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My guess is that this is a gen I Legacy (90-94), as no type or year of vehicle is mentioned. It does help with diagnosing problems. If so these have a problem where the plastic casing on the knock sensor body splits due to heat. If this is the case, it is possible water (laden with salt possibly) conducts current to ground and thus trips the CEL. The KS is easy to remove (drivers side of the throttle body and down on the block, 12mm socket on an 8" extention) You could remove it and see if this is the case. Then seal the crack with silicone. Hope this helps.

Sir Steelhead, Welcome to the USMB. The wires you are looking for have GREEN colored connectors. Each connector has a single wire, one male, one female. You will find them in front of the driver's side hood hinge. (SPFI fuel injection only) The idle switch is inside the throttle position sensor and which is connected to the throttle shaft. NOTE: if this has not been adjusted and the car is idling well, it will be automaticly closed at idle and is not to be of a concern. Remember to disconnect the green connectors when through. Hope this helps.

Thanks for remembering guys, and the link Andy. Here is a shot of the current set up Feel free to email me if you have any questions http://www.westol.com/neper/willyengwdescsmall.jpg

Has to be my EX XT well done Sir Loin glad to see it went to good hands Dennis put those wheels on didn't he? What have you done under the bonnet?

Mary, I sent you an email including the photo documented article I wrote on the fix. Please reply if it meets your needs comprehensively and is what you were looking for....

Welcome guest, hope you are still reading, please register if you have not done so. You can gain access to the marketplace and possibly find the car you are looking for. Laurel should answer this, she is the Queen. I have a GT wagon as does Craig Both are titled 94 (my prod. date is 10/93 making it a 94) These somewhat rare wagons have the raised "touring" roof but no turbo, thus they are NOT known as touring wagons (reserved for the turbo models) Aside from the aforementioned options, they have 1) rear antisway bar, 2) body side, front, and rear lower moldings that distinguish it from a normal Legacy wagon. 3) ABS They have the 2.2L non interference engine (one of Subarus best early engines) with MPFI. They are heavy but can keep up with traffic. Mine gets a real world 25 MPG on bottom feeder petrol. Has 186 kmi. I paid 447.00 USD Hope this helps. My example is shown at the below link http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1454

Thanks for the reply. Your answer is plausible. Your number beginging with "B" and mine with "E" may have some bearing. There appears to be no butchery in the area aside from me and my utility knife. The carpet is undistrubed and appears factory. Your comp appears taller than mine, the carpet on mine fits snug - if a newer model had been swapped in by some PO I would think the carpet would show this. A Select Monitor may read the error codes - good idea. Thanks again for all the help on this bit of a mystery. My first venture into the nu gen stuff and I think I may go back home where I belong.

I have turned around dozen EA82T and XT6 flywheels, generaly take 5 to 6 lbs of mat. off. No explosions reported to date - have one in my daily driver. The EA82T weighs approx 23 lb the XT6 approx 20 lb before turning Here is a picture of the results the EA82T is on the right and the XT6 is the one that is cut. Loss of low end torque is minimal, read no starting from a stop issues and the engine's angular acceleration is higher, read revs faster. http://www.westol.com/neper/flywhtr.JPG I use my 13" Clausing Colchester gear headed engine lathe

If you care to test your coil pack here is a reprint from Leg. 777's online manual (note: I believe they have the words "primary" and "secondary" reversed.) and It says "if the resistance is extremely low...." 0.63 ohms is pretty low, make sure you zero your DMM http://www.westol.com/neper/coiltest.JPG

you have it moving so you could grind the point off of a nail the approx dia. use it for a punch. or use a pair of diagonal cutters grab as if to cut the pin as close as possible to the DOJ housing then push the handles toward the housing thus levering the pin out of the hole.

Craig, most exellent picture - thanks tons Have a look at this http://www.westol.com/neper/abscomp.JPG Guess that semi answers my conudrum. So what is mine a non USDM model? and more importantly How do I get the error code?

I noticed you said pins in your post There are three pins in the hole- 1) cotter pin 2) inner split pin 3) outer split pin The outer split pin is forced open buy the inner Sometimes it's very hard to see. BTW, a bolt that a 12mm socket sized nut fits on should pass through the hole if all the pins are removed. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the reply Craig. The brain is indeed under the flap BUT Maybe our cars are different than the 92 FSM indicates. My dash "ABS" light is on constantly. I did a search and read many replies to ABS problems. No one has said they have actualy seen this mystery LED on the brain that flashes the error code. The FSM says LED off means a line voltage problem, so I removed and tested both relays located on the ABS pump, I also tested the fuse in the under bonnet fuse box - the fuse does have power and is good. I followed the directions in the FSM about driving the vehicle and looked under the flap, used a dental mirror to look at the top bottom and front - no LED Took a utility knife cut the carpet from the heater duct to the flap. Still No LED flash - no LED found So I hacked the carpet to the outer frame rail Nope no LED. I know what the LED on the F.I. computer looks like, there is no such indicator on my ABS comp. Has any one personally seen this mystery LED ? If you have please tell me what side on the comp it is on. I'm beginning to think the LED may have been deleted on the 94 models. Possibly there is a way to make the dash light flash the code? I have checked all four wheel speed sensors and there pulser rings. They appear clean with no wiring problems. I may be pulling the pass side chair and back probe the wiring for problems.

