1 Lucky Texan

bad cables or other charging issue. (intermittent alternator, slipping belt, etc.) You are gonna need to measure voltage drops at battery, batt pos with chassis ground, batt and chassis ground to starter terminal, etc. while cranking as well as for bad grounds. internally corroded cables, etc.

yeah, from what I've read, could be rotted filler neck. knock sensor may be cracked. Still, could be worth clearing the codes to see which ones come back. I've had a bad battery set 'spurious' codes. But, on a '98 , those both easily could be legit.

I have tried to 'force' some missing - no go. Even lugging it in high gear up a hill - it's just as random as 'regular' driving. @ days agao I tried to let the tank get really low and 'thought' , maybe turning with a low tank would cause it cause it happened a coupla times. Then, on a straight section, I tried some hard 'slalom' maneuvering - nothing. it seems completely random. if I get to a point that I want to take it to a real mechanic, what should I ask, suggest is done? Would a borescope show any scoring from a cracked ring land? Then what, comp/leakdown, then check the valve lash clearances? I just now ordered a beck/arnley CPS. cheap enough from rockauto to try. ($26)

thanx, I think a compression/leakdown test might be the step to go to after I try ; refreshing more ground connections (they have all looked good - wonder where exactly the CPS is grounded?) wiggling cable harnesses while idling inspect cam sensors replace crank sensor double check for pending codes and read fuel trim data again It still happens at 1800 to 3K or so (maybe above and below but perhaps not noticed?), stone cold engine or warmed-up. after a turn, during accel OR deceleration (in gear, like engine braking - this seems weird???) still goes 'chk' and bucks/jerks a little. If I really put my foot in it, it still pulls strong. (but I admit to driving more like a granny since this started) Just filled the tank - this is probably the 5th tank of gas since the problem started/was noticed. There has been no rain or other odd weather.

nvrmd

I AM wondering about that. It wasn't a lot, and, evidently, may not have been a problem - though, for a day, it seemed to be working after I cleaned it. But, could an idler bearing be failing? Is it because the car gets so few miles a little corrosion is forming on some pulley surfaces? (the debris is black, not rust-colored), The theory at a thread at NASIOC is, since the sensor has a magnet and coil inside, any magnetic particles that build up o the sensor could confuse the timing. I wish I had a CEL. I may check again for pending codes, and try some longer 'pulls' like fairtax suggested. I tried a few but, it didn't seem to 'force' a miss. I may pull the cam sensors for inspection next(but they are at the rear of the engine right?) - then put a new crank sensor in if they seem OK. Is Delphi a good brand, Beck/Arnley? It's so random.

In Mother Russia, car takes YOU for spin!

meh - no stores closer than Waco to me. still, that's a big savings.

SWEET!

thanx!

very odd, but, while friday's trip to and from work seemed trouble free and I was about to claim the problem solved by cleaning the CA sensor, the issue was back today. If I were going to replace the CA sensor, what brand would you guys recommend? Or is there a preference? or a brand I should avoid?

the car should run (for a while) with the belt off. To me, it does seem like the alt., but, others here have a lot more experience with stuff like that. I suppose you've looked in the PS tank while idling? maybe sucking in air.

I can take pics and measurements if it seems like it's a possible fit. I just know nothing about what swaps so, you'd want to confirm fitment first. They've been in my attic for years and if I could get -say - $75 bucks or so, shipped to the lower 48, I'd be good with that.

is the wheel alternately easy-hard-easy-hard-easy as you turn it? There does seem to be a rash of bad steering U-joints ltely that cause that.

I have some stock 06 WRX wagon springs. Dunno if/how they might work on your Forry. less than 1900 miles on them.

look inside the PS fluid tank while idling. there should be no foam or bubbles. any idea where the fluid went?

your reply to this didn't come thru

this is preliminary but, after cleaning the CA sensor yesterday, I detected no missing driving to work this morning. I'll feel better by Tuesday/Wednesday next week but, there were metallic particles stuck to the sensor. if it proves out that the car is fixed, I will try to post some pics I took.

2006 WRX wagon

does this car have the bucket shims or is it screw and locknut like my old 69 Datsun roadster? I dunno, I barely could change spark plugs, getting valve covers off and on, well, that's gonna definitely be at the edge of my comfort zone. still, I will try the above to set a code, and I am gonna inspect the crank sensor for 'debris' as suggested on a different forum. easy stuff first - though I understand the risk is a burnt valve if this contimues and IS a valve train problem. I appreciate the support guys - thanx

I did save the plugs, though i didn't number them. I'll look again. about how much would you expect a dealer to charge to check the lash? I'm a little uncomfortable wrenching that deep i think. guess an upside if they don't find a problem would be getting the cover gaskets re-freshed.

what year? OBDII has the temp available so, some solution using the diagnostic port would work ; smart phone and Torque or similar app for instance, or standalone display device like ; http://www.amazon.com/ScanGauge-Automotive-Computer-Customizable-Real-Time/dp/B000AAMY86/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1361986606&sr=8-2&keywords=obdII+gauge http://www.amazon.com/PLX-Devices-Kiwi-Bluetooth-Wireless/dp/B004B0C1NE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1361986606&sr=8-3&keywords=obdII+gauge http://www.amazon.com/OBD-II-Display-Speedometer-Voltage-installation/dp/B007PX8476/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1361986606&sr=8-13&keywords=obdII+gauge HEADS-UP display! ; http://www.amazon.com/Head-Display-Speedometer-speed-water/dp/B004YHSO9E/ref=sr_1_14?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1361987093&sr=1-14&keywords=obdII+gauge Do you own a Garmin Nuvi? ; http://www.amazon.com/Garmin-ecoRoute-Vehicle-Diagnostics-Communicator/dp/B003CLYMSU/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1361987093&sr=1-11&keywords=obdII+gauge

I don't want to 'guess' with just 43.5 K miles. Would it fail a leak-down or compression test?

if you hadn't mentioned the wreck, I would have suggested you check the battery for a bad cell, clear the codes and see if any come back. But, those may all be legit. Still, I had a bad battery set wierd, spurious codes in out Outback. And, if the battery is original, it's getting really old.

That's one thing that's frustrating, no misfire code. No codes at all. I read one thread at NASIOC about debris on the end of the crank angle sensor(most of those cars also were higher mileage though). , plus, seems like an easy thing to too check so, I plan to pull it soon. Plus, I will be able re-seat its connector/inspect the cable. I'm not hopeful that will be the problem either, but easy enough to try.