forester2002s

I also have a 2002 Forester with the EJ2.5 engine; in that car I change the oil (dyno) at about 3,000-5,000km. I've had that car since new with very few problems (I changed the headgaskets at 226,000km using 11044AA642 MLS gaskets). The car is now burning a little oil between changes. However in the 2017 Forester, I use full-synthetic oil. That's why I go about 8,000km between changes (recommended is 10,000km). And as I said above, it consumes virtually no oil.

I have a 2017 Forester with the FB2.5 engine. I change the oil about every 8,000km. The oil level on the dipstick stays at the 'Full' mark all the time (measured when cold).

+1. And when you wiggle the fusible link, what else moves? The battery-post clamp, for example?

Try wrapping some electrician-tape around the mating surface on the latch-loop (the steel-loop attached to the sill of the trunk). No too much tape, or else the latch won't work. Just a wrap or two can cure rattling a hatch-back.

I bought a Mizumo Auto kit a while ago (on eBay). The timing belt quickly developed transverse cracks (on the back side). The belt had no markings, and Mizumo would not respond to my queries about the belt's manufacturer. Beware!

Swap the #6 sparkplug with another. See what happens. Then swap the #6 sparkplug wire with another. See what happens.

Could also be failed engine mounts.

+1 on a bad wheel-bearing.

FYI: Cavitation doesn't cause air in the system. Cavitation is the imploding of water-vapor bubbles, and which may eat away at metal surfaces, and has a distinctive 'gravel' sound. But after the bubbles implode, all that's left is the original fluid.

You could also try a slightly thicker oil (after the cold weather has abated), to see what difference it makes to the noise.

I've tried the cardboard in front of the rad. But it was on an old car, and only to counteract a failed thermostat. And I don't think that it will help much in the severe cold of -38. I would replace the thermostat, either with a new OEM, or with a Stant equivalent (the one with a long spring). Someone on this board has a photo of the best thermostat to buy. But I don't envy you working under the car in such cold weather! EDIT: Just noticed that you have 2018. Take it back to the dealer...

Try these 2 easy fixes before assuming that it's a head-gasket leak: - Tighten all clamps on the coolant-hoses (if they are adjustable). - Install a new (Subaru OEM) PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve. On the EJ25 engine, the head-gasket typically leaks oil and/or coolant to the exterior of the engine. And the favored spot to see this leak is on the left-side (driver's side in US) head, near the rear of the engine and underneath. You have to get underneath the car. You're looking for the joint between the block and the head (not the joint between the head and the rocker-cover, although that might also leak). If the head-gasket is leaking, you'll see oil seeping out of that joint. If the oil-consumption is manageable, replacing the head-gasket is not urgent (but still desirable).

Does the rear wiper work? On some Subarus, the same fuse powers both front and rear wipers.

When I learnt to drive, almost 60 years ago, I was taught to slow down using the gears. The theory was that you were always in control, and always in the correct gear to accelerate if need be. After many years of driving manuals, I've changed my habits. I now use the brakes for slowing down, and then shift down when the vehicle-speed has already slowed. It still keeps me in a suitable gear, but it saves clutch-wear. Brakes are easy and cheap to replace. Clutches are time-consuming and expensive to replace. And yes, you may need to know how to drive a manual, if you travel the world.

This article (from Consumer Reports) may be of interest. It is 6-years old, but the science is still valid. https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2012/12/plus-size-tires-when-more-is-less/index.htm

I wonder if the built-in 'fuse' is actually a heat-sensing 'thermistor'?

I can't help with your actual dash, but I can steer you to Amazon.co.uk Recently I was looking for a door window-switch for a friend's car (RHD, but not a Subaru). I could not find the correct RHD part on Amazon.com (the US site, and the biggest selection of items for sale). So on a whim, I searched on Amazon.co.uk instead (the UK has RHD cars). Lo and behold, I found the exact part that I was looking for, and the seller could also ship overseas. It's worth a try. EDIT: I just looked back in my files, and I misled you. It wasn't Amazon.co.uk where I found the RHD part, it was eBay.co.uk , but the same suggestion applies.

When overnight snow/ice freezes the rubber wiper-blades to the glass, they can get damaged when the wiper mechanism tears them away from their frozen home. Spraying the washer-fluid first, allows the snow/ice to melt before the wiper-blades move.

The Subaru Factory Service Manual (2002 Forester) has a section dealing with reinstalling the Cylinder Head Bolts. It reads: 'Apply a coat of engine oil to washers and bolt threads' I have always followed that, and never had any problem.

Too many red flags... I would walk away.

Unloading the suspension makes no difference to the engine mounts; the weight of the engine is still on them. If you can get underneath, with the car 'up in the air', you should be able to visually inspect the engine-mounts from below.

Engine mount(s) failed?

Not sure what you've skipped. Subaru head-bolts are NOT torque-to-yield. that's why you can reuse them. I've always followed the complete torqueing sequence when installing new head-gaskets.

http://www.armorall.com/products/trim-plastic-restoration/outlast-trim-plastic-restorer. ?

This might be the EndWrench article that you refer to. WhBearRep.pdf