 02 Forester EJ251 Pain in the rump when it is cold out - and of course they never seem to fail when it is warm - oh no, that would be too easy.

same picture can be seen here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_25/cooling_system/water_pipe_1/

and why are we digging up a 2 yr old thread?

that is the way to do it.

i dont think so they need to be flush with the surface or they might interfere

yup, had that issue on my 2002 Forester with the 251 - somebody had over-tightened one of the tensioner bolts and stripped it.. tracked down a new piece it connects to - swapped it out and golden. =) thank goodness, cause the 251 IS interference.

LOL, changing one tire out is not going to make enough of a difference to really come to any decent conclusion.. change out all 4 and see if there is any difference. That would be MUCH more conclusive than swapping one around the car.