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Please use the chart I provided It is a varriable resistance and not an on/off switch

Your welcome Jimmy I merged the posts to get your description across. My quess is it is because of the mis matched tires and the center section of the tranny is now not happy. Diff fluid type you used should not cause this problem.

That may be it. Pictures here should be about 700 pixels wide. Reduce them and they will fix, Please see this link, I hope it helps http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=688783#post688783 You can test it without removing it You will loose some coolant, make sure you top it off.

Seeing more threads on this I thought I'd show where it is. Shown below as #9 (number 8 is the dash gauge sensor) Also included is a resistance vs temp chart Hope this helps

start by finding the FI CTS (Fuel Injection Coolant Thermosensor) It is located on the upper rad hose connection on the engine. NOTE: there are two coolant sensors located there The one you want has wires running into the sensor. The wrong one has a just spade connecter. You can take the FI CTS connector (barrel shapped) apart and clean the contacts but the sensor is probably bad. IF you have a mulitmeter you can test it.

navel jelly for Al

Jimmy, the biggest help would be for you to tell us what the car is what type of tranny how many miles any recent work Your description sounds like the center, rear, or front diff is locking up. Are your tires matched? Hows the fluid level in the front diff? BTW Your link to a convoluted site full of other advertisements is not what we need. Sorry, I could not find your sound bite.

Welcome to the USMB, sir. The reverse switch is not located on the shifter mechanism but is a switch screwed into the rear extension housing of the transaxle. It probably wants replacing, it is item #6 in this FSM reprint. Hope this helps

thanks for the link wish it were closer wonder how hard it is to stuff an EJ22 under that bonnett. Guess doing it to an XT6 makes more sense.

Cougar makes a very valid point about the FPR but if the ECU is confused and does not know the engine is cold it will not tell the injector to open as if it were cold. . Since the CTS is a very easy to test sensor and the FPR requires a fuel pressure gauge to check..well Good luck, nice to see someone apply the advise given and not give up - congrats to you.

The FI CTS is not mounted in the radiator that is the switch for the electric fan Look below the upper rad hose connection on the engine. Close to the dash gauge sensor but has wires directly connected to the sensor, not a spade like the dash gauge sensor. Do you have a multimeter to check the sensor? (I'll see if I can find a picture of the location in the service manual)

that is a serious list (125) of Subarus you linked to. Dog gone you folks are the Subaru capital.

Hi Tim Sure sounds classic FI Coolant sensor problem. (or a tottal plugged up air filter, or a huge vacuum leak) Also sounds like you cleaned the coolant sensor for the dash gauge not the one for the fuel injection sysytem. Did you have to take apart a barrel shaped connector? This is the sensor you want. The sensor that the wire connects directly to is the dash gauge sensor. You can test the FI CTS with a multimeter.

congarts Capin' "sticktoittiveness" beyond reproach!! Two lines bother me a bit 1) He tried to get it up to temp, and it took him 5 times longer than any other car he'd ever worked on. 2) I only get luke warm air at the best of times even with a new thermostat These both indicate the thermostat is incorrect. I suggest you try a Subaru OEM at 193 degrees. This should solve both issues. Many more miles of smiles in your Su Bar U

Here is a one simple test for the Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS). Do the electric radiator fans come on as soon as you start the car? If the sensor is bad and the ECU triggers this fail safe we are starting to get somewhere. Hope this helps. The other boyz are going to poo poo this for one reason or another but it is one way to know the CTS is bad.

"how much should i offer? If theres anyone that might be interested in other parts off the XT I found" might help if you answer the questions I asked "What is everything i need to put it on my MPFI EA82t" This bit is a bit corn-fusing

"Correct me if im wrong all XT Turbo's have the spider intake" Stand corrected, they had the normal manifold until 87.5 AFAIHS** **As Far As I Have Seen 300 Gws tain't bad if it has a body, what tranny? 4wd?

is the exhaust furnace connected and the vaccum control flap in the snorkle functional?

Sir Nixon, the fans coming on like you describe is an indication the fuel injection coolant thermossensor is bad or has an output out of range. I do not know if it will throw a check light if it is out of range but still shows continuity. The contacts to the harness may need cleaning but best bet is to replace. They are only around 40 USD. Location can be hard to see but removal of the line to the PCV valve makes it easy to replace. This is a fail safe built into the ECU. Hope this helps.

as Frank ask if it fit an EA81 sans T I was hoping for a mono-stack radical ride. or did I give something away?? ;^)

Laptop batteries are not that big see post #34

old trick John associated with phosphor bronze bushings the Subaru models I have seen are ball bearing affairs and I doubt that would work.

OB99W I thank you again for your time and it is appreciated on this end. I am sorry for the responce delay, pretty half and I were doing the Xmas thing. :^) I don't know why WJM went on some tangent in ref to the other error codes as I didn't mention, read, or see them on my scan tool. I printed the page WI-138 and thanks it gives me the wire colors. I need to research some more to find where connectors E3 an E49 are, I can measure the resistance of the heater at those connectors according to the page you listed. Is the connector shown maybe the through the bulkhead connector? Thanks again for the pages I will continue to endeavor to persevere being cautiously optimistic as I do. I think we both know I am not a throw parts at it kind of guy thus the posting , this follow up and many thanks... but I do think it is the 02 sensor as stated. thanks WJM for the part number

check and double check, will do I didn't see #10? "Since you're pulling the connector, why not just start with #10," I was hoping to find the a way to check the heater resistance from topside. Getting under the car at this time of year is somewhat problematic. Shame on me... I have a grease pit in my shed but the door is currently blocked by my TT. :^(

I feel compelled to add that there are two coolant sensors in this location. One (for the temp gauge on dash) the harness connects directly to the sensor. Unplug it when the engine is warm.. if the dash gauge falls to cold, this is the wrong sensor ...see below. The other (the FI CTS the one you need to check) has a pigtail and barrel shaped connector. Armed with the above info you should follow Xbalancex7 for all suggs he gives.