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forester2002s

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Everything posted by forester2002s

  1. Personally, I would go for the 2010 EJ. That's because I do all my own maintenance, and the EJ is easy to work on. Replacing EJ headgaskets is doable for the DIY-type of owner. Maybe the 2012 FB feels nicer/newer, and drives smoother/quieter; but if something goes wrong, it will be more difficult to work on. And don't get me started about CAN-Bus. I think that both the 2010 EJ and the 2012 FB have CAN-Bus computers and wiring. A nightmare for the DIYer! If you want to get a headache, read this: CAN bus on Wikipedia
  2. Coolant full? Then leaking on ground after driving? Then coolant-overflow reservoir is empty? Unfortunately, this sequence points to an EJ head-gasket failure.
  3. Easy enough to do a quick check, by removing a spark plug. If the engine is flooded, the spark-plug would be wet with fuel.
  4. If the starter-solenoid 'clicks' when you try to start, that means that the clutch-pedal has been depressed and is working as it should.
  5. I missed that in your original post. So it's new starter, and it 'clicks'. That suggests that it is trying to connect 12V from the battery to the starter. Try measuring the voltage at the 12V terminal (the large heavy-duty cable) on the outside of the starter. There should be 12V here at all times.
  6. Does the starter-motor 'click' once when you try to start? If so, it could be worn contacts in the starter-solenoid.
  7. Make sure that your AAA membership is up-to-date, so that you can get a tow if you get stranded. These more modern designs, using CAN-Bus, are akin to fly-by-wire. They can play-up at any-time, and are a nightmare to debug. Sorry, but I can't be of more help.
  8. Could also be the rear driveshaft, especially if you get a vibration under load.
  9. On my 2002 5MT Forester, I just use 80W90 non-synth, whichever brand is cheapest. Never had a problem with the gearbox.
  10. Sorry, but can't help. However, looking through those 10+ year-old posts, I see that 'nipper' was part of the conversation. Whatever happened to 'nipper'? Seems to have disappeared off the scene.
  11. I'm not familiar with a 1998. But if it has a hydraulic-actuated clutch, then the slave-cylinder may need replacing (located at the top-rear of the engine-block). If it's cable-actuated, maybe the cable is sticking.
  12. I get the P0420 on my 2002 EJ251 every few months, and then I delete the code. My car normally just does local runs. But once in a while, I go on the freeway at high speed; if it's a hot day, the CEL comes on and it's a P0420 code. So I delete it. Been doing this for years. The engine runs beautifully!
  13. I did a google search; there's lot of info available on line, mostly sponsored bu additive sellers. Here's one helpful article: Does gasoline go bad?
  14. Is the coolant-level in the overflow reservoir behaving as it should? i.e. is the coolant-level when cold lower than when you stop the hot engine at the destination? And does some coolant then get sucked back into the radiator, as the hot engine cools down to cold (say overnight)?
  15. On my 2017 Forester (TR580 CVT), the periodic drain-&-refill only changes about 1/2 of the total CVT fluid. The drain-plug is at the very bottom of the trans. And there's no mention of a CVT filter-change. I wonder if the periodic drain-&-refill is not about refreshing the fluid, but is really about flushing out any wear-debris from the bottom of the case?
  16. Each time that I have bought a replacement rubber-boot, it came with replacement grease and replacement mounting-bands.
  17. Sure sounds to me that this is valve-train related (in olden-days, this would have been called 'noisy tappets'): - either incorrect clearances around the cams; - or in need of an oil-change.
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