bgd73

I did melt the outer cover, and that is where I thought it stopped. (here is photo) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=13165&limit=recent The temp sensor may be it, but it is way too intermittent , fast like, and only from a take off when cold/very cold, once well past tps trigger,into a roll, I can really get after the throttle with clean reply at any temp of engine. I will attack the tps wiring tomorrow real closely.

I have been second thoughts all day about that.Examining every inch isn't the whole cluster, as that is what I did. I can definately guess a hidden problem near tps. Maybe I can get a throttle man and wiggle wires while it is cold. I still have burps and hesitation until engine is really warm, when a bad wire could flow better. I am almost glad you found a unique problem, I will be taking it apart again. Bent a bit differently now has helped, but there is something not correct. I really smoked those wires for several seconds after a new alternator unexplainable, yet engine kept running- over 18 months ago. Bizarre. No short circuits obvious where I ran my fingers over the cluster, and it does cure itself when warm. :-\

just transfer that to this: Hmmmm... They both got 3 main boxers, and a crazy idea! Except the sube would get there faster:grin:

That is close to the simple way I would explain it. The pc power is quite small in thought.. when volts are dropped for pc internals, amps go up, hence all the things we can plug in on low volts. The source that gives the reduced volts/ higher amps is ridiculous(always has been). A UPS is a must have, just for the sense of "larger" power, same volts outputted. I have taken surges, and kept running in lightning storms. Only the ups with the battery works for me, there is other stuff, but not nearly as good. The car I would assume is the same when it comes to the battery. Make it a good battery and functoning alternator is about all one can do. I wonder what 12v straight from battery to ecu would do....I know the ecu has regulators, and the battery is very stable. I wonder if alternator refeeding the battery on its regulators would kill the battery. There are newer radios that demand hook up straight to battery, I have assumed it uses it for more than the memory and clock, for stable source, like a circuit board on low volts would demand. Probably an overthought. The loyale is going on 14 and still working the ecu. The problems created were from heat, wiring going bad . Plug wires go bad and in my car, it seems any wire can go bad. No surprise to me to get strange stuff happening as a result of wires not even broken or other oprimitive out loud common sense event even a caveman could comprehend. See it, smell it, believe it. <- Doesn't even need a volt meter!

That is a good point. Thought of pressing the brakes for an instant 500 degrees for a few seconds?

my snows are 185/80/13 retreads (even taller) with ice studs making it even taller on a 2wd sedan with part of the tires in the rear wheel wells at all times..and no rub. They will take a 24.5+ inch diameter and over 6 inch wide (a nice 15 inch in other words) easily . I have wonderd since the beginning why they didn't get 15 inch or at least 14. They even look normal with them.

Just because I post everyday doesn't mean I am reading this thread. Paint saves the day, maybe a year, maybe more. (I don't know the paint at all, seems good so far). The rims drilled properly for an incentive to the company there would be a mass buy, can count me in. As long as offset was correct. I would use even another steel if it were 15 inch and correct. My droopy 2wd in the back end (which I will never change) ought to have wheels that fit for the fender wells. Can't someone just do it for the sake of the very last classic design flat-four is contained in a 4x140 Subaru! I have found ea82's parked just for the bouncing unstoppable wheel woes...al other parts to balance nicely can be purchased easily but the wheels.

I posted the simple fix on my website. The 2wd woes struck again. I said it was a lunatic, and I mean it. http://93loyale.com/wirin.html Don't blame your gadgets just yet for a strange running spfi.. really look the wires over. I may change it out entirely after figuring the guages of it. I did notice at the end near battery, there is a chance for physical interaction with chemistry.. the battery is quite close to it. I am assuming that is origin of problem.

