heartless

don't bother with the aftermarket axles - nothing good ever comes from them. get a good used one and reboot as Texan suggested.

and you aren't going to share??

using the FWD fuse when using the donut spare is a good thing the Manual should mention this - mine did - IF you need to change a front tire, you are supposed to put the donut spare on a back, put the good back tire on the front, and use the fuse to put it into FWD mode to protect the AWD system from damage for towing, please always ask for a flatbed if you need to have your vehicle towed - the car MUST be running in order for the FWD fuse to work. If it is not running it does not work, and towing on 2 wheels will damage the AWD system

However, that said, it could possibly be a rear disc... this is from a 1992 service manual

according to the parts catalog I have for those years they either had 14" or 15" rotors for the front

not so much the pistons that you have to worry about as the valves. 97 and newer are interference motors - meaning when the timing belt gives out there is a very good chance the valves will be damaged. I would suggest finding a different shop - one that specializes in Subarus - and get a 2nd opinion before you spend anything.

thanks for coming back and updating! Glad it was an easy fix for you.

that would be in the interior fuse panel, btw

for 1996: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/1996/Owners Manual/Specification/

those temps sound pretty normal to me. Fronts do the majority of braking under "normal" driving. Aftermarket would be fine for ball joints, just dont go the cheapest. get a good quality part from a known name.

https://www.harborfreight.com/Mechanics-Stethoscope-63691.html

dont "blip" the throttle - bring the rpms up gradually to around 1500-2000rpm and hold it. also make sure rear brakes are not dragging at all, and check that tranny fluid is at the appropriate level before you do this. tranny fluid should be checked with the car fully warmed up, idling and parked on level ground.

agree the leak is most likely from bad seals - either crank or cam. Those should be (should have been) replaced when doing a timing service.

told ya it wasn't low on refrigerant, LOL glad you got it sorted out and for cheap, too!

if your reader is not able to clear them, then yeah, disconnect the battery - but NEVER touch the opposite terminal like that thing you found suggested. Unless of course you want to risk frying electronics or something.. best way to discharge completely is to step on the brakes a couple of times. then leave it sit for a little while disconnected to make sure. don't know who thought that would be a good idea, but they ought to be Gibb's Smacked for it.

#4 - ABSOLUTELY NOT!! NEVER do that. disconnecting the battery and leaving it for at least 30 minutes (longer is better) will work just fine. as for the green connectors under the dash - not sure 2010 even has those anymore, but if it does, they are probably wrapped up in tape to the harness under there & not easily visible. The best way to clear codes is with an OBDII code reader. They can be found for under $50

I am not sure on that one...i would check here for part interchange between 2.5 & 3.0... http://opposedforces.com/parts/ I know I have seen posts in the past about touching the coil spring while spinning the wheel to "feel" if there is roughness in the bearing - again, no guarantee that you will definitively answer this question this way, but others have reported success. Theory is that any roughness will get transmitted up the strut to the spring, and the spring will vibrate.

well, yeah, you guys up in the PNW are a bit luckier than we here in the midwest as far as all that goes. I did put used Forester (had the car in the driveway) struts under my 95 Legacy but turned out they were shot already and I ended up buying all new - struts, springs, tophats - the works. Was well worth it tho. Loved the added height and being able to stuff the forester wheels on to boot.

if this is your first AWD Subaru, you will love it come winter time.

yes, bearings are the same, hubs are side specific. Don't forget about seals, too, if you go that route.. getting a good used hub might be more cost effective, if you can find a good one. only 210K?? my 2002 Forester has 251K and still going strong.

maybe low oil pressure? i seem to recall others mentioning tightening the screws on the back of the oil pump when doing a timing service.. if they are loose, you could be losing a little pressure, but it gets made up for when rpms are higher. fwiw, the only time my 95 ticked was when oil was a little low, or it was due for an oil change.

there is nothing wrong with your car. it is doing exactly what it is supposed to be doing. If you were to increase rpms a little with it up in the air, the rears would most likely kick in. if you get binding while doing tight circles, then worry about the duty c. Otherwise, drive it, enjoy it. I miss my 95 Lifted Lego, but i do like the Foz, too

most likely the axles, as was noted earlier.

we have our own spring compressor already Have done the strut job on other vehicles in the past and we have it down pretty well now adays.. lol I don't go used on things like struts, ball joints, etc.. new for me, please. Parts like control arms, knuckles, even axles, things of that nature, yeah, used is the way to go, but things that are considered "wear" items, i put in new. I know a lot of folks are fine with used struts, and that is fine for them, not me. I want to do it once and be done for a long time. not have to do it again in 6 mos or a year when the used item gives out. I plan on keeping the car for a while yet, so I will spend the money on quality new parts.

stranger things have happened. and new bulbs are easy to come by, and relatively cheap