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forester2002s

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Everything posted by forester2002s

  1. AFAIK, this upside-down filter came in on the FB series of Subaru engines around 2011-2012 (in North America at least).
  2. Try a slight tightening of the oil filter. Just turn it by hand (clockwise). Don't force it. But if you can turn it a little, it may reseal.
  3. All good advice. Two suggestions: 1. After you've exposed the old timing belt, and before taking it off: make marks on the belt and on the pulleys (use a yellow wax crayon or something similar). Then take PHOTOS! They'll help you to get the new belt on correctly. 2. It only takes a few bolts to remove the radiator. Well worth doing to get it out of the way. Only takes a few minutes.
  4. I had the same (leaky-diode) problem on another car (Suzuki) several years ago. I fixed it temporarily by wiring a 12V relay into the alternator circuit. The relay contacts were Normally-Open, so that the alternator-diodes were disconnected when the ignition was off (0V), and the contacts changed to Closed when the ignition was activated (12V). I ran with this temporary-relay for several months, until I eventually found a good used alternator.
  5. Vehicle: 2017 Subaru Forester - with 7" Subaru Multimedia Plus system I've had this car since new, and it has a nuisance problem: the system won't automatically connect with whichever cell-phone is in the car. I have two phones paired using Bluetooth: my phone and my wife's phone. So no problem there, both phones show as being paired on the screen. If I drive the car (on my own) the Bluetooth system will connect to my phone, and the hands-free features works fine. The next day my wife drives the car (on her own), and the Bluetooth system won't automatically connect to her phone, even though it is correctly paired. But if I get in the car, with or without my wife, the system automatically connects again to my phone. There seems to be no way to get the system to automatically connect to another (already paired) phone. The only way I can make this happen is to manually change to the second paired phone. This is a real nuisance, as it means that every time one of us gets in the car to drive on our own, we have to go into the phone system to force a change to the 'other phone'. The problem is not with the 'pairing' which works fine; the two phones stay paired, but the system only tries to connect to the last-seen phone. I can't find anything about this in the Owner's Manual, nor on the on-screen prompts. Has anyone else seen this problem? And is it fixable?
  6. The link above just goes around in a circle and ends up back here on the forum. Try this one: http://www.subarupartsdeal.com EDIT: FYI, when I google SubaruPartsDeal, it appears that they are owned by Genuine Parts Giant, Inc., which supplies parts for all types of cars.
  7. Isn't that the drain valve for the radiator? I would expect that a bleed (for air) screw to be on top of the radiator, but this might be manufacturer-dependent.
  8. 1408 means that the tire was made in the 14th week of 2008. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11
  9. Gotta love these YouTube videos! Not only is that guy (MrSubaru1387) a good mechanic, but he also knows how to use a video-camera.
  10. Enjoy your car! Just do basic maintenance, especially for safety-related items, brakes, tires, lights etc. And stay safe! Above all else, don't drink and drive! Just say No. Your friends will respect you for it. Know that your age and gender could put you at high risk of an accident. Don't be a statistic. https://www.cdc.gov/motorvehiclesafety/teen_drivers/teendrivers_factsheet.html EDIT: Sorry if this sounds like preaching. But I had 3 boys, and they all had accidents soon after getting their first cars. Fortunately nothing serious.
  11. I'm not expert, but isn't classic Japanese script very similar to Chinese script? I.E. could this be a Japanese product?
  12. Check for hairline cracks in the ceramic-insulator of the spark-plug for the misfiring cylinder. A hairline-crack is hard to spot, but can allow leakage of high-voltage pulses, and might be giving you the misfire code.
  13. It could be wheel-bearings. I have had body-vibrations on my 2002 Forester (worse at about 105 km/h = 65 mph), and twice this has been rear-wheel bearings. I found the source of these vibrations difficult to trouble-shoot. The wheels show no looseness; there no noticeable heat build-up on the hubs; and it's difficult to identify whether the vibration comes from front or rear, left or right. Eventually to noise and vibration worsened, and the source was obvious. A couple of ideas: - what happens if you slip the car into neutral, and apply the brakes very gently? Does the vibration feel different? - what happens if you drive at speed round a very gentle curve to the left or right? Does the vibration feel different? If the answer is 'yes' to either, it could be wheel-bearings.
  14. First things that I would try: - Switch #1 spark-plug with adjacent. Still get the same code? - Switch #1 spark-plug wire with adjacent. Still get the same code? Do these sequentially, not both at the same time. Otherwise you can't tell which one made a change.
  15. Once you have a drum off, and before you touch anything, take a quick photo of the brake assembly. Do both left and right sides; they are slightly different. So if you have any doubt about how it all goes back together, you can refer to the photos.
  16. This may be a stupid question, but have you tried a fresh battery for the key-fob?
  17. My 2002 Forester 5MT does the same, and has since it was new. I think that it's normal.
  18. Could be a number of things. But one easy one is to check is that the wheel lug-nuts are tight...
  19. I can't comment on whether this is a good idea or not. But if you do cut & re-weld, consider that the assembly may have been rotationally balanced by the manufacturer. If so, have the machinist mark the two halves before cutting, and then re-weld in the same orientation.
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