forester2002s

Sometimes a hex-head (Allen key), of suitable size, will work instead of the proper Torx tool. But if you try this, don't exert too much torque, for fear of damaging the Torx hole.

I've always used Walmart 80W90 when changing gear-oil in my 2002 Forester. And I've had no problems with the transmission. Smooth gear-changes etc. Had the car since new, now at 236,000 km.

Nipper: Glad to see you back on the forum!

www.1stsubaruparts.com Located on the premises of Hanson Subaru, Olympia WA, but offer discount prices. Only used them once (happened to be in the area, and picked up my parts in person), and was happy with their service.

Is the noise the same in different gears? For instance, you are in 4th gear and hearing the noise. What happens if you change to 3rd gear? Or vice-versa. Another way of phrasing this question is to ask: Is the noise related to engine-speed, or road-speed?

Manual transmissions have a switch on the clutch-pedal, so that the starter-motor will not energize unless the pedal is fully dressed. Does your starter operate as normal with your foot on the clutch-pedal?

Have you tried jiggling the headlamp-switch, to see if that either turns the headlights on or off? What I mean is: - if the lights are ON, does jiggling the switch turn them off? - if the lights turn OFF on their own, does jiggling the switch restore them back to on?

+1 on it being an internal leak in the brake master-cylinder. You have 2 options: 1. Put new seals in the master cylinder. You may be able to buy a kit for this, or 2. Buy a new master-cylinder. If this was my car, I would go with a new master-cylinder; it's quicker, and more likely to be successful, and only costs a few $$ more. Once it's done, it will probably never fail again in the life of the car.

This is an 8-year old thread! Started by then frequent-user 'Frag'. Where is Frag anyway? He used to post very regularly, and then just disappeared!

Suggest that you replace the radiator cap with a new one, preferably OEM. It sounds like you may have higher coolant-pressure than normal.

After undoing those components, you can jack the engine up (and twist it a bit) to give more clearance to get at the heads. DS means Driver Side. PS means passenger Side.

Check your battery voltage. It should be just over 12V without the engine running.

Long shot: Does the clutch-plate slide freely on the splined input-shaft? If there are any burrs on that spline, that could cause a slipping clutch.

Get a Gates or Mitsuboshi Timing Belt. Avoid any no-name timing belt, however cheap it is to buy. I would also change the front crank-seal, if there is any oil leakage. And, with the engine out, how about a new clutch-kit (clutch-plate, cover and pilot & throw-out bearings). With the clutch disassembled, check the 'oil-separator plate' (behind the flywheel); it may need resealing, or replacing if it is plastic (but your 2002 Forester may already have the cast-aluminum plate which is less likely to leak). And if there is any oil leakage from the camshaft-covers, then buy a new gasket-kit for the covers. None of this work adds much time, assuming that you already have the engine out. Your Forester should have many years left.

Might be that the timing-belt Tensioner has failed, and allowed the timing-belt to slacken. The noise you heard could be the Tensioner flapping around. Then the timing-belt might have skipped a tooth, and screwed up the valve and spark timing. Take the left-side (looking forward) TB Cover off (3 screws), You'll soon see if the timing-belt is loose.

Yes, the EBay or Amazon kits are fine, but only get a brand-name timing-belt. Such as Gates or Mitsuboshi. If they don't specify the TB brand-name, then don't touch it.

Some belt dressings work the other way. They coat the belt with a 'sticky' film, instead of with a lubricant.

I see that rockauto.com have your rear strut-assemblies for about $90 incl. shipping to DC.

And use a 6-point socket for those troublesome bolts. If you use the regular 12-point sockets on a tight bolts, you may end up 'rounding' the bolt-head or nut.

I too do a water flush after draining the old anti-freeze. But this always leaves some residual water in the cooling system - sometimes quite a lot. So adding 50%/50% premix doesn't work after a water flush. What I do is to calculate how much of the concentrated anti-freeze that I need (knowing the capacity of the cooling system). Then I add that amount of antifreeze to the system. Then I top up with water. Run the car for a day. And then top up with water again, if necessary. That way I end up with the correct antifreeze+water mix.

Fuel-filter partially blocked?

In my experience, diff oil gets slightly 'cloudy', with some discoloration but not much. And it's normal to see some accumulated grey 'fuzz' on the drain-plug magnet.

Great write-up!

Woaa! Slow down! Grossgary was only trying to help you. You asked for help. And you got some help. IMHO, your negative comments about someone who is trying to help you, will only serve to discourage anyone else from wanting to help.

Can't help directly in identifying that 6-prong connector. But what I can tell you is that my 2002 5MT Forester, which has the EJ251 engine, does NOT have that grey connector. It just has the two large white and brown connectors. No sign of that extra 6-prong grey connector.