forester2002s
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Everything posted by forester2002s
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Try smearing some solid white silicone lubricant-stick around the edges of the gas-door. That works on rubber door-seals to prevent ice from sticking to the rubber. And it shouldn't damage the paint around the door.
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I try to remember to spray WD40 into the insides of the door locks, BEFORE the winter weather hits. This usually prevents the door-lock tumblers from freezing up (not so much of a problem these days with remote fobs). Perhaps WD-40 would also act as a preventative on the gas-door latch?
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If the noise is a 'rattle', this could come from the exhaust 'heat-shields'.
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Does the scanner work when the car is "running fine"? Here's an idea: - If the scanner doesn't work when the car won't run; but... - The scanner works OK when the car does run; Then perhaps the problem is somewhere like the ignition-switch having an intermittent fault.
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I also broke that little aluminum adjuster piece for the AC tensioner (2002 Forester) I was pleasantly surprised to find that my local Subaru dealer had a replacement in stock, and for minimal cost. EDIT: Here's the Subaru part number: 73134AC001 EDIT #2: I see that the part is also available on Amazon. Search for the part number.
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With all the brakes on, try engaging the clutch slowly in first gear. The engine will move around a bit, but not much. If you can see the engine moving a lot (upwards or side to side), it could mean failed engine mounts.
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Also check the 'dog-bone' that connects the rear-top of the engine to the bulkhead, just below the windshield. It's unlikely that this part would fail, but it would only take 10-seconds to do a visual check.
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Could be faulty diodes in the alternator. Do a search on this forum. There should be plenty of posts about failed diodes.
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My cheapo MAXX Battery from Walmart (Canada) has 800CCA. Maybe the Canadian market has different batteries than in the US. Regardless of the price/CCA/warrantee figures, my experience is that all batteries seem to have a life of only 4 to 5 years, before they'll let you down on a cold morning!
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Maybe the low-fuel lamp has burnt out. Does it come on briefly (along with all the other warning-lamps) during the starting sequence?
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How old is the engine oil? Now might be a good time for an oil+filter change. A thinner grade of oil might help with cold-weather starting.
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Are you sure that the CEL lamp is an LED? On earlier Subaru models, the panel lamps were incandescents. The used to be available from RadioShack #272-1092 Micro-lamp #7219. I'm not sure if RS still carries them.
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Thanks for this. Where do I find that PCB? And would it work on a 2017 Forester?
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+1 on alternator diodes being faulty.
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Add a suitable fuse in series? Just in case there's a short somewhere.
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What happens to the squeak if you apply the brake gently whilst reversing?
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Can you tell whether the crack is on the outside or inside of the (laminated) glass? If on the inside, then it wouldn't have been caused by an external flying object.
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2. Take it to an Auto-Glass shop, & ask for advice.
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Take it back to the dealer. Sounds like a manufacturing defect.
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My guess is that the ignition-key is not the problem. More likely a starter problem. A sharp tap on the starter with a small hammer will sometimes help. But this needs 2 people: one to hold the ignition key on 'START', and the other person with the hammer.
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What happens when you turn the ignition key to 'ON'? Do all the warning lamps on the speedo-display light up?
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PCV Valve: Stuck? Blocked:
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'There's more than one way to skin a cat.' Can we leave it at that?
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I've had this problem, but mostly with night-time vision. The problem with my windshield (original equipment from 2002) was the many tiny pits caused by sand and road-grit over many years. Full price for a replacement windshield was beyond my budget. However I was recently 'lucky' enough to get the windshield hit by a flying stone. This caused a decent size chip in the glass, right in the driver's field of vision. My insurance covered a replacement windshield (minus my insurance deductible). I can see clearly now...