Subarutex

For a long time I drove my RX around with no pitch stopper and very bad tranny mounts. Now, after putting the bigger turbo on, and doing a bunch of stuff to the engine, i finally got off my duff and made some changes. Put in some tranny mounts. Brand new, got them from Bow Wow, not genuine SOA. Had a pitch stopper made. I gave up looking for the right bracket, so I had my buddy make me a pitch stopper after i got the new tranny mounts in. So... why after these changes is it really hard to get it into 1st and 2nd? Before i was having a problem keeping the car in 4th gear, thats gone though. All of the other gears feel perfect. Any ideas? I'm thinking linkage... just hoping its not my tranny borking itself. How do I correct the linkage if that is indeed what is wrong?

For the last month, i've been prepping to show at Hot Import Nights in Seattle with my "team." It finally went down Sat. It was pretty cool. I was surprised at all the attention my wagon got. Yes, my wagon. Here's some pics: First, my wagon on Roll In (which happened friday, the day before) Next, the team banner: My wagon, all shined up and ready to go! Some Team Intrinsic Models next to my wagon: Monica, Team Intrinsic Models, Me, and the wagon! Tons more pics of the show, our team cars, etc can be found here: http://www.pbase.com/verdugo/hin_050104 http://www.pbase.com/pjdwrx/hin2004

Actually carfreak, there is. If you search around, you'll find a post on spring rates, strut length, etc... Its a very nice table of values. Only car it doesn't have on it is the XT6. So, just remember that the XT6 has a 20MM rear sway bar.

Too much fiber in your diet? haha Qman recently put a GL10 or RX sway bar on his brat. I imagine it would be a similar process for your wagon. I'd do a search on it.

The solution to your problem is to convert to a 5 lug suspension. Then you could put pretty much any aftermarket wheel that fits a newer subaru on. Going to Hot Import Nights? I am... I'm "showing" hehehehehe Its this Sat. the 1st of May. $22 to get in.

I would concur that his rearend feels much tighter... Oh so tight!

From the air filter to the turbo, it just needs to be sealed. Doesn't really need to hold a bunch of pressure. For my intake on my RX, coming from the WRX turbo i have a rubber 90 degree elbow (got it from www.overboost.com). Into that goes a short piece of ABS tubing, then a rubber straight connector to the MAF, then the adapter on the MAF with a 3" cone filter. We built a similar system for DanBob99's turbo wagon. This car is as stock as one could get, except for the cold air intake. RACTIVE cone filter, 3" - $25 Cone filter/MAF adapter - $1.50 One straight 2" rubber connector - $5 90 degree ABS 2" pipe - $3 1.5" to 2" rubber reducer - $5 All of these things can be found at a home depot, except the cone filter. Some of the above prices may be off... most likely they are too high. The MAF adapter is a grate/drain thing. Has a 3" pipe end on one side. The other side is a square, that looks like a snow flake grill. Cut the center out of the grill. Apply epoxy to the edges of the grill, to fill it in and make it a flat piece. After dry, affix to MAF using 4 short screws. They'll start just fine in the soft plastic of the MAF adapter. Put 2" straight rubber connector on the other end of the MAF. This also needs stretching, but it will go pretty easily. Put 90 bend in the other end of the straight connector. Affix air cleaner. Put entire assembly in. The other end of the 90 degree bend goes in the 2" end of the reducer. Clearance with the plenum is tight, but it willl fit just fine. All said and done, takes about an hour... trip to Home Depot included. If any WA people would like to do this, bring a 3" cone filter, and some pocket change over and we'll make you one up.

Take this into account. Our turbo's are also water cooled. Water is a much better heat dissapater (sp?) than oil. So allowing the car to idle a bit before shut down allows the coolant to cycle and pull the heat out of the turbo bearings. It also keeps the oil circulating through the hot bearings, not allowing it to sit and burn. If too much burnt oil is present in the bearings, they begin to wear quicker. Eventually this leads to making the turbo ineffective. Most people call this process "coking". So, i feel its not about the hot oil, but about the hot bearings. My $.02 I run 30 seconds standard on my RX, occasionally she gets more if I deem it neccasary. Sometimes even less.

