azsubaru

The General is right - the ticking won't hurt anything, and it doesn't mean you need another engine. As an example, my Loyale ticked - loudly - for a couple years. It was so loud it was embarassing driving down the street sometimes. Much like you, I was told I needed an engine overhaul or replacement engine. Then I found this forum and learned about MMO and Seafoam. I put a half can of Seafoam (I believe this is similar to MMO) in the oil, ran about 500 miles, then changed the oil with fresh 10W30. The ticking almost disappeared completely after a while. It's been maybe 40,000 miles now and the engine ticks a little from time to time, but that's about it.

Have to agree on the No Leak, but not about the lifter noise. If it's varnish on the lifters that's causing the noise, MMO or Seafoam will often fix the problem. It's a darn cheap and effective thing to try before you change lifters. The TOD may come back eventually due to more varnish forming, but I don't feel thats the same as covering up a problem.

sounds like it's advanced too far. Whether the connectors are plugged in shouldn't make THAT much difference. I noticed no diffference at all with my Loyale. Paint a white mark on the flywheel at the desired position with whiteout or something bright to make sure you can see it easily. If you still can't see it, there's definitely something wrong - sorry about this one, but are you sure you have the right plug wire? if so, start from scratch and check everything about the timing.

Those switches can get dirty and quit working. If no bad fuses, take the door panel off - not too hard on a Loyale. Make sure the window control panel is plugged in tight. If that's ok, then you can take the window control panel out, take it apart and clean it with a pencil eraser. Do it on a large clear surface, because there are some little parts in there that can go rolling off into oblivion.

I took the electric fan completely out of my Loyale over a year ago, no overheating issues at all - and this is Phoenix! Most likely the radiator, but you should check the thermostat before spending the bucks.

Agreed - most likely a heater hose. If that's it, you can save a few bucks by using standard heater hose instead of buying the specially formed ones

My 91 Loyale may have a different disty, but if water gets down deep in the distributor itself, it will do pretty much the same thing. Before I figured it out, it once took about 3 days to dry out.

Unfortunately, sounds like worn synchronizers in the tranny.

Sounds like a fuel problem to me - any chance there's water in the tank?

I like this - thanks! I was thinking about moving mine away from the engine to cool them down and see if it helped. Has anyone tiried that?

because he's DAD!

The fact that you can fix pretty much anything yourself. And I love the tight turn radius, too.

I swear, everytime I read on the board about something new, seems like it happens to me! My Loyale did this very thing today. Code 24 on mine, which I believe is Idle Air Control Valve.

I like GD's PCV diagnosis . Do 84's have the "long right hand turn" syndrome? that could explain it.

My Loyale was doing that intermettantly, and I found the coil wire was burned completely in two at the distributor end. It was under the rubber holder and down in the disty cap where I couldn't see it.

Whether it actually affects performance has been argued several times on the board, with good reasons why or why not covered, as well as how to block it off. I don't think there was ever a conclusion, but mine hasn't been working for several months and I can't tell any difference.

My 91 is still going strong, 16 years on it so far

If it's a hydraulic clutch - fluid?

I bought an Accel 8140 last year and it lasted 6 months. It was one of the Taiwan units. Thanks to this site, I had the stock coil with me and was up and running in a couple minutes. Subaru coil lifespan = 16+ years. Accel lifespan = 6 months. There are better ways to invest 50 bucks in your car.

Agreed, loose belt, but you may need a new one. Cheap belts will stretch and squeal quickly, so get the good stuff. I use a metal horseshoe stake to pry mine into position to get it good and tight. I also found it easier to tighten if you take the alternator off so you can get in there to it a little better, but I usually don't do it that way.

IAC is on the front of the throttle body. Has a 5/8" vacuum hose about a ft long coming out the top and going towards the pass side. It can be electrically bad (which should throw an ECU code) or mechanically bad, which can usually just be cleaned up. I use carb cleaner on mine.

Maybe a bad idle switch

different. just looked into this myself

How to: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/engineremoval.htm

Look on the back of your current speakers and you'll most likely see "6 ohms" or "4 ohms" or "8"ohms" that's the resistance. Instead of the word "ohms" you may see the greek symbol for Omega.