1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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if you stay with the Otto cycle, that thing is gonna lope like a Harley. potato,potato,potato,potato,potato -
hmmm....maybe fill-in between alternate lugs behind the crank sprocket to get half the crank angle sensor pulses????? easier if it runs 2 cycle? I dunno - lol! proably harder to dream up ways to fool the existing ECU than to build something from scratch to run it. Easier with an older engine with a distributor and SPFI probably. might need a heavier flywheel or a true harmonic balancer up front..... thinking about this dained my bramage. lol! weird
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maybe more than you want to spend - but KYB is the 'go to' brand for most folks. check prices at RockAuto. about $125 a pair. dunno about gabriel, but folks do NOT seem to like Monroe. as for alignment, if the tires are not worn unevenly and you have no other issues, just mark the position of the alignment bolt when and put it back the same way when you install th enew struts. likely you will be close enough. Of course, you could still spring for an alignment after a coupla more paychecks. there are DIY alignment instructions and maybe videos online too.
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I'd think, at this point, a clean well-crimped 'butt splice' - maybe smeared with some dielectric grease afterwards and tucked out of the way, will be way ahead of the performance of the old corroded cable set. maybe not 'like new' but , for $15, it should freshen everything up fairly well. You might find a youtube video example of what you're doing. Be careful working over,around or near the battery. best to do as much as possible away from it and don't get 'casual' swinging wrenches or screwdrivers around next to it.
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Since there has been transmission work and axle work (dunno which was done more recently but might not matter for this suggestion) one thing to confirm is that the stub axles are fully seated. Plus, make certain the axle nut(s) are not loose. As well as the lugnuts. many people complain of problems with the typical rebuit axles from retail auto parts stores so - would not be surprising that one is failing and a clicking noise when turning is a classic symptom of that. Almost any of the above problems might cause some wheel shimmy on deceleration. If you downshift and engine brake, is there any shimmy or vibration? How about reversing and braking? If the car still stops reliably, I'd work on this clunking first. Then the brakes if they're still exhibiting a problem.
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These 2 Okies were watching the Fort Worth Stock Show parade and one of the horses turned its head way around and and started licking between its legs. the first Okie said to his friend; "MAN, don't you wish you could do that!" the second Okie said; "SURE! - but I'm afraid he'll kick me."
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sometimes folks report similar symptoms from bad u-joints. using the FWD fuse will help diagnose things.
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one way to get occasional oil into the combustion chambers might be incorrectly routed breather and PCV hoses, since your had an engine swap, might be worth triple checking that stuff. Don't assume, actually check the routing. maybe look for oil in the throttle body?
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Only 1 hp - but how much torque?
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any update?
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That scooter belonged to the guy far right, I'm on the far left with the BP rifle. Your horse looks awesome, like it's built for tight maneuvering. lol! I haven't ridden in quite a while, last time was OK, shoulda rented for the hour ride instead of 90 minutes - definitely felt it getting back on the ground!
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that does seem disappointing. H4 or H6? Wonder if oil pressure was low or other problem?????? sucks but, you're doing the right thing if you otherwise like the car.
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All 4? If not, then that could be the source of the torque bind. Or were the previous tires mixed sizes or brand? Tire circumference 'should' be less than 1/4" or so difference. basically, same brand and wear level (and proper inflation) tires all around.
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could be air being sucked into the power steering system, or other PS problem. While idling, look in the PS reservoir tank for bubbles or foam. There should be none, maybe a little flow/movement ,but no bubbles. any work done recently on the car?
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can you hear it idling with the hood up? maybe a waterpump or alt. bearing is going bad. is it a buzzing sound? that could be heat shields. Looks like you might be due for a TB change too. Look for rubbing inside the covers, maybe the TB belt is flopping around from a weak TB tensioner?
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that filter may be a dry-flow that is washable, or it's disposable. If it is SPT and not an AEM or K&N replacement media, it's about $40-$50 to replace. I don't think it's oiled. At least, not supposed to be cleaned and re-oiled. A new one may have some kinda 'treatment' on it. not certain though.
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what brand of epoxy?
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great story:headbang:
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there are many threads and many different opinions/experiences across the 3 forums I keep up with about axles. do a search for axle threads The only consistent trend you find from reading is that, typical rebuilds from local parts stores seem to be the riskiest for exhibiting problems for people.
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have you had the wheel off? maybe you have a cracked wheel stud?
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swap axles left-to-right.
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The Awesome Vehicle Picture Thread
1 Lucky Texan replied to TheLoyale's topic in Non Soob Cars and Bikes Discussion
I threw up in my mouth a little; http://www.worldstarhiphop.com/videos/video.php?v=wshhdTNH1nvOoE762IU4 -
next cold start opportunity, cycle the key to ON (not start) wait 3 seconds, cycle OFF/ON a couple more times, THEN start. If it starts and seems to run better, you're losing fuel pressure. If same symptoms - well, fuel pump and circuit is OK!
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that's near the point in time when some weight/force from 'nosedive' might be vectored back onto the rear suspension so, I'm wondering if bouncing the car up and down in the rear might duplicate the problem? does seem like a bushing or something similar
