EYE_WHY

My record with the 94 Loyale is 38.2 mpg. About 150 miles of highway driving 70-75mph. I was extremly impressed! Although it seems that the harder and harder I drive it, the better mileage it gets around the city. Can't quite figure that out, guess it just likes the high RPMs.

This may sound kinda dumb and noob-ish, but I have only been driving a standard for 6 or 7 months and still don't know all the ins and outs of it. Russ, when you talk about matching RPMs and double clutching, thats all cool but it doesn't slow the car down any correct? This is just to downshift to a new gear, will you be still traveling at (relatively) the same speed?

I haven't noticed any puddles from brake fluid and with the car off, the brake pedal is hard as a rock. I really want to get this fixed, it makes me nervous to think that I may not be able to stop in time if something happens in front of me.

Also, the little LED that flashes codes is extremly dim (at least for my car). Pulling the codes at night helped ensure I got the right code.

hey bgd, I have been looking for some bigger wheels too. I found a set of four pug wheels at Silver's Auto in Orono, the guy said they weren't very pretty, but they would do the job just fine. I passed them up, so they're yours if you want.

I (think) I have the same problem (?) My brake pedal goes a good ways down to the floor without doing any stopping at all. Infact, the other day I had to stop quickly from about 55mph. I jammed the brake pedal to the floor (and I mean the floor, as in I was pressing it all the way in) and I didn't slow down as fast as I would have liked to, I was scared to the point of thinking about yanking up on the e-brake but before I could, traffic started moving again. Still, the experience left me a little weary of the braking power of my 94' loyale. Any ideas?

Me too, I think one of the moderators said they were updating and hadn't added that section yet?

I just got back from hanging out with my friends for about and hour or two, I got a ride back to my car to find the door open!! I checked around to make sure everything was still in there, which it was. My car was in Mcdonalds parking lot for 1-2 hours with the door wide open at midnight and it didn't even look like someone had as mush as peeked inside. Gotta love Maine . . . . It must suck having your car broken into and wrecked, I would hate to live in a place where I always have to worry about the stuff in my car. Hope you get that damage fixed and you catch the guy who did it!!!

Yes cougar, with the test light hooked up, when I pull the fuse, it does dim then gradually (over 4 or 5 seconds) gets up to the brightness it was originally at. I tried unplugging every connector that went to my power seatbelts and power windows, but the light was still on. Tomorrow I'll pull the fusible links and see if I can find anything. I'm gunna try to borrow my friends ammeter because I am also curious about the current drain. Thanks for all your, maybe someday I'll find this d#%$ drain!!! I also noticed that my CEL didn't come on when i had my key in the 'on' position, I am pretty sure I just forgot to plug something in, but it did seem strange that all the other lights (Charge, oil, etc.) came on. Hmm.....

I agree, those wheels look awesome. The link works fine for me . . .

Ya, I checked the alternator, its all good. The alt. was replaced about a year ago when someone else had the car and they were trying to figure out the drain, so its in good condition. Fuse #5 does make the test light dim a little, but after about 5 or 6 seconds the light lights up again to the brightness it orignally was. Fuse #5 seems to control my horn, hazard lights, clock, radio and seatbelts.

yep, that is what I was gunna tackle next. I figured that whatever the drain was, it wasn't coming through any of the fuses, so it must be something that uses power directly from the battery and I didn't notice an "automatic seatbelt fuse" in the manual or on the fuse cover so maybe thats the culprit . . .

So then I shouldn't be worried if fuse #5 powers my automatic seatbelts?? I was almost positive that the leak had something to do with those seatbelts.

UPDATE: I think I have found the problem. The power leak lies somewhere in my power seatbelts. When I take the #5 fuse out, my automatic seatbelts won't operate, but neither does my stereo. I think some power wires are bare amd touching others. I already started taking my dash out, and will finish and inspect wires tomorrow. Hopefully this will be an end to my power loss woes!!

Haha, I made a dumb mistake and forgot to check my fuses before I posted. It was just a blown fuse that supplies power to the SPFI, so understandably it wouldn't start. Thanks for the reply though.

Ok, well, I did some more electrical testing and found out a couple of things. First off, fuse #5 seems to control everything!! I tested each individual fuse, and fuse #5 was the only one when taken out would make the test light dim. Also, everything works fine if all fuses are in, but nothing works if fuse #5 is out and things work fine when fuses except #5 are out. So after pulling ALL fuses, I looked at the test light, and although dim, it was still lit. Now for the big problem, after I put all the fuses back in, I noticed that with the key in the on position all of the red warning lights came on except the "check engine" light. I found this kinda odd so I tried to start the car, nothing. The starter motor and everything works, the engine just doesn't catch. I am totally stumped, everything is back in and connected and the car still won't start and I just drove it to the auto parts store 3 hours ago!!!!! Please help!

Actually, I just double checked all of the fuses and the #5 fuse makes the test light dim substantially, but does not make it go out completely. No other fuses make the light go out or even dim.

I used a test light and found the leak to be either my hazard lights, horn or clock (all on fuse #5). I figured I could just pull that fuse and all would be good but then found out that when one fuse is gone, none of the others get power. Should I just wire the fuse panel to jump over that bad fuse or should I take apart my dash and steering wheel to try to find the real leak? Thanks

Ya, I've had my Loyale in some pretty hairy places, they sure do take a beating though!!!

Why shouldn't he buy it Tim? I wouldn't trade my '94 for anything, well ,..... anything I could afford. Great mileage, relatively dependable, nice 4wd system, wicked easy to work on and pretty fun to drive. Just keep up on PM and I think that car would be a pretty good buy.

Haha, is that title related to "boom goes the dynamite"? Funniest news guy ever . . . .

Ya, the only good places to do some speed runs in Bangor is outer essex and outer broadway, cops like to hang out around there though. I had noticed when I took off that whole air intake assembly and looked inside that the area where the plate is kinda caved in, guess I should fix it . . .

bgd, my "subaru fi" plate is peeling pretty bad. Are you saying this is affecting performance?? Also, where is this "area 51"? I want to test out my Loyale too:brow:

Looks like you had yourself some fun, is that Loyale stock?

Yeah, I've heard the stories about metric wheels. They are definitly 15" ers. Anyone have a vague idea of how much shipping the 4 wheels with tires mounted on them would be coming from Kansas to Maine ? I tried the UPS estimator thing and got around $70 for 2 packages, one 50lbs (wheels) one 40lbs (tires) both with dimensions 17" x 17" x 40" (I guestimated for the dimensions and weight).