forester2002s

If the tailgate-hinge is bolted on using shims, then make sure to have some extra shims on hand. That would help to get the new tailgate aligned properly.

Classic sign of an internal leak in the master-cylinder: - Car in Neutral on flat-ground; engine idling; - Press and hold the brake pedal, with a steady foot. If the brake pedal slowly goes down to the floor, then you have an internal leak in the master-cylinder (brake-fluid leaking past the piston seals, from the high-pressure side, to the low-pressure side). You might be able to fix this with a seal-kit, but it is normally easier and more permanent to change out the whole cylinder.

Maybe the clutch is not disengaging properly. With the engine off, it may still be possible to change gears, even without depressing the clutch. What happens if you have the engine off, and with the car in 1st gear, the clutch pedal is depressed, and the engine is then started? Does the car lurch forward? Or can you pull away normally by slowly releasing the clutch pedal?

You say: "Not allowing the starter motor to engage". Does this mean that: - the starter motor spins, but will not engage the flywheel? or - there is an audible 'click' from the starter solenoid, but the starter does not spin? or - there is no sound at all from the starter motor?

Just to add another option, you could use different oils summer and winter: - Summer 10W30 - Winter (if in a very cold climate) 0W20

Check the battery terminal connections. Sometimes they can get corroded, and a light tap with a hammer or small rock will make a temporary fix.

On my 2002 Forester, each seat-heater also has two connectors. One connector is for the heaters. And the other is connected to the heater-relay. I think that you can safely disconnect both connectors without a problem. But I'm betting that if you disconnect the relay connector (white on my vehicle), then the heat will go away. If so the problem is probably with a faulty heater-relay.

I have used eBay Knock Sensors (from China), for less than $15 incl. shipping. They work just fine; the only problem is that they take a few weeks to arrive. They're so cheap, that I ordered a spare to keep on hand (but I've never needed it). If I remember correctly, I was quoted over $100 by a Subaru dealer for the OEM Subaru part.

Does that display reading of 52.8 mpg agree with how much gas you pumped in, and the total distance travelled?

Does it click with the car stationary and in neutral? How about when stationary, but in gear and trying to drive against the foot-brake?

Any recommendations for a long-lasting Timing Belt? In my 2002 Forester EJ251, I replaced the original Subaru factory Timing Belt at 163,590km (101,671miles), as a maintenance precaution. That Subaru belt looked like almost new, with no cracks or other visible deterioration. The next belt was part of a MizumoAuto timing-belt kit (incl. pulleys, idlers, tensioner, water pump). After another 62,633km (38,927miles), I discovered that the belt was badly cracked. There are transverse cracks on the back-side of the belt, opposite to the ‘valleys’ in the toothed side. See the attached photo. That replacement belt only lasted 38% as long as the original Subaru belt, and I have removed it from service. I can buy a replacement timing belt on line for a variety of prices, and from a variety of manufacturers. The most expensive belts are the Subaru OEM (13028AA231), followed by Gates and Mitsuboshi. And there are many others available for a fraction of the price. Which belts are the best buy for the price (I have an interference-engine)? I know that the Subaru OEM belt is good (no visible deterioration at the recommended change-interval), but it is expensive. And the MizumoAuto belt was scarily inadequate, with cracking after a much shorter interval (I have asked MizumoAuto to tell me the manufacturer’s name, but no reply). I have seen lots of online reviews, mostly with comments about how the belt went on easily, or looked nice when new, etc. But I haven’t found any reviews that comment on the longevity of the belt, or otherwise. So I welcome comments/recommendations about what make of timing belt to buy, preferably with first-hand experience on how long the belt actually lasted.

I'll post a copy of the relevant 2 PDFs from the FSM (Factory Service Manual) (for a 2002 Forester). This details how to flush out the pipes. How do I post PDF images? Can anyone point me in the right direction? EDIT: Maybe the 'Attach Files' feature will work... PS54 Power Steering Fluid.pdf

"Was it black?" It was the original Subaru fill from new in 2002. It was actually red, but with loads of 'black' suspended solids; so that in a glass jar, it looked almost black, but with a red tinge to the base oil.

There's also a procedure in the FSM for flushing out the power-steering lines. I can't remember the details, but you first disconnect one side, low-down at the steering rack, and turn the wheels full-lock several times. Then repeat on the other side. When I did this on my 2002 Forester (no symptoms, just precautionary maintenance), I was amazed at how the drained fluid was dirty/black.

How are your head-gaskets? Your 2.5L engine may have the classic head-gasket oil-leak. There's a spot under the right-side gasket, just above the oil-filter that may leak oil. But I agree, that you should eliminate an oil-filter leak first.

You can replace the rocker-cover seals with the engine in place, but it's tight. On the LS, remove the battery and the W-W reservoir. On the RS, remove the air-inlet plastic pipes. But it's much easier to do if the engine is already removed for other work. For my 2002 Forester, I bought a Magnum kit VS25021 on Amazon, for less than $25. It seals the rocker-cover tight and dry. There's no sealant involved, just clean everything with rags, and bolt up. Take care not to overtorque the 10mm cover bolts, otherwise they'll snap off, or else strip the threads.

+1 for warped front rotors. If this was my car, I would install new front rotors and brake pads (they're due anyway).

First things first: Unplug the connector to the fan. Check if you have 12V at that connector, when the fan is supposed to be on. (Note: beware of rotating fan blades!)

BEFORE removing the old timing-belt: - Use a grease- or wax-pencil to MARK LINES on the belt, and on all the pulleys, and on the alignment marks on the block. - THEN take some PHOTOS of this original setup. - Then proceed... The few minutes that you spend doing this will save a lot of angst later.

Fuel-filter clogged (or partially clogged)?

That particular nut is one where I say to myself: "Who designed this terrible arrangement?", and then: "If that person was here with me now, I would give them a piece of my mind". However, there are not many such bad designs on my Subaru; far less than on other cars; the worst IMHO are the 'Detroit' designs, where I swear to myself continually about stupid layouts. For that lower nut, I use a swivel ratcheting/swivel wrench, similar to this one: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-12mm-locking-flex-ratcheting-combination-wrench/p-00942479000P?prdNo=40&blockNo=40&blockType=G40 (I can't recall if that nut is 12mm or 14mm; I've got both of these wrenches) The main problem is that you cannot see the nut, and wrench it simultaneously. You have to get in position to see the nut's location (best place is from above), and imprint that picture in your memory. Then (from underneath) blindly attach the wrench, by feeling with your fingers, and hope that you can get enough torque on the wrench to free the nut. Not the best arrangement, and not easy, but it works.

Can't help you with a diagnosis, but that's a great video!

+1 on the Oil Separator Plate leaking oil. It's hidden behind the flywheel. Do a search, and you'll lots of discussions about that plate leaking.

Does the axle free up a bit when you untorque the axle-nut? And if so, do you hear (or feel) anything unusual when you rotate the driveline?

Replace the coolant hoses: Upper rad-hose; Lower rad-hose; and Bypass hose; plus new hose clamps.