dave valiant

You must be talkin about the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally in August. That would be great I get my weeks paid vacation Aug 1. As far as being on the board still I dont see myself ever leaving. Iwasnt able to get on the past 2 days and was having serious withdrawl symptoms.Im a USMB addict.

Well its a real good place to start since you need a new CV joint. You understand you need a new CV and yet you are going 115. You are braver than I.You had yuor tires balanced how about the wheels. Just kidding. Get a reman shaft it is the quickest and easiest way to go in my opinion if it still vibrates Im sure one of the rally smart(not me) members on this great board will be able and willing to send you in the right direction.You are in Casper huh well if your ever in the area of Rapid City post me and maybe we could go hit some trails in the hills

Even if it was asbestos you shouldnt have any exposure problems.Most asbestos problems occur after continuos prolonged exposure.So dont put it under your pillow and dont sweat it

Love my Sube and all but rumble????? 4 cylinders just dont rumble.

Oh yeah if you are really worried about rear ending the tow car just chain an old tire to your front bumber and another to the rear of the tow vehicle. I saw just yesterday a chevy corsica towing another corsica that must not have had any brakes. Every time the tow vehicle slowed down the other would just run right into the rear bumper of the other. I had to follow them and watch this happen again and again it was hilarious. They were using the junk tire method. From the looks of it they both probably needed to get checked for wiplash. I know it sounds cruel enjoying anothers suffering but when towing a vehicle without brakes you should definitely not get to speed over 40 MPH. So Iguess I wasnt enjoying there suffering just there absolute stupidity.

Whenever Ive towed or been towed with a tow strap Ive always made sure that the other person involved and myself had set hand signals for braking ,accelerating,turning and so on. Also I think it works best for the vehicle being towed to do most of the braking. In doing so you keep the strap tight so there isnt any hard jerking when you start moving. Take it slow and try not to do it during rush hour traffic.

Sounds like youve gotten your money out of that cv. Thats the way I run mine when its making noise in a straight line time to call checker and get a reman. While youve got the shaft out might as well check the bearings.

That is amazing!!! I saw this Brat and had to tell everyone I work with about it. I was told by a few that there is no way to lift a Brat. I brought em to my home and showedem and shutem up. I think this Brat should get the cover when the calender is made.

Why not make it an 18 or 24 month calender. All of the pics up there are great so if you made a longer calender you could include all of them plus. When are we going to be able to order one of these bad boys and whats the cost.

I always use purolator filters on my Brat. I get them from Sears. I always ask for a back shop filter which is the same thing as the ones on the shelf the only difference is they arent painted with the brand name graphics and only have the part # on them and they usually cost about 2 bucks. Cheap is good

You are right murals suck!!!!!!!! But this is America so to each his own.But murals definitly suck. Period

Well I got my brakes fixed and after a liberal dose of WD-40 on the shifter linkage my Brat shifts like new. Looking under the Brat around the linkage everything looked tip top, plus I didnt see any sign of leakage from the autocrap trans. I know everyone will sleep better tonight knowing I can once again put my trans in park.Happy Thanksgiving to all in USMB land.

Hey 78 Turbo Brat sounds like youve had a worse weekend than I did. Friday night delivering pizza get a flat put the donut on and have to get my jeep to finish the night out . Saturday delivering pizza one of the mounting bolts for the passenger side break caliper falls out park the Brat at work have the old lady bring me the jeep. This morning go to try and figure out what happened Saturday night. Figure it out get a new bolt only to find the threads are stripped out on the bracket. As far as the shifter goes it just started doing this since it has gotten cold the past 3 days. Im gonna park it inside our heated shop at work tomorrow and see if it helps at all.

Sticky is really an understatement. The shifter in my 84 brat is very hard to move I cant get it back into park. I took the cover off of the shifter and everything looked to be connected. I had seen a thread talking about a trans modulator valve but I assume that if it were bad that the trans would bang into gear as apposed to being hard to move the shifter. Need a manual hate the auto. Any help would be appreciated.

thanks Skip Ill check that after work tomorrow.