your Subaru has an open front diff, no need jacking the other wheel off the ground, simply put the tranny in nuetral. The spring pin and the hole in the tranny stub axle are slight off set I believe, I always mark both when removing the axle to keep the orientation. Paint stick works well. You may also find one opening to be beveled, drive the out from the other side. A pin punch 9/32" IIRC is the proper tool and will bottom out when the pin is out far enough for alxe removal. Hope this helps

My 94 GT wagon has it's ABS light on. I have read where the brain will be flashing a code and that the unit is under the pass. seat. I have looked under the seat and see a small flap on the outer rail, is this where the brain resides? It does not look like an ECU for the ABS. Do wagons put it elsewhere? Do I have to remove the chair to see this unit? Thanks for any asistance in this matter.

JoAnne and Subynut are correct, and make a very good point but in rural sections having the sides of the road illuminated is a white tail "watch out" in un-fogged conditions, if ya'll know what I mean? Plus, I was just answering the question. Mine are all driving lights and have the close pattern reflectors and lens. They therefore fit the description of high beam aux. lights. Subfly, yes I rewired the white corner lamps as turn signals, leaving the yellow corners as my running lamps. They are separate lamps. It is an easy modification with the added bonus of having your front turnsignals visable from the side. Hope this makes it all clear as pea soup

Ah sorry guys this info is not entirely correct as far as Subarus are concerned. The use of a relay is correct BUT Our headlights use a ground control system The high beam wire at the head lamp goes to ground when that element is selected. When this wire is connected to one side of the relay coil, the other side of the relay coil must be supplied positive battery voltage. This voltage should be fused and will be connected to the relay contact arm. The contact point the arm swings to is wired to the aux lamp. The other side of the aux lamp is grounded If you care to give the type of Subaru you are wanting to do this to we may be able to give you wire colors and I am one of the ones who has this set up. I can suppy a wiring diagram if you email me. All four aux lamps light when the high beams are selected. http://www.westol.com/neper/withpugs4.JPG

Hey Guys, thanks for all the great replies. Leg 777 your site is killer. It turns out to be a GT touring wagon, has the raised section of the roof like the GL TW's. Runs real good needs a few items (center console, steering col. surround, ect) will be contacting some of you for the nessasary bits. Once again, thanks for all the info - being a neophyte -I/we (Dark Side and I) appreciate it. BTW I updated the picture in my first post

Has anyone tried putting a small turbo (from an EA82T) on a 2.2L 16V EJ engine? I now have a 94 EJ22. I know it's 9.5:1 comp ratio is not he best for blowing it (except up) but I only want about 5 PSI I will use 4 aux injectors triggered by boost pressure 2@ 1 PSI, 2 more at 3 psi plus H20 injection and a TMIC - I have all the parts just want to know if the open deck head gaskets will survive a modest blow job. Thanks for any thoughts.

That's right folks -I just aquired a 94 Legacy GT wagon. "Dark side" as it's dark blue metalic. Don't know bout all this, first venture into the land of the "new and improved" sure wish it was a turbo but tis good for getting my feet wet so to speak. Has some issues and some crash rash but the price was right and the potential is there so -- I took the plunge. Basic questions 1) can I get a FSM or are they hens teeth, give your first born stuff? 2) needs the head lamp plastic de fogged, will plexiglass polish work? 3) Has 185/70 14" tires/wheels, just so happen to have a set of 225/50 16" tires/wheelsfrom my Impreza sitting here wonder if they'll fit? 4) ABS light is on - how do I pull the error codes from the ABS brain? 5) see "Has anyone been foolish enough to..." post Thanks for reading this and see ya in the trenches.

same as 24, reset the ECU memory as the instructions show, removing the battery cable will NOT do it hope this helps, your welcome.

GB, the 25 could be a ghost code if it has stalled 34, 35 are the control soleniods, you can test them with an ohmeter, ~ 35 ohms Follow the rubber line from the devises and they will lead you to the solenoids. Note: they are very prone to failure. Some break the wires right at the coil. Boneyard or marketplace - the stealership will have at yer first born Hope this helps

Ah Doc, could you be refering to a cam angle senor. As far as I have been told all hotwire MAF'd engines have one. MPFI /turbo and SPFI Goatboy, good call on erase and retest, some of those codes can be falsely set when the engine stalls unexpectantly

Thanks for the warning Tony, got the high lift cams back from Delta today, shims came in the mail Sat. BTW I'll make sure to instal a rear view mirror so I can see yins -arf arf

Sorry you took offense John, but it is considered common courtesy to give the year and car in question as there are some differences in the different series. This minor info could also help someone else with a similar problem on their car, if it is the same or similar car. Good luck, hope it is just froozen gears or motors.