forester2002s

Paint them black? That should provide peace of mind.

If there are no other symptoms, other than flinging grease, then by all means re-boot them. You could try a different make of boot, if you suspect that the old ones were sub-standard.

Any oil-pressure gauge would work. Be aware that there are 2 types: - using a small-bore hose, teeing off into an oil passage; or - electric-sender type. Either way, actual psi accuracy is not that important. It's the trend over time that will give you the most useful info.

Could also be 'piston slap', in which case it should no harm, just a bit noisy.

This site might help: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#05 legacy program remotes

Could also be the oil-pressure sensor, which is located on top of the engine.

If anyone has been near my lugnuts with an impact-wrench, I loosen them as soon as I can, and then retighten them with with the wrench that I carry in the car. Would hate to have a flat on a dark & stormy night, and not be able to get the wheel off.

Could also be noisy tappets. First thing to try is to do an oil+filter change. This sometimes works.

If the worn tires are already on the front, you may need a front-end alignment.

If the car is leaning back, you may need to replace the springs as well. The struts ((shocks), on their own, only dampen vibrations. It's the springs that set the height. And I agree 100% with your plan to 'reset' the maintenance cycles. Good plan.

Another thing about V-belts, is that they only bend in one direction. They won't do a reverse bend without cracking. Whereas a serpentine-belt CAN do a reverse bend, so they are like a serpentine-snake. The timing-belt on Subarus is a typical serpentine-belt

Grossgary: Check supermarket parking lots for concrete curbs. I've often seen shade-tree mechanics at work there.

"How to post pictures?" If you're using a full browser, click on <More Reply Options> at bottom right. Then <Choose Files...> to attach.

Could be a problem with the ignition switch? Thinks it to be OFF when key is ON. Thinks it to be ON when key is OFF. Weird!

There's a thread somewhere on this forum; it's a few years old, but it covers clock-problems. Do a search. If I recall it properly, there's an iffy solder-joint on the clock's circuit-board. I fixed my 2002 years ago, and it has worked just fine ever since.

Don't buy from Mizumoauto unless they specify the manufacturer of the belt. And then only buy if it is a known good make, eg Gates. I had a faulty belt from Mizumoauto, and they just ignored all my attempts at contacting them. Be warned.

You were lucky. A rear-ender, with 40mph relative speed, would more likely result in enough damage for it to be written off. Yes check the body carefully. Glad that you're OK.

All that sludge points to a lack of frequent enough oil changes.

Personally, I would only use a split-boot as a very temporary fix. Even then, I would probably try wrapping a torn boot with cling-wrap and tape, before trying a split-boot. But only as temporary fix to buy me time. There's a reason why car manufacturers don't use split-boots.

If you could find the correct wires under the dash, then you would be able to troubleshoot Volts & Ohms from there. That would tell you if the switch was behaving normally, or if the problem was located somewhere else. But you'd need a good wiring diagram.

Is there any resistance on the top of the clutch fork when you try to push it by hand? Or does it feel loose?

Soak the threads with a penetrant/lubricant for several days. Those nipples shear off easily.

I have a set of snow-tires mounted on their own (steel) wheels. I put these on the car for about 4-months each winter. I watch the weather forecasts, and put the snow tires on when the ambient temperature is below about 5C (40F), even if there is no snow. The soft rubber gives good grip on wet roads, deep snow, and hard-packed snow. I never have to worry about getting stuck. These tires are now 8-years old, and I see no signs of the rubber getting hard. Mind you, I keep the car in a garage at night, and keep the snow-tires stored out of sunlight when not on the car. The snow-tires are noisier on pavement, than my summer tires, and I'm usually glad to get them off at the end of the cold weather.

It's probably leaking when you're driving, so the oil-drops get blown away. Try parking with the engine running, with a piece of cardboard underneath. Maybe the leak will show up.

Your timing-belt should be OK, after only 20,000 miles, IF it was either OEM or other good make e.g. Gates. However, I've had two no-name T-Bs deteriorate badly soon after replacement. Check the T-B for surface transverse cracks, especially on the backside of the belt.