EYE_WHY

Did you do the accord spring swap in the rear? Looks nice BTW

I asked him too Chux, this is what he said. Not sure if it helps or not, but I figure I may as well post it. Also, a rear receiver would be awesome! I think that is a wicked good idea.

Lucky! Beautiful wagon! I see almost no rust, what a steal!! Nice snag with that dual range tranny too. Have fun with it:brow:

Wow, that is a wicked sweet wagon Russ. I love that black. I can't wait to get my 15s. I was looking at those tires earlier Subie, and I really liked em especially the price. The only other thing I am worried about is the amount the tires will stick out from under the fender. Tires in Maine are supposed to be flush with the fenders. I doubt mine will, but hopefully it won't be too bad.

I think you should keep the wagon the way it is! Looks great IMHO!! I love that body kit, wicked nice wheels too. If I were you, I'd just take care of the rust and then leave her be!

Thanks Brian, I got a full set waitin' for me when I pick up the wheels. I was looking at 205/55 15s but now I am leaning more towards the 195/60 15's because they are a little smaller and I know of a couple of people who have run the same diameter tire with no problems (24.2") . Also, some really nice snow tires available in 195/60s which is what I am looking for.

Anyone have pics of their wagon or sedan with the 15" Pug flat spokes on them? Hopefully I will have some within a week, so I want to see what it might look like. Also, if you included tire size, that would be awesome. I am looking to run 205/55/15s or smaller on my set. From what I've heard, there shouldn't be any fitment issues on my unlifted Loyale. Besides speedo being off and maybe a little decrease in MPG, anything else I should look for? decreased sidewall pressure? anything that would make them unsafe? TIA

So I went to start my car this morning, and I noticed I kinda had to jiggle the key into the door lock for it to go in, and then it didn't even turn (it was pretty good ou 15-20 maybe). I ended up twisting my key a little trying to get the stupid door unlocked. So I unlocked the rear and crawled through and unlocked the doors. After school I go to unlock my car and no problems, key goes in and turns fine. I imagine this has something to do with the cold, but I can't imagine what . . .

whoops, guess I should open my eyes.

I know that the 14" alloy 505 wheels come in both 5.5" width and 6.0" width, what do most Subaru guys run? Do most tires easily fit both?

Where in Maine are you? Maybe we could go wheelin' sometime!

Operose - Are you really 83? Cause that would be sick!

Just to let you know, that post was over 2 years old so it might be difficult getting a response from them . . .

Thanks all, I'll just keep an old Subie wheel kicker around in my wagon. So if I were to get a flat on one of the front tires just swap a Pug from the back so I have same wheels up front and then a Subie wheel in back?

I will soon (hopefully) have a set of 14" alloys and I am trying to think ahead about a spare. The guy I am buying the set off doesn't have a spare and the only other place I could buy 1 wheel wants $50. Would it be safe to use a regular Subaru wheel as a spare in either the back left or right?

For as long as I can remember, the air vent left of the steering wheel has always let in air, no matter where I have the little "Vent - A/C" lever below it. The vent lets in air when the lever is on "vent", "A/C" or in the middle. I usually have to keep the vent directional guard all the way closed so I don't get a blast of cold air. However, when I turn on the heater, heat does come through the vent. I'm thinking that maybe the little blocker that I imagine blocks either the vent or the AC/heater depended on the lever is broken? Any ideas? Its gettin' cold in my car and I don't want to turn the heater all the way up or else my car won't make it up the hills!

I have that same problem kinda. Gas mileage has never been to good since I started driving. Usually around 20mpg around town (low of 17mpg) and 28-32mpg on the highway (not complaining). I have noticed the same thing you talked about Scott. Starts right up in the cold, idles at like 2000 to get warmed up then drops to 900+or-100rpm. However, when I start down the road, it bogs around 1500 and then again at around 2200ish. I keep my foot steady on the gas, but it is still sluggish in those rpm ranges. After it gets warmed up its great. I am still curious about the MPGs though. Just replaced plugs and changed oil about 300miles ago. I'm thinking disty is getting a little tired?

I just (last night) put some roof lights on my car. I used a pretty basic gutter mounted roof rack and a little aluminum spacer (looks kinda like o=o so that one end mounts on the rack through a screw and the other end attaches to the the light with a screw and bolt. I would upload some pics but I am on a 56k and that would take forever). So anyways, my question is how do you get your wires from outside to inside?? I have heard of people taking out antennas and routing wires through there or drilling holes somewhere but what is the simplist way to get wires inside?

Thanks Subarian, I was just gunna test resistance from one side of the coil to the other. If that doesn't work, experimentation will! I'll give it a shot, it seems like a pretty easy and worthwhile fix-up job.

The "1" and "2" on my fan control haven't worked for awhile. I finally did a little searching and found a great pic that should exactly where the resistor pack was for the motor. I took the pack off and discovered that 2 "resistors" (coils of wire) were broken. After a quick solder job, I got them put back together. --Sidenote: I had been hearing a sizzle sound (like water dropping on something hot) from behind my glove compartment. I had no clue what it was at the time, but everything (except the 1 and 2 fan control) seemed to be working fine. Sssooo, after I put the resistor pack back, I noticed some water around the base and some water dropping from the opening in the blower motor housing to the floormat. So, I am thinking that condensation from the blower housing (from cold air) is forming and dripping or running into the resistor pack, causing the Sizzle sizzle sound damaging the coils. Here is what I am thinking, test the coils for resistance, find some REAL resistors of the same rating, take off the coil resistors and solder on the real resistors. Anyone see any problems with this??? I think this should stop damage to resistors because even though the resistor will get hot, hot wires won't be exposed and the surface area of the actual resistor is much less than of a resistive coil. Sorry for the long post, thanks for reading.

Hmm,..ya, after looking more closely at that picture, those should belt buckles look very weird. I don't even think they are Subaru, I don't think any wagon models had shoulder belts in the back. Maybe a previous owner had 'em there for a child's seat or extra safety in the back seat????

You mean the odd shoulder belts instead of lap belts or that you can't find the buckle? I agree, those shoulder belts are pretty weird and I don't see any lap belts. I would venture a guess that its just shoulder belts in the back. If the issue is finding the buckles, they are probably under the bench seat. Pull up on the black strap in the middle, the seat will pop up and they will most likely be sittin' there.

Haha, no problem, glad I could help. Every now and then my belts do the same thing Bucky. They won't work one day and then just magically work the next. They have never not worked for more than a couple of days, so if yours stop working again, just give them some time and they will probably start up the next day.

:slobber: That is a beautiful wagon and it's in excellent condition too!!! If only it had 4wd, it would be perfect!! I really like that taller height in the back, adds some style to the otherwise kinda bland GLs. Very nice wagon.

On the back bench seat, along the bottom of the seat there should be a little pouch either velcroed or buttoned to the carpet, unhook it and there should be a pretty good sized allen wrench in it. I think there is a plastic tab that you have to pry off at the bottom of the door pillars on both the passenger and driver side, under that tab is a hole that you stick the allen wrench in. Rotate the allen wrench (can't remember which way) and the belts will move forward or back. Once you have the belt in the normal position (as if you were driving and the belt is over you) then you can just unclip when you need to get out. Hope this helps.