forester2002s

Yes, a ground-issue is definitely a possibility. You could start by removing each bulb in turn, and seeing if the symptoms change.

My money would be on wheel-bearings.

Get it up to speed on the highway, where the vibration is very noticeable, then: - ease off throttle and decelerate - any change? - accelerate gently - any change? - accelerate hard - any change? - brake gently - any change?

Or, use a 'Turkey Baster': https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MN62P8Y/ref=dp_cerb_1

Subaru heat shields are notorious for rattling. And your symptoms (low RPMs, light-load, decelerating) seem to point at heat shields. BUT, heat shield will also rattle with the car stationary. And the rattling can be quite loud when the engine is started. If you cannot create the rattle at zero speed, then it is most likely not the heat shields.

The knock-sensor 'listens' for pre'-ignition. Without reading all previous posts, did you replace the knock-sensor? It's a cheap item.

My 2002 Forester uses tiny incandescent micro-bulbs #7219 (each fitted into a small plastic screw-in fitting). Radio Shack used to carry these as #272-1092 (is Radio Shack still in business?) #7219 micro-bulbs are also available on eBay and Amazon.

Knock-sensor failing? (although this would usually set a P0328 CEL)

I've heard that cross-country travellers, like truck drivers, love satellite radio. They can listen to the same radio station all day, even as they get out of range of terrestrial stations.

On new cars, Subaru might include a free short-term subscription to Sirius. E.G. only 6-months. After that you have to pay.

I admit that this is unlikely, but: - Does this 2010 model have the 'Eyesight' function? - And could the 'Eyesight' be applying the brakes, thinking that a collision was imminent?

Thanks for this great tip! I too have lost lots of little miscellaneous bits and bobs all over the place.

The last 3 digits of a Subaru part number indicate revisions to the part. The higher number, the latest revision.

Replacement wiper-blade refills seem to have disappeared from the face of the earth. Too bad.

I also have a 2002 Forester with the EJ2.5 engine; in that car I change the oil (dyno) at about 3,000-5,000km. I've had that car since new with very few problems (I changed the headgaskets at 226,000km using 11044AA642 MLS gaskets). The car is now burning a little oil between changes. However in the 2017 Forester, I use full-synthetic oil. That's why I go about 8,000km between changes (recommended is 10,000km). And as I said above, it consumes virtually no oil.

I have a 2017 Forester with the FB2.5 engine. I change the oil about every 8,000km. The oil level on the dipstick stays at the 'Full' mark all the time (measured when cold).

+1. And when you wiggle the fusible link, what else moves? The battery-post clamp, for example?

Try wrapping some electrician-tape around the mating surface on the latch-loop (the steel-loop attached to the sill of the trunk). No too much tape, or else the latch won't work. Just a wrap or two can cure rattling a hatch-back.

I bought a Mizumo Auto kit a while ago (on eBay). The timing belt quickly developed transverse cracks (on the back side). The belt had no markings, and Mizumo would not respond to my queries about the belt's manufacturer. Beware!

Swap the #6 sparkplug with another. See what happens. Then swap the #6 sparkplug wire with another. See what happens.

Could also be failed engine mounts.

+1 on a bad wheel-bearing.

FYI: Cavitation doesn't cause air in the system. Cavitation is the imploding of water-vapor bubbles, and which may eat away at metal surfaces, and has a distinctive 'gravel' sound. But after the bubbles implode, all that's left is the original fluid.

You could also try a slightly thicker oil (after the cold weather has abated), to see what difference it makes to the noise.

I've tried the cardboard in front of the rad. But it was on an old car, and only to counteract a failed thermostat. And I don't think that it will help much in the severe cold of -38. I would replace the thermostat, either with a new OEM, or with a Stant equivalent (the one with a long spring). Someone on this board has a photo of the best thermostat to buy. But I don't envy you working under the car in such cold weather! EDIT: Just noticed that you have 2018. Take it back to the dealer...