Can you explain the battery acid smelling stuff and light blue fog that dissipated? It wasn't even a short circuit. A quick stinkin puff, and back "on the road again".It was immediately on the very first run , on brand new alternator, replacing one that had only 1 functioning brush. I can assume the car was eating the battery to maintain demand.I associated it with egr pig and bad alternator.I have ignored it successfully. I even had the ice blue crud you may see on battery posts show up on wheel studs.Wires that get warm don't like it- it pushes it away to a place that takes it.I have had other cars do this too upon a decade+ of wrong volts from alternator. Even an old house can burn mysteriously from this without preventative.It could be the outside world as a factor- even trees have it. I'm on my 6th home built pc, please don't doubt my integrity about ups's. The 1950's two wire housing seems to prevail here- it stinks for a new pc, especially if house has never had one. I have even had the hard drive leds you see blink transferring to house light bulbs, on two wire systems, before I was explained what to do. UPS is best bet, if you can't rewire the house.The "third wire" or neutral is very important. Simply a ground for things unplanned. Cars hardly have one. I have thought of a few spots for larger capacitors then ecu,to place in the car, but it would probably interfere with pulses of time. Keeping it all airtight with the electrcal tape seems good enough given the years accrued...so I will leave it all alone. There was a similar learning experience for me when I ran cables at a local university. They were still using stuff from the 1960's. Gigantic cables that fiber really took over with minimal space. The bad cables all smelled like batteries or other bizarre odors when cut, or worked with, and kept working anyway. A car is even more susceptible to these kinds of infections without enough air. The loyale ea82's are perfect candidates being as restricted as they are with a simple thing called air. I conquered mine, have you?

I would really like some alloys. I found a set today with flat tires (not good for wheels with weight of sitting on the car.) There is something quite stubborn about steel, for as long as they last, when they get injured it is quite difficult. Even my dads tractor trailers lately have all aloy, tractor and trailer. A million mile capable machine with alloys must have decent reasoning. I would even stick to the 13's to get rid of the steels.

Upon a new alternator over a year and a half ago in my 93 2wd.. there was an event I shrugged off. Smoke came from the cluster of wires feeding top of engine and all the gadgets after the very first start up with new alternator. Today, looking over things like a maytag repair man on my ea82 that won't die, I found a melted spot right where I remember the smoke coming from 18 months ago. It runs great, I have even been on long trips. I took the harness out of the Subaru and took off the outer protective cover. the damage was done to the TPS plug-in wire, and never went all the way through. I went over every inch of the cables individually and sure enough, it is as good as the engine running.I retaped the outer covering with electrical tape. So, assuming I encountered yet another "bizarre invisible" unexplainable, I went ahead and put the harness back in away from the intake manifold (above it -routed between the fuel line, and return fuel line, behind a/c compressor, more towards the top now)... and guess what? It takes off even faster. Anyone explain? Is there such a thing as bleeding wires without obvious errors because of heat and other unknowns? My Loyale is reminding me much of an old PC I had that wasn't run on a UPS (ups keeps the system clean and stable). Has anyone put monster capacitors anywhere in reference to what I am trying to explain? I have had great luck with resistors in places that have failed, including ECU.

This may be worth adding to wheels page. It is like the rw listed but silver and 15 inch. some side views show it as quite wide for the little sube as well. I am guessing 7-8 inch. I like the offset. I just emailed the superlites people in australia, curious about thier 15 inch. I have been denied even a quote by one foriegn place already. If they don't know how to submit thier business to keep from going WWW, I wish they wouldn't. It is teasing the hell out of me.

Go with what you want, then work with it. Seems as though, learning from this forum, the heads blow a leak at some C ratio,and with wrong stuff to go with it. I learned that from v8s. I have seen 11:1 dynamically stay good on pump fuel. I always thought it was a hoax by manufacturers to keep power down, by claiming "10:1 is as far as it can go". Just look at the 11:1 mercedes v8 for example.. doesn't need any special fuel, like I have encountered myself, with high compression. The worry with ea81/82 is heads physically handling demand.

I am weekly checking for "4x140" wheels in search engines. I found this cardomain members in hungary. The owner claimed they bolt right up. The offset lopks good too. anyone know manufacture? I guessed it to be the company that makes saab wheels, and doesn't advertise the 4x140 pattern, but I am not sure. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/623470

on the firewall, if not dirty. From front of car it is to the left stamped on the back of engine bay, passenger side. through drivers side windshield should match the numbers on firewall

I really wanted "3 mains" or variant, but it seems "3 mains" is a popular plate in maine for nostalgic sailboat people- used elsewhere other than crankshafts There wasn't one combo. "got90hp" seems a good one, but there is other little engines doing the same. the real kick is the torque makin 90hp huge (as most of us with a running ea82 know). So.... I may go with my forum nick, for other cars. I hope to be parking my old sube while it is good, so it can be started again the same way. won't need plates anyway. "1781 cc" is an actual plate the state dished out to someone, not as a vanity. I am curious to know what the lucky car was. I wonder if a vote is capable here for the best old soob vanity plate This one is ambiguos:

here is even more. Anyone have ideas? Some are real bad, as it indicates all boxers. Some get what I am after...

