1 Lucky Texan

did she buy gas recently? might be a not-tight-enough gas cap. on the drain issue, I have no idea if it makes sense but, what about disconnecting the alternator and starter wires?

I DD an 06 WRX Sportwagon that I bought new. the main issue I see, is a general fear of buying a used, inexpensive sports car that may have been reamed-out by a kid. So, see if someone can recommend a soob-experienced mechanic in your city and have a pre-purchase inspection done. You don't want to pay top dollar for a subaru with torque bind or turbo problems. ANY 10 year old car is gonna exhibit issues more closely related to its previous care, and its current condition - regardless of brand or model. Spend $125 or w'ever to get it checked out by a mechanic.

is their any type of 'air bag'-type stiffener that would work?

some folks have reported CD players trying to 'cycle' or eject continually. But I'd expect you would hear that, and, of course, pulling the stereo-related fuse should pinpoint that. good luck

the parking lights aren't on are they? check the 'virgin switch' on top of the steering column. (still have those in 06 I guess???) as said above, aftermarket stereo amplifiers/sub or lighting etc. I dunno if any 12V power ports are on with key off in an 06, but it may be worth examining the bottoms of them for trash, chewing gum wrappers w'ever. listen carefully for any clicking relays or humming sounds.

most likely heat shields on the exhaust, many people put hose clamps around them to quiet them down. you or someone will need to get under the car to inspect them.

GG is right on, I recall reading about those.

is this a buzzing noise, something you feel in the seat-of-your-pants or something felt in the steering wheel?

seems like loss of pressure from a fuel leak would lead to the longer than normal start as the pump must fully pressurize the rails.. Find and fix the fuel leak and I bet starting will be more normal. I also wonder if carbon buildup in the engine could be confusing the knock sensor with some occasional pinging. maybe try a SeaFoam treatment.

other hits; https://www.google.com/search?q=subaru+powered+rx7%3F&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a#hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=ei8&tbo=d&rls=org.mozilla:en-US%3Aofficial&sclient=psy-ab&q=subaru+powered+rx-7&oq=subaru+powered+rx-7&gs_l=serp.2..0i13i30.137848.138868.0.138879.2.2.0.0.0.0.208.208.2-1.1.0.les%3B..0.0...1c.1.3.psy-ab.r04x1bCEAYs&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&bvm=bv.42553238,d.aWM&fp=cf0397cee14d861e&biw=1280&bih=632

I THINK Gates offers a 'racing' TB but, I have no idea what qualities it may have over a regular belt. anyone?

it's a nice article with drawins and easy/succinct explanation of how 2-3 most common types of 'O2 - A/F sensors' work.

wouldn't any 5spd with a front diff ratio matching your present rear diff work? otherwise, get the rear diff or prepare to get inside the front diff to swap some parts. That said, i think in 06 (like my WRX) the 5spds got a little better 1st gear synchronizer set-up. dunno if there were other changes. if your project will involve newer turbo engines, you might investigate TGV deletes and secondary air (aircut) valve deletes/block-off plates. Not strictly necessary, but if you plan to do 'deep wrenching' may as well take the opportunity for the mods.

if those are the normal copper plugs, they may be worn.

first thought, maybe a bad rad cap but, more info on the car would be helpful.

make certain the inner joint's splines are pushed into the diff all the way.

an 8 year old car could have coolant leaking from anywhere. But, it seems most likely your leak is from someplace above/inline with the exhaust. maybe a coolant system pressure test would pinpoint it. If not, suspect a headgasket leak but only at operating temp?

after it's warmed up, have you looked under the hood for spraying or drips? Are you keeping an eye on coolant levels? How's the level in the overflow reservoir?

as for model, if you will really be on not-so-great gravel/dirt roads and need xtra clearance, the Forester and the Outback (I dunno when the last OBS was made?) come with a little extra factory lift. Otherwise, there are plenty of folks that lift the vehicles themselves with aftermarket mods. sorry, I did forget about the 2.2 engine - it enjoys a reputation of being bulletproof.

unless repaired/upgraded to multilayer steel type headgaskets, mid/late 90s model non-turbo 4 cylinders have known HG failures. Not every single one, but enough to be untrustworthy. Later cars cna have external weeping.leaks of coolant and maybe oil. while soobs have their own quirks, they are MUCH easier to wrench on than FWD, transverse engine cars. as with any used car, present condition and prior care mean more than brand reliability. Definitely learn to watch for 'torque bind' . Can be a s simple as a wrong sized tire, but can also mean destroyed wet clutch pack or bad Duty Solenoid C in transmission. The H6 engines have a great reputation in general. don't expect blinding acceleration or stellar fuel mileage. there are plenty of 200 and 300K miles soobs around. if you have questions about a specific problem or system on the cars, do search for info. Also, there are DIY guides here for many repairs.

sure seems like an intermittent CA sensor. secondary possibility; when you feel it won't start, you could try the 'clear flood' maneuver. Crank with the gas pedal on the floor. If an injector is leaking and flooding a cylinder, that should clear the fuel out.

those ARE really nice, you may not be able to discern it, but they are heavily textured so you can really grip them!

I recall several years ago Subaru abandoned another brand for having leaking crimps. Maybe it was Mobil or Purolator, not sure. I wish they would've just stayed with the Roki filters.

It may be helpful but often, a better solution to upgrading brakes, is to run stickier tires. Tires stop the car, brakes just stop the wheels from turning. a few folks have found a master cylinder brace to be helpful. Mostly to reduce any 'spongy' feeling. also, what pads do you use? There are vast differences in pad performance. OEM is good stuff, but, for similar money, you could get performance pads like StopTech Street Performance.

Is the CEL on? have the ECU scanned and post the codes. if it seems temp related, could be the crank angle sensor is bad. If you mean it won't re-start when cold after running for a few seconds, that is common to many soobs and some other cars. The car is likely flooded. the next time it won't restart, try holding the gas pedal on the floor while cranking. If it's flooded, that should clear the excess fuel.