Subarutex

I am fully aware that the lack recirculating the air is what causes the idle to be rough. I might add, that I have now programmed my fuel computer to compensate for the lack of air at idle and to reduce the amount of fuel injected. I know you'll ask... i'll state it again. I run an Apexi SAFC. It has a function on there specially designed to counteract venting to atmosphere. Along with 10 tuning points you can set (by RPM) for it to adjust fuel by. It has been the best $150 I've spent. They retail for about $300, but can be found used on NASIOC quite frequently.

the large hose coming off the BOV is the recirculation hose. I have run the wrx intercooler/bov setup in 2 forms. The first, i took the metal elbow off the BOV (for the recirculation hose) and made a plate to put in its place that had a mesh over the big hole. Letting the air vent to atmosphere. I have also plumbed the recirculating line back into the air intake. Directly before it goes into the turbo. I noticed very little difference driving wise between the 2 methods. Idle was a little rougher with it venting to atmosphere... but you get the cooler sound. I'm going to be venting to atmosphere again... once everything gets back together. The small fitting on the top of the BOV is the vaccum reference. Plumb this directly to the vaccum line on the intake. (I tee'd the vac line on the front of the throttle body). From this point, I also plumbed my boost gauge. I hope this helps.

Too much work. Clearance is tight, but not an issue. You'll see.

I don't recall off the top of my head. After I get the battery back in the car I'll find out and let you know.

OK, so she got here, and we talked it over. I'm gonna have to play the MikeW card here... and kinda dissapear for awhile. I really really really need to get the RX done. Hopefully a full day's work saturday and sunday and i'll be close. And, I don't want to break my car. I'm not worried about the car... but, you know, I drive it like I stole the damn thing and can't afford to have 2 non-running cars.

Argh. I really want to go. But also really want to work on the RX... and get it running again. That way I can have no qualms about going out and wheeling. Not sure if the woman is coming over this weekend... I should know by about 7pm tonight... she'll either show up, or she wont. I'll talk it over with her when she gets here, maybe she'll be able to get me to decide.

Looking good man. How did you lower your car? Need to get my RX a touch lower... not sure how to do it yet. Its 5-lugged also.

The td04 will do just fine. I think it depends on how much boost you run. IE... if you run 8psi it will hit peak boost faster. With an electronic boost controller (like the apexi AVC-r) you can control boost an insane amount. Thus modulating the wastegate to get higher boost and lower rpm. I accept the fact that with a bigger more flowing turbo you will spool slower. First we'll get the turbo in, and the car running. Then, we'll see about lowering the spool time. I'm not expecting it to be too bad. For the crossover pipe... its important to keep good velocity. We can open it up all we want, but if its too open, by the time it hits the turbo it won't have any oomph. Thats why i'm staying with the stock *restrictive* header. Keeps the velocities up, and hopefully help that pig of a turbo (td04) spool quicker.

Me too!

No, those aren't my enkei's... Sold those to someone else. Mine were cooler Nice looking wagon Scooby. I remember when mine shined up that nice... perhaps again it will someday.

looking good... Not everyone has forgotten

Ok ok... wacky idea. Syphon is picking up a new car this weekend. He has a 1985 GL wagon that will be up for sale. Wouldn't you rather buy from a goon? I can vouch for all the work done on it, since I was either doing it or near by when it was being done. Nice car.

Well dennis... that is an interesting thought. Could it be that they switched turbo's over the years?? I really don't have an answer.

Sorry dennis... the uppipe flange is different. 2 of the 3 studs are almost spot on. If you ovalized the holes on the turbo you could get it to drop on them. However, the 3rd stud is too close to the other 2. It needs to be back about 1/2" - 3/4". Remedy this by picking up a WRX uppipe (~$30) and cutting the flange off. Then weld it to the top of the existing flange. This will guarantee the turbo sits level and the downpipe geometry isn't messed with. This additional height will aid in clearing stuff engine wise with the plumbing, it should also help to snug the exhaust up a bit. It might still be necasary to rotate the intake housing on the turbo to get the plumbing to clear everything. Some where on that big internet you can buy just the flange... But i'm not sure how much its going to run. I'm not sold on copper's yet. I believe that a properly put together engine should be able to hold 15psi or more. WRX guys run up in the 20's on stock engines.

Perhaps if your PM box wasn't full I would have replied in a timely manner. Anyways... Andy had car trouble that weekend... so I ended up getting no parts.

uhhh guys... its only $20 shipped to your door. Not as cheap as a normal one... but it has a freakin magnet in it! Also, I wouldn't trust hand making one of these... i'd just love to have that magnet come off and find a way somewhere it shouldn't be.

Hot. That is seriously badass.

I went through my local parts house, Bow Wow autoparts. Got the cams for $140. I ordered on Monday, they were ready to pick up Tuesday. I'm fairly close to them though. EA82T - .386 lift/260 duration *I believe* I'll double check tomorrow. Haven't gotten the engine together and running yet... so we'll see.

nice andy... its going to be nice to have a Brat daily driver, and a turbo wagon project car... Envy++

I don't see why the FCD wouldn't work. Its just a voltage clamp. The fuel cut is activated by the MAF signal being over a certain set voltage. If we can clamp the signal right before that voltage, we should never hit fuel cut. The FCD is adjustable. So you just start with a really high voltage... and keep turning it lower and lower till the fuel cut goes away.

Good thought Steve... I'll have a look. From memory it seems to be one piece though... Legacy MAF could work i spose... I'm modifing the signal anyways right? Makes sense... Marck... I believe they offer 2 grinds for the EA82T. a 386/260 and a 430/260... Mine are the milder ones, so the 386/260 I think. Same ones WJM has. The 430/260's require modification to something (i imagine because the lift is larger...) I have decided against the CU HG's at this time. There is no solid evidence that they are any better than stock for our engines. The only reason I would see using CU HG would be to go thicker to get a lower CR. But our CR is already in the basement at 7.7?:1. I will however looking into using copper gasket sealant with the stock gaskets.

I currently run a WRX intercooler in the RX. It sits farther back away from the engine though. I'm going to try to hook it directly to the throttle body and the samco hose, however I have a feeling the throttle cable/bracket might be in the way. If that is the case.. I will use a straight runner to set the intercooler back from the TB a bit (probally 2-3") and will cut the samco hose just after the 90 turn for the turbo to extend the y-pipe. Yes, the stock wrx uppipe flange was cutoff, and welded directly ontop of the stock flange. This helped to simplify the process. I was worried about keeping the turbo level, and throwing off the downpipe geometry. I will be running stock injectors. However I am making fuel rails for the engine. They will have a barb for the top feed hoses on the stock injectors. I've seen some other injectors of this same style. The whole reason to make the fuel rails was spurred on by getting an adjustable rising rate fuel pressure regulator. So hopefully with increased pressure I'll be able get more fuel into the engine. My car has the hot wire MAF. For tuning I'm using an apexi SAFC to modify the MAF signal (as we have no MAP sensor). I will be putting in a HKS FCD to prevent the fuel cut inbetween the SAFC and the stock ECU.

I got the milder of the 2 cams Delta had... which did you get WJM? Would have gone with the others, but Delta said some modification was required... and this being my first engine buildup i was leary of trying to take on too much. As is, i have my work cutout for me.

how would it make it more reliable?

The intake housing would have to be rotated, not the exhaust housing. The wastegate mounts to the intake housing, and there isn't any other places to bolt it to.