forester2002s

My 2017 Forester has the TR580 CVT. It runs well, but that's not going to help you with your research. According to Wikipedia, the Ascents have the larger TR690 CVT. So you should be looking for info on those transmissions.

What does the existing heated-seat look like underneath? Does it look like the heating-element is easily accessible, and perhaps therefore easily replaced? Or is the heating-element buried in the guts of the cushion?

My 2017 Forester has the TR580. Do you recall how much replacement fluid you needed for the drain-and-fill?

And another question: How much replacement CVT fluid is needed after draining the old fluid? Subaru FSMs give the total amount of fluid required for a dry fill. But I have read that much less fluid is required after a simple maintenance drain. So how much fluid should one have on hand for the refill?

Time for an oil change?

Yes, and take photos before you take it apart

Try using jumper-cables to bypass the +ve cable from the +ve battery-post to the 12V input on the starter. This can be tricky. Wear safety-glasses, and connect the jumper-cable to the starter FIRST, and to the battery-post LAST. Then try to start the car. EDIT: Just had another thought - the 12V input on the starter is usually a stud on which is threaded a hex-nut. If that hex-nut was loose, it might explain your symptoms.

I use 10W30 non-synth in my 2002 Forester, and I change the oil & filter at least twice as often as recommended. Still on the original engine (but with new head-gaskets and belt etc,) I use 0W30 or 5W30 full-synthetic in my 2017 Forester, and also change the oil & filter more regularly than specified. I don't get too excited about buying super-expensive brand-name oil. I just buy what's on sale, and change it sooner than is required. And I've never used any oil additives.

Tire pressures are usually shown on the driver's side central door-post. I usually go about 2psi over (measuring the pressure when tires are cold)

I guess that posting on USMB (as I'm doing), and discussing the foibles of our cars, is useful info to someone. And even though I'm using an alias, I suppose that it would be easy for a snoop to find out more about me.

Sure sounds like a gradually-developing HG leak to me. Look on the bright side: at this stage, you can plan a HG replacement in an orderly fashion. Leave it too long, and you'll be in a panic to fix it.

The Clutch Release Fork (Lever) can develop cracks, or can bend. You might want to have a replacement on hand (OEM# 30531AA111 ?).

Not what was asked, but here's a useful tool for oil-filling: You can often find a Turkey Baster at low-cost at dollar-stores. Useful for filling or topping-up of rear-differentials. And can help with adding oil down the dipstick-tube of some manual transmissions.

Ball-joint failed! Going around a corner! Horror of horrors! I had a similar failure once, a long time ago, and the thought still haunts me. But it was on an old car, a 1934 Austin, and the ball-joint stem sheared off at the top of the ball, also when going around a bend. But times have moved on since then, and there have been huge advances in metallurgy and in manufacturing techniques since then.

From a 2002 Factory Service Manual: The following color codes are used to indicate the colors of the wires used. Color code Color L Blue B Black Y Yellow G Green R Red W White Br Brown Lg Light green Gr Gray P Pink Or Orange Lb Light Blue V Violet SA Sealed (Inner) SB Sealed (Outer)

This doesn't answer your question, but have you tried the following: - Open-up connector R1/B97, and check for 12V (to ground) on B97 when you try to start the engine? - Also, check for resistance/continuity on R1 (to ground)? These tests won't solve your problem, but may take you further down the road...

You may have already done this, but if not I would change the rubber-boots and clean out the CV-joints. Most new boots come with replacement grease. It's fairly easy to completely disassemble a CV-joint, and to clean out all of the existing grease. Once clean, it's easy to inspect the mating surfaces, and to see if there is any surface-wear. The Subaru OEM CV-joints are a thing of beauty, and are well made. Add the fresh grease, reassemble and re-boot. This might help with problematic vibrations. But in any case, it's a labor of love, a kind of Zen thing.

Subaru Brumby (aka Subaru Brat)

A few loose wires, eh? And not firing on all cylinders? And less than a full tank? Yes, I often feel that way these days...

C0116 Code - Stop Light Switch Circuit Malfunction

A brand new fuel filter shouldn't give you misfiring symptoms. But if you want a quick and cheap test, try replacing the old fuel filter (if you still have it), and see what happens to the misfiring.

I my experience, yes when those 'new' fuses blow, it's pretty obvious to the eye. One way to check a blown fuse is to switch it with another of the same rating. Ageing is challenging! Especially eyesight. I find that good lighting helps, but it is a PIT! I always console myself by watching the latest world news ,and realizing that I have little to complain about compared to people in other parts of the world.

Lots of stuff online about 3-wire alternators. Here's one: Alternator System in Your Subaru

What voltage do you read at the battery terminals, with everything off, engine not running? If you have normal battery voltage (~12V), then I would also suspect a failing battery. My logic is that to get to ~12V, the alternator must be charging properly, otherwise where does the ~12V come from?

I've noticed that engines twitch/move/jump when parked with the hood up. A little surge of gas to raise revs causes this engine movement. It may only last a second . This probably also happens when on the move, especially if the gas pedal is pressed down to speed the car up. It doesn't take much to make the heat-shields make momentary contact with the exhaust-pipe. Rattle-Rattle!