1 Lucky Texan

I'll try to take a look at mine later tonight.

got any pics of your boats?

I read of a guy that had breather/PCV hoses misrouted and actually heard gurgling noises from the dipstick tube! Also, could a crack or pinhole in the pick-up tube allow air to be sucked in?

seems like cars of that vintage had crank angle sensors that would fail intermittently or when they got hot. dunno why it wouldn't throw a code. has the fuel filter been changed? Are the coils/plugwires in good shape?

if it's a MT, get a coupla buddies and push start the car. At least you'd know the problem is only in the starting circuit.

how much heat could you put on it before compromising grease/rubber on the good parts? Try heating it, then pouring some cold water on it. Also, try TIGHTENING it very slightly before backing it out. (maybe set a torque wrench to 5-10% OVER suggested torque and tighten it) I dunno - good luck.

does...gulp....does it have rear LSD?

anyone come up with a way to make the cams 'mirror images' of each other?

maybe these guys can help; http://boxeer.com/

I dunno, seems to me, this is a problem with the 3rd party warranty - no surprise there. yeah, maybe a lawyer is a good way to go. usually, if you have a warranty issue with Subaru (directly) you get (and should TAKE) a loaner/free rental car while the work is being done. They will NOT drag their feet for 3 months if they are paying for your rental.

Dunno if the TSB for that extends to 2011 models - but, IF it does, and IF the paperwork for the original repair does not mention cleaning/servicing that banjo screen - that could look good in court.(for the plaintiff)

why didn't you take it back to a dealership the second time?

ivan, you feeling OK? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I noticed you used a period.

I see no reason the filter clogged with glass media, along with pics and any paperwork from another shop wouldn't be good enough for a Judge. perhaps with a print-out fro wikipedia or ehow, etc. explaining the bypass valve function. The other problem with using vacuum is, it maxes out at a little over 14 psi. that wouldn't open an OEM filter's bypass valve(25 psi IIRC ?). sending an oil sample to Blackstone labs for a report would also look good in court. You might get some relief in SCC, or from the shop by the threat of a suit, but , be prepared for disappointment. good luck

it's a joke. (you see, I didn't list an age at all) Someone here probably has a crank sitting around. Should be easy enough to check, even if roughly with a drill bit. maybe you could use some compressed air - from a coupla different 'directions' to move the obstruction through, or 'reverse' of normal oil flow. - though, if you KNOW where it is now, having it shift to an unknown spot might be bad. You sure a bearing hasn't spun a little and is blocking some flow somewhere? Are the beads glass or ceramic? A hole may not create the same drag as a 'passage' so, might not be a helpful data point.

a 13 year-old that can ask that sophisticated of a question doesn't need our help.

by chance, is it OK when you're moving, then get warm when you stop at a light? Could be the rad fan if so.

I'm going to monitor this for others replies but, I'd think garaged for 3 months has a great chance of being just fine. I'd expect extended cranking so, make sure the battery is charged. A product like HEET might help if you felt there was some moisture in the system. maybe after it starts, take it to the station, put in a bottle of Techron, fill and drive. Then , perhaps, an oil change, or change the filter and top off with oil - though it seems like it gets fresh oil fairly often!

wow, wish I had known of jack covers.

somewhere I have a diagram that shows some other spots on a STI for jacks, but I have always used the jacking points on my 2 soobs Depending on the design of the top of the jacks, I've read of people using hockey pucks to help prevent the 'ears' on the jacls from denting the rails. Dunno if that's a problem or not. I tried using some pieces of hardwood for a while, but have now given up and have some small dents from the jacks. hockey pucks are not common here.

what brand replacement did you get? wondering if a different brand would have the slot. I have never done any rack work and am having trouble visualizing how this went, but it sounds like you did pretty well overall so, congrats!.

good point, even the pads wear the rotors down.

I read of a test of 'penetrating fluids' once and a 50.50 mix of acetone and ATF fluid (I'm guessing Dexron III or similar) worked better than Kroil or PB Blaster or some other brands. I think you have to shake it up before use. i wouldn't get it near any paint or plastic I cared about though. fyi

is there a way to use the following technique?

maybe there's some kinda RTV or hondabond that could work there?