forester2002s

Your link does not work. There's a problematic C: in the link, which leads nowhere.

Could be grease leaking out of a split rubber boot on the passenger-side inner front CV-Joint. The burnt grease smells something like fried grasshoppers.

Many 'weird' electrical problems are due to bad grounding problems. I would check all grounds associated with the headlights, and cruise-control.

I would replace the engine-mounts and the stabilizer-links first, and then see if this corrects the problem.

If you can get underneath the car safely, check the various components of the suspension, both front and rear. Grab hold of the various rods and links, and give them a good shake. You can expect some movement, but you should not hear any rattling. And check all of the suspension rubber bushings visually. Sometimes the rubber deteriorates, and it is pretty obvious to see when these need replacing. One particular component to check is the rear stabilizer-link. There's one on each side, kind of 'C' shaped, with bushings at each end of the 'C'. If the bushings deteriorate, they will rattle when you shake the link. And this can be another source of 'rumbling'.

Try your local 'Industrial Fasteners' wholesale counter. More and more places now carry metric bolts.

Also, the front crankshaft oil-seal sometimes leaks. Easy to replace when doing the timing-belt.

Replace Engine oil + filter; Check transmission oil level; Check rear-diff oil level.

One possibility: Did the clutch release bearing (I'm assuming that you installed a new one) slide freely on the input-shaft for the transmission? If not, then the release-bearing might get caught-up on the shaft, and not allow a smooth clutch operation.

Does your car have a parking-light switch on top of the steering column? You may have accidentally turned it on.

From the underside of the head, you'll need to turn the spark-plug clockwise to get it out. An easy-out may not work, as it will only grip in the counter-clockwise direction.

If it's leaking at the bottom of the timing-belt cover, then it's most likely coming from the front-crankshaft seal.

"Leaking profusely"? I would first check the oil filter. Is it screwed on tight? Is it leaking through the seal? If it's not the filter, then I would suspect the crankshaft seal. These tend to leak oil, which then drips out at the bottom of the timing-belt cover. Could also be the oil-pressure sending unit, located on top of the block.

Blocked fuel filter?

The warning lamps in my 2002 are all mounted on the printed-circuit board of the cluster. There are no wires going to each lamp, as they connect (screw-in) directly to the PCB. It's a bit time consuming the get at the PCB, - there are quite a few items to remove to get at the back of the cluster. Your 1990 may be different.

Your rotors may have been overheated at some point. Yes, they are designed to get hot, but too much heat for too long can alter the metallurgy of the steel. Sometimes, this causes a discoloration of the surface; other times it might cause the 'cracking' or 'crazing' that you describe. Overheating can also cause the rotors to warp (sideways). It doesn't take much of a warp to cause the steering wheel to shake when braking.

Try pushing hard on the door itself, whilst unlocking.

I watched the video. I recommend cleaning the old grease off of the CV rollers and the inside of the cup, before adding the new grease. I was surprised that this wasn't done in the video.

I've used a flat-blade flexible paint-scraper. It's thin enough to get into the joint just a bit. Leave it in there and then get a small flat-blade screwdriver into the partially-open joint. Then a slightly larger screwdriver next to the smaller one. And so on, until the joint is open all the way around.

These green connectors are meant to be disconnected for normal use. When connected, the ECU goes into a diagnostic mode, and various components (eg fans) are tested, and various warning lights are activated. IIRC, the ignition should be OFF when connecting the two green connectors. Then with the ignition in the ACC (or is it RUN position?), the diagnostics are activated. Don't try to start the engine with the two green connectors connected.

Thanks for the tip about a caulking gun as a clamp. It never occurred to me to use one for other than caulking. I am going to try it out next time I have to glue wood or plywood together.

Have you tried rotating the brightness adjustment ring? It's probably located on the same switch-stalk as the headlight-switch. That adjustment ring allows you to vary the panel lights from zero to 100%. Maybe a flakey contact?

or leave the antenna extended?

My first-aid kit includes a roll of 1"-wide white adhesive-tape. I've used the tape as a temporary fix on split hoses. Doesn't seal completely, but it has got me out of trouble.

I saw this recall on the TV news the other night. The story about the 2016 Legacy recall aired just before a commercial break. A few seconds later, the first ad came on the TV; guess what? it was an ad extolling the virtues of the 2016 Legacy. Talk about bad timing!