1 Lucky Texan

that was kinda weird - it wasn't just bank 2 IIRC. I briefly considered taking them out and gapping them differently but, really, I just don't want to perform another experiment. If I had a spare car or more time, or maybe was better equipped....but, for the effort and 44 bucks, I'll just put in the proper plugs. Then, if i still get weird codes, I'll have eliminated a big unknown and can proceed normally with diagnosis. The only other thing changed was the PCV valve. Just can't see anyway it could create a condition causing the ECU to make big swings in fuel trim. no one to blame but myself - still, less money than what a mechanic or dealership would have charged.

well, there HAVE been issues. twice, the CEL has come on. The first time was some misfire codes and a 'small vacuum leak code' (can't recall the code.) This was with a strange driver, within about 20 miles of a fuel fill-up. The car has had a coupla instance of spurious CELs before so, I tightened the gas cap and cleared the codes. Weeks go by and it set the CEL again. Misfire codes. This time, i also checked the FF data and bank 2 is being driven lean by the ECU. STFT is -6 and LTFT is -12. I'd LOVE to be convinced this is an O2 sensor problem or ??? but I just can't believe it isn't related to the 'European' plugs (NOW I've learned what those little flags are next to parts at RockAuto! ) It's gonna cost me another 45 bucks and probably a day under the car, but I've ordered the correct plugs and intend to swap them in, not sure when. ******NGK Part # 6619 {#LFR6AIX11} Iridium IX; 0.43 Gap .044 ****** It runs smooth, but it seems the mileage is poor. I don't drive it regularly so, can't be sure the last trip meter was reset. It DID seem to lack a little oomph once recently when I floored on the highway, otherwise, performance is good. maybe bank 2 has poor combustion and the O2 sensors on that side are picking up hydrocarbons and the ECU is leaning it out???? I feel stupid, but, if someone can learn from my mistake, it's OK with me.

off topic, mostly, but, I think there could be a market for the cap that goes on the bottom of Legacy fuel pumps in the 2000-2004 year range (I think) if it could be modeled and made. Folks are paying $50 for used pumps on ebay just to get that cap. maybe some could be made in delrin or ???? it's happening a lot - mostly to the H6es. No telling how many folks have been sold $300 or more FP assemblies just because that cap failed. check here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/45273-does-2003-outback-h6-fuel-pump-prime-when-key-os-turned.html http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/41182-symptoms-fuel-pump-o-ring-problem.html

I use LOTS of improper language while I'm actually working on my cars. when I had young children, on a weekend you might hear my wife; "Kids, better come in now, your daddy's gonna change a starter on the van!" I love me some ivan's posts - I always learn something. I had no idea there would be more than one oil pressure regulator on a motor.

caps and punctuation? who ARE you and what did you do with Ivan!

dunno how many fuses are involved or where they'r located. But, you need to hear the relay click so, once you've tried a different relay(the coil could be bad) it's time to trace the circuit (wiring/fuses) from the switch. If the relay is switching and the contacts aren't burned off (try a different relay) then the circuit from there to the back , as well as the ground for the defroster (this could be in the harness that gets flexed so much from the hatch to the body - might be a bad wire???) , all needs to be traced out. There are repair kits for cuts in the defroster traces themselves, if that is part of the problem.

maybe not a huge amount of vibration, I suspect the crank will snap - but either way, it will be glorious all the way to the point of catastrophic failure!

bump - anybody know what other vehicles can use 06 WRX wagon springs as an upgrade?

have your shop check the pulleys and tensioner for the serpentine belt. But yeah, many people do report vibration from rebuilt axles. What was wrong with the power steering?

nothing wrong with doing an alignment, hope it helps. maybe double check lugnuts and other stuff. Could also be you got a little air in the PS system and it needs a little time to work its way out, dunno - just seems weird. When the car comes back from alignment, get back here if the problem persists. I might not be much help, but someone probably will!

is it a 'jerkiness' or a vibration? seems like any alignment problem (toe) would be undetectable at low speed turns. But, if it didn't do it before the work....

I could see a TPS possibly doing this. (i'd def. check any linkage too.) (also, spotted 2 ? marks in ivan's post - what do I win?)

Early on after i got my car(06 WRX Sportwagon.), I swapped the stock springs for wagon-spec SPT springs. Dunno about fitment, but I still have all 4 springs in my attic. less than 1800 miles on them. I'd like to sell them.

so they just have a channel cast in that half of the block. Interesting.

it isn't clear from the OP what was intended so, yeah, maybe you could make it work that way too. I just went to the first arrangement that seemed like adjusting a cam would let a couple of cylinders be at compression at the same time. But, now, it seems either way requires custom cam(s).

that rag soaking thing does seem familiar. The only test you can find on the 'net was for PB Blaster, Kroil and other off-the-shelf penetrants, but in that test, the best was 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF fluid (dexron III I guess) - have to shake it up before use. still, may not work for this severe rusting. As for heat, I'm sure the knuckle gets plenty hot in normal use - but excess heat could definitely be an issue. If you could keep it localized - then flood with cool/cold water......thermal shock might be helpful.

yeah, I'd say check the battery cables/grounds first, then I might suspect the replacement alternator.

I've never handled these parts - but it kinda looks like the oil pressure relief valve may dump oil through there back into the pan. just a guess

wow - yeah, hope all that work is fruitful.

no problem, it was right there in my home 'office'. I bought it over a year ago from RockAuto. Haven't decided to use it yet, but it was gonna be a maintenance replacement anyway - both cars are working well at present.

shards sounds bad, but a 1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon of 'filings' is likely normal. Doesn't mean a chunk isn't lying in the bottom.... Search for the term 'torque bind'. If you have mismatched tires, or certain types of failures associated with the center diff (MT) or 'wet clutch pack' in an auto-tranny - you can get that 'jerkiness' when maneuvering tightly in a parking lot. One or 2 other issues can be similar. more info about the car, what tranny, the tires etc. might help someone suggest the next step.

OK, mine differs from yours in only 2 ways that I can tell, the box says made in japan (in 3 languages like yours) and the 78*C marking is on the other side of the 'tickler'. mine even has that offset dimple in the brass on the bottom of the 'wax filled slug' or w'ever. same construction and shape.

I'll try to take a look at mine later tonight.

got any pics of your boats?

I read of a guy that had breather/PCV hoses misrouted and actually heard gurgling noises from the dipstick tube! Also, could a crack or pinhole in the pick-up tube allow air to be sucked in?