I used all of my 2 brain cells dedicated to imagination- after 25 or so ideas, I think I like this one: This plate has no existence. maine dmv's website allows for checking and gives a picture. I want to do this for the infamous, the exotic, the everlasting, going extinct without conservation: the EA82

I went on my own to fix it. If it fried once , it will do it again. This is my fix, you can risk it yourself if you really need it.It has been several weeks with it fixed , I leave it on one from the second the key gets turned on, etc. works like original http://93loyale.com/htrfan.html there are many combinations, if you cant use original resistance. the actual numbers for the resistors are in a post somewhere on the board. That would be my first attempt, if I did not splice what was left back together for original integrity (and then some).I would no doubt replace with a normal looking resistor setup given the oem numbers. finding an original, would be 12 years old, at thier newest. It is one of those pieces time can destroy, as much as use. time for some ingenuity.. I will post a fix given the numbers, to take out original wekaness entirely, as well as those coils getting tangled in things that would hurt them. (mine had hair in it)

Hey while rx's in discussion. Is 1990 an rx called the "loyale rs"? That would be the final rx (in the real world)? and it would have the shoulder belt hooked up...

Is the ej22 your first four cylinder? "power testimonials" to such an engine could be embarassing, very easily. Good luck on what you may believe to be bragging rights for the craziest boxer ever to be on the market this side of a "scotch-yoke" (and even that has a realistic purpose). 24mpg on 5 mains is a 300+hp v8 to me and anyone old enough to know better. In fact, I am almost embarrassed for you.

I saw the picture of tranny aprt in other thread. Could the final drive gears be swapped cleanly to a 2wd shaft from an 88 gl-10 with the 3.454 final 4wd? I am assuming that is the final gear in referenced on the manual.the ring and pinion, or front lsd, or other name for it. It looks like it can be taken out via a key? or set threaded pin?

The oem 2wd is a different animal. The rear wheels would bury in the wells before it never broke free. (I refuse to disclose my 18 year old "test the handling path" I have done with every car I have owned- its about a dozen since I was 15 in same locale. This 2wd loyale outdid a friends 944 porsche. I have concluded there is a heavy gyro missing, nicely, in my 2wd, no doubt 4x4 related. My goal is highway. The handling was quite a surprise. I too drove around a 4x4 with no driveshaft, it still wanted to go straight no matter what. That is how I learned that the ea82 4wd's have a powerful gyro, it was more stubborn than my grandma! This car surprised the hell out of me.It not only goes straight ..... Do you notice any "crab" or side stepping effect with the ej22 and 5 mains in the light loyale? especially snow and slippery terrain and needing to accell? My friend's wife had an accident- it nearly cost a life. Brand new forestor on an icy road , mysteriously, all at once, no control, side step on level road -- not a donut, back end sway, the whole car side stepped off into the willy wags.very bizarre. I don't think they self cancel like the 3 mains balance, further making it stubborn with a crank with as many mains as a v8.(I am really not a fan- 3 mains dead, so is my belief in the newer subes.) If I am going to have 5 mains: I want an old v8 with 600cfm, 10:1 and 300 hp casually. Take the craziness subaru went to right out of my realist thought process. I hope to build a 3 main like subaru should have- cheaply proving it to myself.

Has anyone said "You payed way too much for that car!" then drove it for 9 years leaving opinions baffled? I have never been emotional over a machine, until I gave this one away to junk last year. I was the second butt to ever sit in its seat.. all the way to 17 years old. If someone needs a carfax, I purchased for 30 days unlimited. I don't need it, maybe you do. I have seen the favor done here, why not if can as well. pm me.I hope I don't get flooded...

I mean 2wd in front wheel drive. The 3 door is written as heavier. the sedan has a very easy means to make it very strong, for more power. I am flying around on 30mm injection- the mpfi even just n/a would be awesome. The boxer four, even small can make a plane takeoff weighing 3000 lbs. Just opening it up in weight proportioned on the ground is quite an improvement. After v8's for several years, this 1781 is incredible. The cost is not much, but time to swap. There was a gl-10 turbo for 500 bucks local for months. without a rebuild, I could put it together for under 1000 dollars. I just want a pro's opinions... theres always the time to do this stuff. I have mentioned before.. I really want to dyno this little engine in the 2wd with accurate weight punched in the computer. I would swear it is at least 150hp with a torque maybe beyond that...seriously.