heartless

very possible - the air struts are ridiculously expensive, if they can even be obtained anymore... far cheaper to replace with standard struts/springs and is/was a common conversion.

yes, the 90 Legacy LS had air suspension (regular L did not). I had an LS that I did convert to standard Legacy struts some years back. The air strut assemblies will have to be completely removed (which requires either disconnecting or cutting the air lines to each strut) You will want to mark the lower strut bolts for alignment purposes - mark them in a way that will be easy to put back when installing the replacements - otherwise you are looking at getting an alignment when you are done. One of the lower bolts is cammed for toe adjustment. You will need COMPLETE strut assemblies to replace the air struts - struts, springs and tophats - you can not reuse any of the air strut parts. The air compressor lives behind the drivers side front fender, tucked up in the small space below the battery. I simply disconnected the electrical from mine and left it in place (too much of a headache to try to get to it to remove it completely). that said - the 99 Forester strut assemblies 'should' fit (i used 98 Foz struts on a 95 Legacy) You may want to unbolt the sway bar from the frame (not at the wheel end) to make things a little easier on yourself (ie: pushing the lower arm down far enough to get the strut bolted up) You put the tops in first, get the nuts on the tops threaded on - just finger tight is good to start with, then bolt up the bottoms - hopefully, you marked the bolts for easy realignment before you took them out - make sure they are in proper orientation, and then tighten everything up. Don't forget to tighten the top nuts too - but do NOT go strong-arm on those - torque value is pretty low.. otherwise you might break them (ask me how I know) Reattach the sway bar to the frame, put your wheels back on, and done.

Say what?? If that were the case then there should not be aftermarket fog/driving light kits available all over the place. I had a set of aftermarket combo fog/driving lights (separate bulbs/reflectors) on a previous Subaru and ran them independent of the headlights - never got stopped for doing so, either.

As someone who has been here at USMB for a long time - yes, this is "normal", LOL. That said, no one typically takes things too "personally", altho there have been a couple of times when things got a little heated. For me, personally, it is far easier & more cost effective to simply replace worn out/bad rotors. I live out in the boonies, and machine shops around here tend to be rather expensive - plus the time & cost of traveling back and forth... If the rotor is just lightly grooved, chances are I will leave it alone... deeply grooved, it will most likely get replaced. The rotor i shared the picture of was from my 95 Legacy - the car had been somewhat abused by a teenager - tranny was shot - and then it sat for a while before we purchased it (yes, we got it cheap) Those rotors were a pretty extreme case, however, with the braking surface flaking off. Planning ahead for DIY work is just a good idea. Ordering parts in advance makes life a lot easier once you get going on the job. the absolute nearest parts store for me is a 20 minute drive, one way... and that is a small town store, so them having what I need/want is a shot in the dark (yes, I usually call ahead to avoid wasting gas). Next nearest, larger store is a half hour, one way... so yeah.. Rock Auto, and other online retailers, get a decent share of my business as they ship my parts directly to my door - I don't have to go anywhere.

i have never had rotors turned on any car I have ever owned. I have replaced them if they were heavily grooved or otherwise showing signs of excessive wear... like the one pictured (that one was pretty extreme) I do agree with Montana Tom, tho - if doing the parking brake as well, do the hardware kit with it - cheap insurance it will continue to function properly.

i have used these to get the O2 sensor out before... https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-metric-offset-box-wrench-set-32042.html kind of depends on the plug tho... if it will fit through or not.. on the 95 Legacy I had, it worked fine, did not fit over the 02 Forester sensor plug however.

old adage: "with enough leverage you can move mountains" a good heavy duty breaker bar and a long pipe will give you adequate leverage to break the nut/bolt free... even a wimpy female like me can do this - with enough leverage we have a 3/4 drive set for situations like this... and a length of black pipe large enough to fit over the handle.

Rust is the biggest reason for retiring a Subaru... up here in Wisconsin, it is the #1 killer of otherwise good running cars. I know the cost of stuffing another tranny in is a consideration, but lets weigh the pros & cons... You know this car, know it's quirks, know the maintenance history on it... yes, putting another tranny in does cost, but... would it "cost" more or less than buying a different car that you have no knowledge of.. no maintenance history on, no idea how it was driven before you, no idea of how it was treated... you could find yourself with a money pit (catching up on missed/neglected maintenance/repairs) Or, as suggested by lmdew, find a 98-99 Outback with a blown motor and drop your 2.2 in it... but again, you have no idea of history, and could just as easily have tranny problems or other issues there as well... If the structure of the car is still in good condition, imho, it would be worth putting another tranny in it... On the other hand... if the structure is compromised due to rust or other damage, then perhaps it is time to move on.

that was my first thought as well.. =/

Sorry, but these cars were never intended to be "performance" cars, and there is very little you can do to make it one, short of swapping in a different engine, which opens up a whole different can of worms. If you want a "performance" car, buy a performance car... the WRX STI would probably be more appropriate...

make sure everything is tight.. not unusual to miss snugging up one of the clamps, lol (ask me how I know)

they have tubes connected to them that run down the A pillars and exit under the car, similar to how the AC drain works (there is also a pair at the back of the housing that run down the C pillars, I believe) - it is possible that a hose has become disconnected and that is where your moisture is coming from. unfortunately, the only way to get to them is to drop the header panel.

just gonna throw this out there... fuel filter? that sits on the drivers side in the engine bay... just a thought

on our 2006, the rear defroster fuse is in the main box under the hood, labeled as fuse 10 - there is also a relay for it in there. maybe check the main box on yours to verify..

i have had good luck with Sony Xplod systems with the appropriate harness adapter... wanted to upgrade to a bluetooth compatible system for hands free calling.. worked quite well in the 95 Lego, works just as well in the 02 Forester (swapped it over before selling the Lego)

you will have to clear the codes in order for the light to go out (even if it is fixed).. most likely by disconnecting the battery on this one, unless you have an OBDII port and a code reader to reset things - not sure, but I don't think the 1995 EJ18 had the OBDII yet..

go here: https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU find your year/model, download the FSM for it, and have fun.

try this: http://www.mediafire.com/file/gvcy0bicqsynfq2/USDM+Impreza+FSM+1996.zip

we have one of these as well - invaluable little tool!

it does take practice - lots of it, and it is a 2 step process with most of the cheap, common flaring tools.. are you following the instructions completely? setting the proper tubing height in the bar is important - use the flaring head that is appropriate for the size tubing you using to do so.. see figure 1 in this image.. http://www.waterbugdesign.com/pics/keypad/DoubleFlareDiag.jpg

definitely check/do the rear separator plate when you do the clutch (easy access) If it still has the plastic one, pick up the metal replacement one and the screws that go with it, and be done with it.

dont forget a full timing job - at 110k it would be overdue... and from the looks of that rotor, I would bet it has not been done yet..

as numbchux said.. never jack at the tow hooks... always use the center cross member in the front (just behind the oil pan), or the pumpkin in the rear.. not exactly sure what the lift height on ours is, but it is at least 18-20 inches... More than sufficient for jacking up the Outback and the Forester... a bit more limited use on the full size 4x4 pickup, which is pretty tall already, but it does work for lifting it up enough to get a wheel off.

we have a 4 ton floor jack from HF that works quite well... got the 4T version for use on our pickup as well.. Please do not rely on just a jack for working on your vehicle, however. Invest in a proper set of jack stands as well.

strut spacers will not gain you tire clearance... they go at the top, where the strut mounts to the body.. not sure if you can do the Forester struts on a 96 or not.. I know it worked quite well on my old 95..