Dr. RX

Actually there is an interior break , 93 to 96, and 97 to 01. If you are just doing the rear seats, it really doesn't matter, but up front, that dash is different and the door panels will not match. Exterior there was the same break, but part will bolt on, so if you go with a 97 or newer front, you'll need the hood, the grille and the headlight/turnsignal assys. The bumpers interchange no problem.

Well it sounds like it's time to dig into the engine. There must be something wrong with the way the engine is picking up the singles from the two sensor (crank and cam angle). On the crank, there is an odd shaped gear looking piece that looks like some of the teeth are missing, this is the trigger for the crank sensor. One of the triggers may have broken off somehow. Anyway this would be the first one I would check. The cam angle sensor triggers are part of the left cam pulley, I don't know of a single time when one of these were damaged. If you have access to a 91 Legacy FSM, check out section 2-7 page 10 and 11. This is kind of out there, but before you get digging into the engine, see if changing out the sensors (crank and cam angle) does anything. You are getting spark in the front cylinders, so they seem to be working, but they are part of the system, and shouldn't be over looked.

Coug is right 1 & 3 are the right side and 2 & 4 are the left side, so the front two would be 1 & 2 and the rears would be 3 & 4. It could be a back coil pack, if you replace that and you still have the problem, pull the belt covers and see if something is wrong with the sensor pick ups on the crank and left cam pulley. If that is the case, you have to replace those parts. I'm betting on a bad coil pack.

Well, that depended upon the owner, I have offered many time to come over and fix the clutch issue (bleeding the system) now that I know the special trick to doing that, but he has always had something else going on and didn't want to take the time away from that. I have made that same offer to a person who is interested in buying the car, and they will be brining it back to my place to get it drivable. By the way, I didn't change the motor mounts on the EJ20G engine that I put in the RX and they worked great, no problem. I have noticed on later versions of the EJ motor mounts there is a tab that would cause problems with an EA car, but if you grind those tabs off, they will work. Will if you think it is that easy to do the wiring, why don't you come up with a simple conversion chart and diagram that shows which wires need to be spliced and which ones don't. Subaru really isn't much help here because the wire colors are not always as the show on the diagram, and the colors used, change from year to year. It can go 4 or 5 years the same, then change the next year. I guess that you are not proud of the work that you do, or you'd be willing to share it with the rest of the Subaru community.

I hope you have the EM4-6F, that one seems to be the best for your needs if you install the SVX engine into the car. If you are currently using another SDS model on your XT-6 motor, you may need to get the 6F.

Well using a US model to start with would be easier, since there is probably an english language diagram around. Try it with a Japanese diagram and little knowledge of the Japanese language. I am no novice to the wiring business, I am an Electrical Engineer at Boeing and work with airplane wire bundles on a daily basis. When I did the EJ into the RX, I used an aftermarket ECU. While the manufacturer stated that it would work on a Subaru, it was no really designed to do so. Never the less, I did get the engine running, but then we had the clutch problem and couldn't drive the car. If I were to do this again, I would use the stock ECU (which I still have) and just rewire the exsisting system. I also have experience doing that, having rewired a JDM WRX engine into my 96 US model Impreza. So with the experience I tell you that of these type of conversions, WIRING is the hardest part, since the rest is basically bolting parts in place. If the motor mounts are simpler to other EJ models, there might be a small tab that needs to be ground away, otherwise it should work. So if there are others with similar or more experience then myself doing these type of conversions, please step forward and let us hear from you.

Excuse me, the engine does run, there is a problem with the clutch so we can't drive it. So before you start with your sarcastic remarks, get your information straight. I'm guessing that you have never tackled such a conversion, or you wouldn't be say the the wiring is easy. Believe me, it is the hardest part of the conversion.

Oh were it only that simple. The XT6 engine is based upon the EA82 series engines and the SVX based upon the EJ series engines, therefore you'd have to re-wire the car to accept the SVX ECU since these engine do not have distributors but use sensors to set firing. Here is a good link for thing to get off the SVX, http://www.smallcar.com/checklist.htm

See if you can find a place that sells the CD that comes with the Tribeca B9 nav system, there is an english version of that, maybe it is the same system.

Well, that is one way, and no I wasn't kidding, I wanted to make sure that he knew what he was getting. I don't really know what he thinks he is saving by doing this, it would probably be better to fabricate a custom exhaust system, or get bigger tires so he won't be as likely to crush the 'Y' pipes.

WOW, that sound like my Alfa that I used to run. They had buttons that sat on the top of the valve stems, there was a cup (cam follower) that sat on top of the entire valve and spring. We first measured the clearance gap, then removed the cam, measured the thickness of the buttons, by knowing those two, we could figure out the size of button needed to bring the clearance gap back into spec. I would imagine doing that same thing on these engines.

So, since the turbo is part of this exhaust system, how do you plan to bypass the turbo?

I have hydraulic valve lash adjusters on my EJ20Gs, there is no way to adjust the valves. I'm pretty sure that all Subaru DOHC engine have them.

Gee, if you gave me your Nikon D70 I'd tell you.

I think it is already sold, but again, I'm not at liberty to say anything.

But in defense of the owner of the UltimateRX that I created, I think he just got too many projects going at the same time and the RX got put on the very back burner. I've talked to him many times, he stated that "someday" he'd like to get it running properly, but then he starts another project.

Well, not 100% true, Ultimate did run, but there was a problem with the clutch, so we couldn't drive it. That problem still exsists. It might be coming back to it's birth place soon to get that fixed and finish all the loose end. I'll let eveyone know when that happens. No Tex does not own the car, in fact I still have the title, the person who bougth it from me never transfered the title. Corky

I ran a USDM Turbo Legacy VLSD (3.90) in my 86 GL-10 Turbo Sedan for years. I also have a 3.90 D/R tranny in the car.

Insanity would be the best description. Look how close the left (driver side) turbo is clutch master cyclinder reservoir and would put it almost on top of the brake master cyclinder reservoir. Any performance driving would melt both, catching the fluid on fire and burning up the car. With all the polished metal under the hood, I'd say this is for show, not for go.

Thanks, like I said, I had heard something different, but never checked it out.

TROGDOR, it wasn't the ratio that I was talking about, it was the axle, I heard somewhere that autos had a 25 spline axle like the turbos, going to a 3.70 turbo tranny with 25 spline axles, you might not need to change the axles with an auto tranny.

I'm not sure of the costs, but here is a parts list for a manual tranny. You'll need a tranny, rear diff and axles out of a turbo car. I'm not too sure about an auto conversion, but I know you'll need the tranny and rear diff, you may not need to change the axles.

WOW, I never knew that, I thought that prior to WWII, Fuji Heavy Industries was know as Nakajima. In WWII, all Nakajima planes were powered by radial engines. After Subaru was formed, there was an private airplane similar to a Cessna, that was powered by a Subaru engine, but that was after those engines were used in the cars. Opposing piston engines are not the trade mark of Porsche, the original Volks Wagon (1938) was powered by a flat 4 designed by Dr. Ferry Porsche, but there were others in the world prior to that, they just never got the notority that Porsche did. To maintain a low center of gravity, the boxer is a good choice, I believe that is why Subaru choose it, not because Porsche and VW were using one.

Actually, the best is to use Legacy or Impreza front struts, knuckles and axles, use the XT6 tie rod ends and brakes. In the rear you have only one choice, and that is XT6 parts. Check my web site for info on these conversions.

You might want to read this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42695