1 Lucky Texan

what if the Forry were equipped with Traxx;

me likey! or a Hummer

even if 'typical' publishing is a bust, easy enough to upload to Amazon or other e-reader sites. Then just get the word out and hope for buzz and downloads. Heck, if it features a Subaru, there are 3-4 Forums of people that might download it! may I suggest a small donation to the website? hope it's a very successful book - let us know when it's available.

might be able to block one front wheel with the donut spare and the other front wheel with the scissor jack. Might be able to purposely reverse partially down the ditch on the opposite side of the road, then stretch the cable across to attach to the stuck vehicle - basically using gravity and an odd but favorable angle to reduce the chance the Forry would slide. guess the scenario might also incude the Forry being equipped with all terrain tires since it appears to be using a rural dirt/gravel road. Perhaps the Forry is on this or similar roads all the time and is prepared to use this winch in these conditions? Not unreasonable to not even need the winch - just a tow strap. still, fun idea!

OK, I admit I may have been a little overly excited. I cleared the codes after limping in to work this morning. When i started the car to leave, no CEL and it drove normally! So, this tells me that the motors eithe rwork or are intermittent, and also that 'perhaps' the valves were stuck due to some gummy reidue that was stickier thos morning at 84 degrees than this afternoon at - maybe - 100degs under the hood. Kinda surprised but also happy the code hasn't returned. so, I purchased a can of Seafoam and put it in during a fill-up. Then, I drove a few miles before parking it as usual. My hope is, enough deposits may be cleaned by the additive such that I won't need to do the 'fog the neighborhood for mosquitoes' trick. I may not have been very focused/calm about this and was evidently premature to be in any panic over it. - got 2-3 personal 'dramas' going on right now and really don't need car trouble.

OK thanx I will report back after w'ever I do. I have to get something done for it this weekend. ugh

got diagram or pic?

so, a vacuum line T and extra hose might be all I need?

well, I have drive-by-wire but, I suppose i can get a helper or, as you allude, maybe I can 'sip' the cleaner slowly enough to not stall the engine untill I've gotten a fair amount into the intake. if this solvent/cleaner trick doesn't work, I've already checked out a TGV delete kit from KSTech. And, since there would be major (for me) disassembly anyway, I'd probably also get the block-off plates for my non-functioning air cut valves too. Already had to remove those DTCs last year. Just left the valves and air pump in place since the valves were stuck closed. Probably take the opportunity to do some other stuff too. Silicone hoses and uppipe and....and....and.... ha!

never tried the seafoam. (I have read about folks using it) Decades ago, I've used berryman's B12 chemtool on carburetor cars. I suppose even with my WRX, I would use the brake booster line????

some brief searching seems to point to a problem with the tumble generator valves. A lot of folks seem to delete these but, it looks like major disassembly. i dunno, I may have to find a local mech to help me with this one.

Yep. my OBDII scanner gets used by other people more than on my own cars, but, this morning, I put it in my car to help a coworker - and my car throws codes and runs like cr@p! P2012, P2007 P2006 - and I don't think I'm getting any boost (don't have a boost gauge) sigh

will abs be OK in a gas tank? many folks are having to buy used - no telling how many folks were sold new - fuel pump assemblies, just to get a cap that ,with an o-ring, seals a chamber on fuel pumps. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134056 http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/41182-symptoms-fuel-pump-o-ring-problem.html

thanx, I never knew it was those underbody ones.

I thought the airbag deal was folks driving around with the towhook screwed in through the access port in the bumper? not the 'sling points' w'ever under the car.

if you plan to get/borrow a new scanner, get one that can read the fuel trim data.

an EMPI axle might be an option for you.(rockauto, amazon) about $10 more than a rebuilt - but they are new and properly heat treated. They also come with a new pin and axle nut. No problems with the one I put on the wife's outback. Other good options, rebuilding yours or a junkyard unit, MWE rebuilt soob axles, maybe Raxles, soob dealers supposedly get good rebuilts. Enough people report problems with typical rebuilts from AutoZone, Oreilly's etc. that they should be avoided I think. It's a good time for new struts too if you think yours are worn. An impact driver will help a lot.

I suppose it's 'possible' the suspension/steering gear could have received more shock than if the tires were a little softer. might never know. They definitely would transmit 'NVH' (noise, vibration,harshness) more at 40 than at 30. A lot of people run their tires 10-15% over so, 40 isn't 'crazy' high. I usually set mine about 3 psi over, figuring they'll be low for a awhile before i check them again. If you really do consistently run tires at 40, handling might suffer a little, and they will wear in the middle faster than the shoulders.

good post - even rebound may have busted one of those 3 little studs too.

seems like crawling through potholes would put some stress on the front anti-sway bar and it's endlinks and brackets - definitely check that system out carefully. basically, all the suspension and steering needs to be examined.

I'm no expert on the exact symptoms, but some folks have had a bad 'rpm sensor' in the a/c compressor on some outbacks - problem is, I THINK it's older models than yours - not sure. it just seems that compressor load on the engine through the belt is the most likely source of the problem. How does the a/c work idling? Is it blowing cold with no weird noises or problems? try searching on rpm sensor and a/c and see what turns up. not much help I know, maybe someone else will have an idea.

On an aircraft, I'm going to suggest you check the manufacturer's website or consult other experts. Also, I'm not sure re-installing the old plugs with the now-crushed original washers is 'advisable'. more on plugs (keep in mind, the beginning of the thread is from 2004); http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=518633&highlight=sticky+spark+plugs

that doesn't 'seem' unreasonable - maybe someone else will have some ideas. was there a wreck, modification or any work done to the car before this symptom appeared?

when you're idling (clutch in or neutral), if you cycle the a/c on-off, how much, if any, does the RPM change?