EYE_WHY

Ya, I've double checked with the seller and he assured me they are NOT metric. This guy has 4 505 sedans and is an avid Peugeot collector, so I'm pretty sure he knows what he is talking about. Thanks for all the help guys.

Well, I was just messing around with the tire calculator, so I think I have a little better understanding of what will fit and what won't fit. The thing I was trying to avoid was buying these new wheels and finding out the tires on them don't fit and then shelling out more $$$ for new tires. Thanks for all your help guys.

Alright, one more quick question. Do you think the tires currently on those wheels would fit my Loyale, or should I start looking around for some smaller ones?

Well anyways, here are the wheels. They look pretty good from the picture. Looks like 15" maybe?? They shouldn't have any rubbing issues on a non-lifted Loyale correct?

Speaking of power splits between front and rear and all that jazz, anyone know what the split is for a 94 Loyale MT SR? Just curious.

Thats the same kit I have (and most popular kit on the board I think). It looks and works great! Here is mine with JVC headunit installed.

These may sound kinda dumb to some of you, but I am trying to work out a deal with someone to get a set of Pug wheels and I want to make sure everything works out right. The wheels are alloy off of a 1985 505, not sure if they are 14" or 15", is there anyway to tell by car year or model? Also, the seller says that all lug nuts are included, I looked at the pictures of the special alloy lug nuts on this site, I assume a normal lugnut wrench would work on them? I would only be getting 4 wheels, so no spare. Should I keep one of my stock wheels around to serve as a spare or would this cause some problems? More questions will probably come to me as the deal progresses. Thanks for the help with all my questions so far, you guys have been extremely helpful.

Yeah, last night I took the ground wire off with the power wire still on and the cap drained. I did find out however that if the capacitor is off before I throw the master switch, the cap doesn't drain (the cap has an auto-turnoff feature after like 30 seconds). So my choices are either take apart the cap and see if I can tap into the relay that turns it on, or figure out the electrical leak in my car. I think I will devote a weekend to the latter, it would be nice to not have to turn that da|\/|n switch on and off all the time.

Here is my dilema: I am kind of an audio "hobbyist", I have my 94 Loyale rigged up to put out some music. The problem is that my Loyale has a fantom electrical leak somewhere, to combat this I put in a simple switch that cut off the ground to my battery. This was all fine and dandy until I bought a 1.5 farad power capacitor to help supply power to my amp when needed. When I switch off the ground for my battery, the power is sucked from my capacitor (a storage unit for power which gives it up very quickly) and my capacitor drops in volts very quickly (not good for a capacitor). If I install a switch on the ground of my capacitor and turn that switch off before I switch off the battery, would the capacitor still drain? Any ideas? TIA

Forgot to add that I took a look at the new Legacy and Outback wagons. The Legacy wagons look wicked sharp but the Outback wagons remind me a lot of newer Volvo station wagons, still look good though.

I agree with Andyjo, that center grill is not appealing to me. I like the grills on the '05 wrx a lot more. This whole new grill setup (B9 Tribeca [extremly ugly IMO], '06 wrx, etc.) does not look good at all on these cars. I do like the new aerodynamic ideas and the torque split seems more logical than that of the '05. Just my $0.02

Haha, good way to think of it Skip!!

The manual from my '94 Loyale wagon states the firing order is 1-3-2-4. Hope this helps.

HAHAHAHA, Thats great. Ya, a friend of mine had an inclinometer with an altimeter on it in his 4runner and he said it was extremly useful.

Thanks, I'll hit up Mcbrat. What is the wiring for? backlighting?

I was browsing some subaru loyale pictures the other day and I came across one sweet loyale that had an inclinometer cluster in it from a toyota 4runner. Seems like a wicked good idea to me, anyone have one or thought of it or have any idea where I could pick one up? TIA

Who is this Subie NUT you speak of?

Wow, glad to see another Subie owner in Maine. I live in Bangor. Do you do much offroading, know any good spots?

Yes there are a LOT of possible drains. My '94 Loyale has a fantom leak in it somewhere and I have given up on finding it. I just installed a heavy duty switch that switches the ground on and off. If I know shes gunna be sitting for awhile, I just turn off the switch. Never had any problems with this setup.

