forester2002s

The EJ251 engine in my 2002 Forester weighs 119 kg (262 Lbs). I had trouble finding this info online, so I thought that I would post it here. I had taken the engine out to replace the clutch, and before resting the engine on the floor, I weighed it on my bathroom scales. Not exactly 100% scientific, but close enough. The weight is for a bare engine: - No oil; - No coolant; - No A/C pump; - No Alternator; - No Power-steering pump. But includes: - Flywheel and clutch; - Timing-belt, all idlers and covers; - Main drive-pulley; - Rocker-covers and spark-plugs in place; - Engine-mounts attached; - Intake & Exhaust manifolds attached.

I found this 5-year old thread while trying to solve my clutch problem. This poster had the same symptoms that I had, and mine resolved itself suddenly just like in his post. I had changed my clutch in my 2002 Forester 5MT. I changed the friction-disc, the pressure-plate, throw-out bearing with new clips, and the pilot-bearing. All new parts from Subaru. The engine went back in OK, and it fired up first time. So far, so good. But with the engine running in neutral, and the clutch-pedal to the floor, I couldn't change gears. When I tried reverse, the gears grinded. When I tried first, the synchromesh wouldn't let me in. There were no unusual noises from the clutch. It was as if the clutch was clamped firmly together. With the engine off, I could change into all gears. I left it overnight, then I checked and rechecked the clutch-pedal, the slave-cylinder, the clutch-fork. All seemed to be working OK. I asked myself: Could it be a broken clutch-fork? I had checked the fork visually, and had seen no problem with it. Could it have been the pilot-bearing seized? But I had installed a new Koyo pilot-bearing, and used the splined alignment tool to center the clutch-disc. I was on the point of pulling the engine, when I came across this post. So I tried starting the engine in first, then in reverse, each time allowing the car to lurch forward or back, and then immediately braking hard to stall the engine. After a while, I sensed that perhaps there was a slight improvement, so I went for a drive. My plan was to drive down to the mailbox in first gear. I started off, and out of habit, I changed into second gear: it worked! All gears worked! Reverse as well! Something that had been sticking, had now freed itself. If I hadn't read this post, I would have probably pulled the engine. So thanks to the OP! EDIT: Afterthought - If I've learnt anything from my experience, it is to do a trial-assembly of the friction-disc to the splined input-shaft of the transmission. Next time I'm doing a clutch job, I'll add that intermediate step of temporarily sliding the new friction-disc onto the splined-shaft, just to make sure that it moves freely, and that there is nothing to catch on. And only then will I assemble the clutch to the flywheel.

I spray WD-40 into the PCV valve periodically, and then give it a good shake before reinstalling it. After doing this for 10 years on my Forester, I felt guilty and bought a new PCV valve. But I've kept the old one as a spare, because it seems to be perfectly serviceable.

It could be that with 'regular' fuel, your engine is knocking on acceleration. Or should I say 'trying to knock', because the Knock-Sensor will attempt to prevent knocking by adjusting the timing automatically. So with changed timing, you get reduced performance/acceleration. Using higher-octane fuel, the tendency to knock is reduced, and you get normal acceleration. Why is your engine knocking? I don't know. Back in the old-days of leaded-fuel, combustion chambers were prone to a build-up of deposits. When these got bad enough, the hot-deposits could cause pre-ignition with the familiar knocking sound. But that is all in the past, now that we have unleaded-fuel and computer-controlled timing. Anybody have any other ideas?

Bad engine mounts?

Have you tried using higher-octane fuel, to rule out the knock sensor?

And thanks for posting your progress, including the glitches. I'm going to be doing the same work on my Forester soon, and reading this has helped me get prepared.

Have you tried higher-octane fuel? Perhaps the knock-sensor is doing its job.

You might have a leak from one of the roof-rack side-rails. Water can get in through one of the mounting-studs on the roof. Water can then drip down the inside of the roof-liner and exit somewhere inside the car. In my case, I had a pool of water in the trunk; but it could equally well find its way to the carpet.

Could be a leaking headgasket. The leaking coolant would be swept back towards the firewall. Check the lower rear portion of the headgasket to see if it is wet to the touch.

If you do this, make 100% sure that the transmission is in Neutral or Park, with the parking-brake set. Otherwise the car might lurch forward unexpectedly.

Start with something simple: - take the battery out of the key-fob ((or take the fob a good distance away from the car)

Different brands of tires may have different handling characteristics: - different internal construction (number and construction of plies). - different tread design. - different rubber compound. All of this can affect road handling. At the very least, you should have the same pair of tires of the front, and another pair on the rear. In other words don't put mismatched tires on the front, nor on the rear. However, even this can result in dodgy braking. My own preference is to have all four tires the same.

Glad you found the problem. And thanks for reporting back with the solution.

The difference could be the tires... A car with all-seasons (hard rubber tread), and somewhat worn down, might spin its wheels. However a car with good winter tires (soft rubber tread) might drive away easily.

My pull-out coffee-cup holder sometimes squeaks. Actually more of a vibration. Especially loud with two full cups in place.

'Headlights burning dim' could be related to a bad ground somewhere.

Does the fan work on all speed-settings?

2002 Forester 2.5 MT (stock OEM compressor): - LP side o-ring: Subaru #73039TA0120 (21.50 mm OD; 16.80 mm ID) - HP side o-ring: Subaru #73039TA0140 (15.80 mm OD; 11.10 mm ID)

I've used Fram filters for years. Never had a problem. I tend to change my oil filters more often than recommended, so they are not in service for very long. Maybe some other filters have better-looking innards; but if the Fram does the job, then I'm happy.

Thanks for posting this. Did you have to glue the split-hose, to hold it in place?

The CEL is emissions-related. I cannot imagine that it has anything to do with the seat-heaters. Your problem sounds like a loose connection or ground-fault. To start with, check the electrical resistance of the seat-heaters, and compare between the two seats (there are connectors under each seat).

My 2002 Forester came equipped with P215/60/R16 tires, and stock wheels with a 55-mm offset. I bought the same size snow-tires 5-years ago, and mounted them on steel-rims with a 42-mm offset. I've had no clearance problems at all. I bought the steel-rims at Canadian Tire (Item No.09-6099-8, which I now cannot find on their website). I keep my snow-tires on all winter - anytime when the ambient temperature is below about 5C (40F). The softer rubber on the snow-tires makes for much surer road handling, even on a dry pavement. On a snow-covered road, the AWD plus snow-tires are amazing. I see from the weather forecast that Ontario is being blasted with cold weather and snow. You'll love those snow-tires.

Ain't this forum wonderful?

I keep track of my gasoline purchases, and enter them into a spreadsheet. It is then easy to plot gas consumption. (I love graphs - give me set of numbers, and I'll plot a graph). The figures from each gas fill are not much help; they jump all over the place, based on how much fuel actually goes into the top of the tank. So I plot a 5-fill moving average; I average out the fuel consumption from the the previous 5 fills, and I plot that. The graph is now fairly smooth, and one can detect long-term changes to consumption. Most of my driving is in and around the city, but on longer trips I can see the improvement quite clearly on the graph. I bought this car new, and 10-years and 190,000-km later, the fuel consumption really hasn't changed significantly over time.