I have got to remember to log in before posting a reply!!! Well any way thanks for all the great responses. I dont have a digital camera or a scanner so sorry no pics. Ill try to describe her best I can. Shes got faded maroon paint and rocker rust but she does have all the original badging and trim.I paid $1000.00 now Im sure some of you are having a nice chuckle over this but I had never seen a turbo brat let alone a brat that wasnt 85% body cancer so I just had to have her.Oh yeah the cat is going bye-bye next Saturday could do it sooner but I will have access to a very well lit shop with heated floors wich beats the heck out of cold gravel!!!My 4 year old daughter has started calling the brat Subie Squirrel so the name is catching on at home with my wife. Oh yeah thanks for the info on the rockers. Time to start saving my pennys.

This has been slowly getting worse so Im not really sure if theres any power loss but then again its hard to lose what you never had. I talked to a heavy equiptment mechanic and he said the first thing I should do is junk the cat and weld in a piece of pipe in its place and see if I notice any difference. I figure thats an easy enough job and according to many in USMB land losing the cat will free up some power so its two for the price of one. I looked over the exhaust under the hood and couldnt find any leaks so hopefully its the cat. Thanks to all for your advice.

If you are going to just flush the heater core couldnt you pull the heater hoses hookup a flush tee to the heater hose cap off the other side of the tee hook up a garden hose and flush. never tried this just a suggestion, but it sounds easier than pullin the core.

Many thanks to TheDirtyRue. Im gonna take a look at that tomorrow after work. Ill let you know what I find,probably just alot more questions LOL. Thanks

Ive had good experiences with the ATF flush. Ialways run a quart and drive for 30-40 minutes then change my oil. Helps keep everything clean in the engine. been doin that for a few years never had anything bad happen.

Ive got an 84 Brat Turbo 155000 miles original engine. Ive lost alot of boost according to the gauge.When I first got the Brat about a year ago under W.O.T. the boost gauge would sit right at the red. Now Im lucky if I get a quarter positive boost. Ive very recently replaced air and fuel filters always run 91 octane gas(is this necesary anyone know). This is my first turbo car and am a little ignorant about them . Ido put alot of miles on it every week between 450-550 could it just be getting tired. Any suggestions anyone had would really be appreciated. Anybody know of anyone making rocker patches for my Brat mine are slowly disinegrating.

Im workin on a 69 dart with a 383,fender well super comps,polished and ported closed chamber heads,purple shaft cam,holley 750 double pumper(what gas mileage)3200 stall converter in rebuilt 727 trans,8 3/4 with a 3.91 sure grip and the rear wheel wells cut to look like a 68 Hemi Dart. Itll be alot of fun at the 1/8 mile in Sturgis should be ready to go next spring. Sorry I know that this board is for Subes it wont happen again

Thanks for the heads up I was just really curiuos because I didnt know. I have had plenty of fun off road and in the snow in my Subes and wouldnt trade them for nothing in world for that purpose. Ive had many people tell me you'll never get through that in that little thing only to hear OH MY GOD i dont believe it when I did.I love my Sube. no offense was intended in my questions.

Wouldnt you be better off going with a minimum bore on your cylinder walls and retaining some rigidity. the thinner the wall is the more likely it will distort and allow blow by and that isnt good for making power

Every one here is talking about running what sounds to me to be an incredible amount of boost through these little engines. I was just wondering what kind of quarter mile times and elapsed times people are posting under these boost conditions. Or am I way off base in thinking that big horsepower is for drag racing only. I love my turbo brat its great for running fire trails, perfect pizza wagon especially that its now snowing but as far as Im concerned it cant get out of its own way let alone anyone elses. Im not trying to insult anyone out there I just havent had any experience with going fast on 4 cylinders. Whats possible how much will it cost. would a guy be better off for quarter mile purposes building a big block Dart or Nova. Once again Ive always loved the Subes Ive had for there off road ability in completely stock form,would have never thought of trying to make one go fast.