forester2002s
-
Posts
1195 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
14
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by forester2002s
-
"...sometimes the clutch pedal doesn't come all the way back up without help?" This is probably because the slave-cylinder (located just behind the engine, on top of the transmission bell-housing) is sticky. Best to replace the slave with a new one. Cheap to buy, and easy to do.
-
I think that you're on the right track to check grounds. Whenever strange things happen to lights, especially 'dim' lights, it's quite often due to faulty grounding.
-
Yes, great write-up. Thanks for doing it.
-
Another 'tool' to buy: - a squeezy-bulb type of turkey-baster (available from your local dollar-store). Use this to get lubricating-oil into awkward places. For instance, into the rear-differential filler-plug; also down into the manual-transmission dipstick-tube. Just make sure to keep the oily turkey-baster away from food.
-
It's an aerofoil shape, just like the wings on an aircraft. As others have said, 'rounded-end' to the front, and sharp 'trailing-edge' to the rear. Drive fast enough, and you'll have LIFT-OFF (just kidding).
-
Try wrapping some electrician's tape around the metal loop on the door-sill. The latch-mechanism holds on to that loop, and adding extra tape sometimes cures any looseness.
-
If it's just a 'light squealing noise', I wouldn't rush into doing anything. Leave for a few days (and lots of clutch operations), and it may go away.
-
1/8th turn = 22.5 deg. EDIT: My bad! I used to be good at mental arithmetic. Not any more apparently...
-
I had a similar problem recently on my 2002 Forester. Same as you, the diaphram-fingers looked flat when I opened the box. And even after I installed the clutch-cover, the fingers were still flat. When I drove the car, the clutch pedal was biting very high. If I floored it going uphill, the clutch would slip. I returned the clutch (cover + friction-disk + bearings) to RockAuto. Then I bought OEM parts from Subaru (these cost me quite a bit more), and reinstalled. Now all is well, and the clutch bites further down on the pedal.
-
Try your local 'Canadian Tire' store. I had my 2002 rear wheel bearings done there. They were cheaper than the 3 Subaru dealers that I contacted, and they did it the very next day, whereas the dealers wanted about a week's notice.
-
In my experience, any rotational play is too much. You certainly shouldn't hear a click. An involute gear set is different. Some amount of backlash is inherent in the design, so that the gear teeth can clear each other, as the teeth mesh.
-
I don't read it that way. In his original post, he says that he'll buy a used Subaru, for about AU$2,000 to $3,500.
-
UPDATING my original post: Yes, I have moved away from suspecting that the rear diff is causing the 'rumble'. I've been monitoring my rear wheel bearings. I've jacked up the wheels, and shaken them manually. At first, I couldn't detect any looseness. Then a few weeks later, I could detect a slight audible 'click', very faint. Then I could detect very slight movement of the wheel, plus the faint click. That was on one of the rear wheels. Then a few days ago, I checked all of wheel bearings, and discovered that one of the front wheel bearings is also loose (that explains the occasional shimmy on the steering wheel at high speeds). I have loosened that long lateral-link-bolt on the rear, and managed to remove it. I am now looking for used hubs, one for the rear, and one for the front. None available locally - I am reluctant to order a used hub online, without actually being able to see it first. My local Subaru dealer wants $500 to replace each wheel bearing (they don't do this on the car; they remove the hubs the old way and press the bearings out and in). My trusty local mechanic has just retired, so I am shopping around for choices. Meanwhile the rumble has got worse, but not by much. I think that I can continue driving for quite a while, before the situation gets too serious. It's just a little noisy.
-
You're right! My Forester does that that extra bracket for the prop rod. Right on the right-side suspension 'hat'. I was looking in the wrong place. I was expecting a second hole somewhere on the inside of the hood! Thnaks for pointing this out.