Found this http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread/t-232012.html Might help... says that the TD05 is a good upgrade. Still looking for compressor maps...

Brian, I believe that the TD05 is a turbo that came on certain early STi models. It most likely has different flow charactistics than the VF11... whether its a quick spooling turbo, or a high end monster I don't know. AWIC - Air Water Intercooler... right? Thats so rad.

I'd like to know the size difference... and if the 4 holes match up.. Anyone else running a turned TB? I turned mine 90 degrees to clear the turbo to IC connector coming off the WRX turbo.

XT6 seems very similar to the Spider TB... Is there a big difference in size? Seems that it would be way more work than what you'd gain to chop up an XT6 manifold and put it on a EA82T. Especially when you can just get a Spider intake.

The guy I picked it up from is a Subaru guy thats really into rallying. Has a legacy 2.2 NA that he used to rally. The stickers were all him!

Hahahahaha I was in a hurry! Give me a break. Oh, girls, he's single

Free turbo XT! Pretty good deal :-D http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15359

Well, Monday night Danbob99 and I picked up the newest member to my family. We were expecting it to be a pile, strip it, then junk it. However, turns out to be a pretty good find. 1986 XT Turbo Auto w/push button 4wd. How much? FREE How many miles? 116,000 and change Whats wrong with it? Shot air suspension (easily fixed) Slight dent on the left fender. And of course the usual electrical quirks, nothing major. Exterior is in very nice condition. The interior... wonderful! I love the checker seats. But, I don't need another car. I already have 2 project cars, the RX and my lifted wagon. So, what should I do? I know! I'll give it to my brother. He turns 16 in July. Here are some pics: http://community.webshots.com/album/136141571EQzpBD

I have an older one too. I have the wiring instructions for it if you need. I really didn't have a problem with it on install. Just take your time! When you get a chance we need to get together. Oh... still looking for exhaust? PM me:brow:

Here ya go man. This was originally from Skip, got it many moons ago. http://www.subarutex.com/Forum%20Pics/ECU.jpg Have fun. And yes, the SAFC works good on our cars. Let me know how the AVCR goes. I'm looking at picking one up too. But $400 (used, $600 is retail i think) is a bit of change to throw down. How much did you get yours for?

What pinout information do you need?

Hey... I just got a call from Andy (Baccaruda). He's without internet access for awhile, and do to some unforseen circumstances he's going to have to cancel this trip to Eugene. Thanks, Tex

I'm interested in a set of bushing for a newer generation vehicle. If you can diagram and arrow what needs to be measured I could probally do it. I'm also interested in some poly sway bar bushings...

I'm using the stock EA82 crossover pipe... there wasn't an O2 sensor on it.

I too put a WRX downpipe on my EA82T... fits better on the WRX turbo than the stock downpipe The ECU is calibrated in such a way that I believe moving the O2 sensor too far would cause drivability problems. I chose to have a bung welded on the downpipe in a similar location as stock, and then I plugged the factory bung. You can get plugs... I got one at the same exhaust shop I had weld on the bung. Cost me $20 cash for everything. I've also seen O2 bung plugs at a local performance shop for like $17, nicely wrapped in an K&N package. I wish I had 2 new bungs welded on close to the stock position. That way I could easily hook up a wideband O2, and not have to mess with taking the stock one out.

Mostly FALSE. One big turbo will usually take longer to spool than 2 small turbo's. Twin turbo'd cars usually go to single turbo when they want better top end breathing. In the world of turbo's its almost always comprimising accelerationg vs. top end speed.

Due to a lack of funds I won't be able to make it this weekend... But perhaps sometime later in the month. I'll keep everyone posted. It costs $35 to race...$10 is a once a year number fee, the $25 is the daily rate.