I am trying to get a guy to sell me his 15" pugs off a junked 505. Will 15" pugs fit on a non-lifted Loyale with no modification?? I have seen a lot of people with 14" pugs that look nice, but no 15" wheels without lifts.

I was driving my '94 Loyale (non-turbo) to camp the other day and at about 60 or 65mph my CEL came on. I didn't have a long ways to go and I figured I could just check it at camp. Well, I got there all in one piece, pulled the code and got a "code 32" or what would appear to be an oxygen sensor? I left the car sit overnight, started her up in the morning the CEL didn't come on. Then I drove home and kept an eye out for the CEL. The CEL never came on and I got her up to 75 just to see if maybe a higher speed would make it come on.. but it didnt. This has happened one other time after driving on the highway at about 65-70mph, I got to where I was going, let the engine cool down, started it back up and the CEL didn't come back on. So today after I got back from camp, I searched the message board for oxygen sensor help and found that usually o2 sensors only affect idle and slow speed, is this correct? If it is, any ideas on what could be causing the CEL and the code 32? TIA

I've seen acouple on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=40016&item=7973765275&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW I think they are only for 85-03 Subarus though, but ya never know.

Skip - I tested with both white connectors connected and no connectors connected. Both instances gave a code 5. Thats a great link BTW, very helpful, thanks. Cougar - Thanks for the post. Any idea what the proper NGK plugs would be for a '94 Loyale? Ill get right on that corroded ground lead tomorrow. Thanks again for your help guys.

Alright, I'm new and I have a few questions about my 1994 Loyale 5spd with 39,000 miles on it. I got it as a hand-me-down from my great aunt who rarely drove it (as you can tell) and mostly kept it in her garage. It does have some mild rust problems (only one little hole to the left of the driver side door and some other minor surface rust) that I will have to attack this summer. I guess she rode the clutch pretty bad because the first thing I had to do was drop $600 into a new clutch, but anyways, on with the questions. 1.I am getting very poor mileage (17-19mpg) driving around town, I am not a speed freak but I'm also not an old grandma driver. Mild traffic and very limited stop and go driving. I replaced my fuel filter, but haven't calculated MPG yet. Will the new filter help and aren't they supposed to be replaced every 30k anyways? Are there any other things I can do to help boost up the MPG??? 2. I have a phantom power leak in the car somewhere. The car used to be totally dead in about a day. I replaced the alternator and battery, no help. I have since installed a battery turn off switch which works great but it's really annoying to turn it on and off and to lose all of my radio presets and my time. I gutted the Loyale about a week ago, all seats and carpet out (trying to find some wire insulation damage or anything out of the ordinary that might constitute a power leak). I did find that what appears to be my ground wire on the passanger side power window relay is wicked corroded. I wasn't sure that that would be the source of the leak, so I left it be. I didn't find any other unusual things. Does anyone else have this phantom leak problem? Is it useless to search for the leak knowing they are lots of possible culprits? Are there any areas that like to steal power or things that are prone to bleeding power? 3.The CEL came on a couple nights ago when I was driving on the highway (about 65-70mph). I got home, turned the car off and then started it 5 minutes later and the light didn't come on. I didn't have a chance to check the code on it when I got home, but I did check the code today. I checked the "historic" codes and all I got was a code 05 (5 short blinks). Not sure what that is but someone said to ignor all single digit codes? Any ideas on what this might be? The light has not come on since. 4.I am looking to put acouple things on the car, Pug wheels and some nicer tires, driving lights, cone air filter etc. Are there any mods that are REALLY worthwhile? I know I will have a hard time finding pugs where I live (Eastern Maine), driving lights would be cool, but not really neccessary. It seems to me that the best thing to do is just the cone air filter (I already bought a MAF adapter and filter off ebay). With the cone filter, sould I keep it in pretty much the same place as the airbox or re-pipe somewhere else? Also, is a heat shield needed if I keep it in the "stock" position (I plan on just unbolting my airbox, putting on the cone filter and leaving the filter wherever it is). Any other ideas on cool mods to do? I think those are all the questions I have for now, but I will post more as they come to me. Thanks in advance to all those to answer.

I feel like a real baby, my 1994 Loyale only has 39,991 on it. It was my great aunts before she gave it to me. Runs like a champ and its the only one around my area that I know that still blows ice cold air through A/C.