-
My 2002 Forester doesn't have that secondary hood-prop. However, the hood will push back to the vertical, and stay there. This works well inside the garage. But I'm not sure that I would trust it outside on a windy day. EDIT: I was wrong, there IS a secondary hood prop on my car. See my correction #38, a few posts down.
-
This is an interesting topic. Unfortunately, I have no first-hand experience to offer. But please do report back, if you do make this change. I, for one, would love to know what you find out.
-
As each piston reaches TDC, you'll feel resistance as you turn the crankshaft. And as the piston passes TDC, the resistance disappears and the crank turns suddenly on its own. Take all spark plugs out, and the crankshaft should turn freely.
-
... and hidden from view! It has a yellow plastic handle, which helps a little to find it. It is also hard to maneuver out, and even harder to get back in. Good luck!
-
My 2002 Forester 2.5 also looks just like this. It's been leaking for the last couple of years (on the left-side only, the right-side is as 'dry as a bone'). It uses about 1L oil per 5,000km (about 1USQuart per 3,000miles). And it doesn't drip on the floor, so the oil probably getting blown away when driving. I just keep an eye on it (wipe it off occasionally), and check my oil-level religiously. For now, it's not a problem.
-
My 2002 Forester has 16" wheels. The original Subaru mags have a 48 mm offset. The aftermarket steelies (for snow tires) have a 42 mm offset. When mounted, the offset is such that the centre of the tire's tread is CLOSER to the car than is the mounting face for the wheel.
-
About lifting the engine: - Use the 2 lifting-points that others have mentioned (1 on rear near wiring-connectors, & 1 on A-C/Generator bracket); - Use a Leveller-Beam between the hoist & engine. Mine is a 3/4 Ton (750kg), & cost $30. With the engine partially-lifted, you can adjust the Leveller-Beam to tilt the engine this way & that, and also adjust the jack to raise & lower the transmission slightly. This helps get everything in line, and is particularly useful when reinstalling the engine. Good luck.
-
Thanks for this tip. Yes, I've been using WD40! I'm going to try ATF + Acetone. (ATF means Auto Trans Fluid, right?) What proportions would you suggest?
-
Thank for the replies. I would love not to have to remove the long outer lateral-link bolts, and take out the rear-diff that way. Can that really be done? It seems to me that the output-shafts engage into the rear-diff by quite a bit. I haven't tried prying out an output-shaft from the rear-diff, since I've assumed that it wouldn't work with the wheels in place. I have been following the procedure in the FSM, which says that the lateral-links must be disconnected from the wheel, so that the wheels and output-shafts (rear-axles) can be pulled outwards freely, and be withdrawn from the diff. And I've also found this write-up, which suggests the same thing: http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/diy-upgrading-replacing-rear-differential-14270.html?s=041abbabc731a0fd38f9148b3b5bc0ec& Has anyone managed to get a rear-diff out, without messing with the rear-suspension? By the way, the reason for wanting to work on my rear-diff, is a rumbling sound from the rear-end, and the subsequent finding of a loose output-shaft. I've edited my original post to add the 'rear-end rumble'.
-
2002 Forester 5MT, 205,000km I am trying to remove my Rear Differential, to fix it (I think that one of the output-shaft taper-roller bearings is worn - I have a rear-end rumble & about 1mm radial & axial play on the output-shaft at the diff). But I am stuck on the first step of the procedure. I cannot get the suspension lateral-links (front & rear) disconnected. I cannot remove the long outer lateral-link bolt (#20540AA000). This has a 19mm hex head, and is about 150mm (6") long. I can remove the 19mm nut, and I can turn the actual bolt with difficulty, using lots of lubricant and a long breaker-bar. But the bolt will not move along its length to remove it. I've tried hammering on the loosened nut, but the bolt won't move. How can I remove this bolt? I'm reluctant to use heat, as this will destroy the rubber bushings. But maybe that doesn't matter, as it could be that a rubber bushing is seized onto the bolt any way. Any advice for me? Thanks. EDITED to add "a rear-end-rumble"
